Need advice, 22RE timing cover

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flash02

flash02

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Threads
67
Messages
588
Location
Elizabeth City, NC
So I've developed a real bad oil leek, it is seeping from where the timing cover seals to the block, lower passenger side of the engine at the point where the oil pump ports fluid to the engine. Somehow I managed to screw up the gasket install when I put the engine together. I would like to get a consensus of how I should repair this; one way would be to remove the head and start from there, the other would be to leave the head installed and remove/slide the timing cover off the engine.

Process would be;
Drain coolant
Remove radiator
Remove front pulley off of crank
Remove oil pump
Remove all accessories
Valve cover off, dizzy a and dizzy gear removed from cam
Remove infamous hidden bolt
remove timing cover hardware
Remove and loosen oil pan hardware
Gently remove/slide timing cover forward off the engine block

I do have all the necessary gaskets, I want to start this ASAP as this leek is VERY bad, I'm loosing about a half quart a week, yes I did try and tighten hardware, no it is NOT an oil pan leek.

Thoughts.....anyone????
 
bummer. Looks like you have a good plan of attack.
I just put my timing cover back on with the felt/paper gasket and a super thin bead of Black on the block side to hold the gaskets in place.
I took the head off and it was still a PITA to remove the timing cover.
 
I just put a cover on mine yesterday, although I have the advantage that my engine is out and on a stand. Head is on, but my oil pan isn't. It's a very tight pinch getting the cover removed and installed between both the head and the pan. I doubt the front part of the headgasket will survive.

Something I did: I had the head on and the nuts installed on the studs (I have ARP head studs), but not tight. I only had the middle pair "snug" tight, the rest were loose. This let me install the timing sprockets and chain, then the tensioner. I used Permatex "High Tack Gasket Sealant" in a few spots to hold the cover gaskets in place. Then I was able to get the cover on, with a dab of RTV at the top corners. After the cover was torqued, I torqued down the head.

So, I think it would help if you loosened all the head bolts, go 1/4 turn at a time to gradually relax the bolts. Leave the center pair snug enough so the head and gasket can't move. Then hammer a thin blade thru the FIPG on the pan. You might be able to get the cover off with minimal trauma this way.
 
Thanks guys, the more I thought about it I figured that loosing or removing the head was going to be necessary, up side is I have all the gaskets that I might need....even the head gasket. Pffffff, this S U C K S ! Soooo guess what I am doing tomorrow after work?
 
I would do it right and take off the head. I have done a few timing chains without taking off the head and just loosing the oil pan...the head gasket never survives. It's just too tight in there.

In my view, it's an additional couple of hours to get the job done right. I would leave the intake and exhaust manifold on...it heavy, but can be done.
 
Just did mine and kept the head and pan installed. Didn't use gaskets, but did use Toyota FIPG - used about 1/2 a tube and it has been great.
 
jtaco1 said:
Just did mine and kept the head and pan installed. Didn't use gaskets, but did use Toyota FIPG - used about 1/2 a tube and it has been great.
Click to expand...

Yeah I just got mine off today, all and all it went very smooth, i did not remove the head or pan. Normally I use the permatex ultra gray but have been thinking about the FPIG for this project, I DON'T want to have to do this again.
 
All done, no more leaks, I removed the timing cover without removing the Head or Oil pan, I did spring for the Toyota FIPG sealant, I have to say it is not much different then the Permatex Ultra Gray. No leaks after a 450 mile round trip last weekend. My recommendations would be as follows; spend the money and buy the correct gaskets for the timing cover as well as a new oil pump O ring and water pump gasket and use FIPG or Permatex Ultra Gray on both sides of the gasket, STAY away from any and all RTV, clean all mating surfaces to ensure a good sealing surface. I can't stress enough to NOT use RTV, if RTV was that good all auto manufactures would use it, most times it just gushes out, making a mess and or clogging water and oil passageways.

FIPG was $14.00 and changes at my local Toyota dealership, Permatex Ultra Gray is a bit cheaper, around $10.00 for a larger tube. Either FIPG or the Permatex can be used for all sealing requirements called out in the FSM, most importantly the sealing of a NON gasket type oil pan.

Perhaps this could be used as a tech wright-up in the FAQ section, I'm sure this was easier on my engine as it was just rebuilt about 12 months ago.
 
Something I've always wondered: what is the actual difference between RTV and FIPG? A Google search only turns up opinions, no real science.

I never use RTV or FIPG on those gaskets, except a tiny bit at the top, where it says to in the FSM, and I've always just used a dab of RTV, usually Ultra Black. As I posted above, I did use some gasket tack this time to hold the gasket alignment, and on the block side only. I've never had a cover leak. I believe leaks are often caused by insufficient prep of the mating surfaces, I always give them a final polish with a 3M biscuit in a die grinder, then a quick wipe down with brake clean.

Over or under torquing the cover bolts will warp or distort the cover and also cause leaks. I typically check the cover for flatness with my machinist's straightedge, just to be sure.

These are just my experiences, not absolutes. A lot of this type of thing is based on personal preference, so if it works for you, go for it.
 
KLF said:
Something I've always wondered: what is the actual difference between RTV and FIPG? A Google search only turns up opinions, no real science.

I never use RTV or FIPG on those gaskets, except a tiny bit at the top, where it says to in the FSM, and I've always just used a dab of RTV, usually Ultra Black. As I posted above, I did use some gasket tack this time to hold the gasket alignment, and on the block side only. I've never had a cover leak. I believe leaks are often caused by insufficient prep of the mating surfaces, I always give them a final polish with a 3M biscuit in a die grinder, then a quick wipe down with brake clean.

Over or under torquing the cover bolts will warp or distort the cover and also cause leaks. I typically check the cover for flatness with my machinist's straightedge, just to be sure.

These are just my experiences, not absolutes. A lot of this type of thing is based on personal preference, so if it works for you, go for it.
Click to expand...

I always use the permitex (orange colored stuff) to coat both mating surfaces with a very thin film to help the gasket stay in place. I also use a bead where all seams or components meet like the FSM states. The orange color also makes it easy to see where you have applied it and if too much or too little was used. just my .02. and of course all of the above stated.
 
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