Need a good 24 to 12 Volt converter

[HZJ60 Guy]

I need a good powerful 24 to 12 volt converter. So far the most powerful Ive found is an Australian unit. It's 50 amp continuous. Has anyone found a more powerful unit? Im interested in connecting a stereo, driving lights, air compressor etc etc etc. That's why Id like a powerful unit.

http://www.warningsystems.com.au/voltage_reducers.htm

 

[Zekester]

What are you going to supply it with? 30 amps/24v? that will be your limiting factor...try googling samlex america...they have a wide range...

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

What are you going to supply it with? 30 amps/24v? that will be your limiting factor...try googling samlex america...they have a wide range...

My truck has a 24 volt system. I guess Im going to supply it with that....

Thanks.

 

[Greg_B]

My truck has a 24 volt system. I guess Im going to supply it with that.... Thanks.

Ya, cept the alternator is at most 35amps at 24V...but is more likely 30amps at 24V. Which translates to 60amp@12V. So, you suck up all the juice your alt is giving...which leaves what for your wipers, heater motor, headlights, and all the other 24V stuff that needs power?

I recommend to people with 24V trucks to calculate your trucks max needs at 24V in the worst case scario (middle of winter, cold, raining, night), and minus that from your alt output. What's left over is what you can safely use for 12V stuff, and is what sized converter you should get.

Keep your 12V needs moderate and if you want/need more, look to a 3rd battery, additional 12v alt system, or some such animal.

Seeing as you have an HZ, and no vac pump off the rear to limit your search...

hth's

gb

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Well then what converter would you suggest Greg?

Are there more powerful 24V alternators that I can get like there are 12V alternators?


TB

 

[maximBJ70]

I think what he means is, maybe you don't "need" all the 12volt accessories. It is definitely not a wise decision to run that many electrical devices off your cruiser. I'd say limit your 12volt needs to a 150Watts. That's safe, anything beyond this and, well bad things can happen.

 

[Greg_B]

Well then what converter would you suggest Greg? Are there more powerful 24V alternators that I can get like there are 12V alternators? TB

If you intend to have that many 12V things, drawing that much, I do not suggest a converter at all.

hth's

gb

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

If you intend to have that many 12V things, drawing that much, I do not suggest a converter at all.

hth's

gb

Well how the heck would that work? I cant run 12V stuff off of that 24V system....

 

[iron_giant]

How about an isolated deep cycle battery so you can draw what you need, charged by a converter and charge controller? The charge would be limited by the charge controller (of desired amperage) so the battery would never draw more than your alternator can put out. I can't imagine you'd be drawing 50 amps all the time so the deep cycle can charge when you're not drawing over the charge controller's limits. Hook the converter via a relay to the switch or the alternator and you'll never draw from the starting batteries when they are not being charged by the alternator.

 

[eleblanc]

I use a 40 amp ICT good for 31 amp continuous and 40 amp peak
http://www.ict-power.com/product05-display.asp?ID=136

It is setup to provide full time current and using 2x 50 Amp bosch relays, i have separate 12V supply on the accessorie ignition and 12V on the "on" position. So basicly i have 12V and 24V on any ignition position. here is what i run.

- Viair 12V 400C compressor (29amp at 100 psi) c/w pressure switch (ignition "on")
- Pioneer radio, 2x 4 inch and 2x 6x9 in the rear (Full time current and ignition accessories)
- 2x lockers relays (ignition accessories) anoying that the lockers would disengage each time i shut the engine
- 2x lockers switch with light (ignition accessories)
- 1x tank pressure gauge light (Ignition accessories)
- 2x 12v fog light (ignition "on")
- 1x CB radio 75 wx st (Ignition accessories)
- 1x 12v 40w wired portable lamp (Ignition accessories)
- 1x 3 cig lighter plug i use to hook my cell phone and GPS on. (Ignition accessories)

I'm probably missing one or two

I have this setup since mid last summer, relays were installed this winter. everything listed above have been tested together, except the fog light while the compressor was filling the tank.

No issue to report.

I can't think of anything i would want to add, maybe a electric cooler.!

I probably don't i use more then 10 amp continuously, it peaks near 40 tho a few seconds when it start to fill the tank to 110 psi. i beleive i use the 85 to 105 psi switch, i'd say it take about 15 seconds.

 

[Greg_B]

It is setup to provide full time current and using 2x 50 Amp bosch relays, i have separate 12V supply on the accessorie ignition and 12V on the "on" position. So basicly i have 12V and 24V on any ignition position. here is what i run.

I would and have run some of the things you mention. Sounds like you are aware of what it on and how to manage. That is good.

With my converter (20amps) I have it go to load balance when in run position (via relay), and in strict convert when off. My stereo (much the same as yours), CB, inverter for a lap-top and battery charger for camera, etc, boost/pyro gauge, cell charger, Sirius sat radio, 12V Extreme Aire compressor, ARB fridge/freezer all were going off my system continuously and/or at one time or another for the trip to/during and from ACT 2006. No issues. I am not talking about managing a system which has moderate draws, and managing what is and what is not on at the same time...

When I start hearing about driving lights, big stereo, mega draws, and no comment to managing the system I get worried. I personally would not want to run fog lights either off a converter...but to each their own. I would rather keep as much 24V as possible (due to it's better cold weather features, and keeping the vehicle consistant) and only use 12V fed from a converter for the little stuff.

The point being made to Tom is to figure his total needs at 24V in his worst case scario. What is left over is what he has left to work with and to be managed.

Or, go to a seperate system: 3rd battery via a charge controller, install a 2nd alternator, or find another alternator which puts out more.

hth's

gb

 

[canucksafari]

If you really need more 12V juice, how about a second 12 V alternator and a third battery? I know this is a common fix on the the patrols/safaris for all the extra juice needs. I just don't know if you have a spot to mount an extra alternator. Another option is to order a high output 24V alternator. Install it and if this doesn't meet your needs also install a belt driven compressor. There was a thread on ubrew onboard air a while ago.

 

[eleblanc]

I personally would not want to run fog lights either off a converter...but to each their own.

Yeah that is the only thing i don't like about my setup, but i have not other alternative for the fog lights.

Also i have to find a small leak in my air setup, i go from 105 to 80 in a bout one hour. It is not the lockers, its a fitting somewhere.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Im glad Im getting good advice here. I just cant get my head around understanding what Greg is talking about... Im not an "electrics" guy. I undertand the management issues, but Im having trouble with the math. Greg is running mostly what I want to run. Extremeaire compressor. Light stereo system, CB, etc etc etc. Are there high output 24V alternators out there? I have an ARB refridgerator as well.


Tom

 

[The Dude]

I am running a 20amp unit with a third deep cycle blue top. So far the system works great. I run a CB, stereo, two inverters (one big one small) , and a couple 12V power points for a fan and a light.

I am also using a charge regulator for the third battery. I bought a 20amp unit with LED diagnostics on it that was origanally intended to be used with solar panels charging batteries.

It works great.

On a side note, my cell phones (Motorola razr and E815)get charged off the 24V system, and does my garmin GPS

I also have switched and constant power. I have been running this system for over a year with no issues. I can try and find a wiring diagram (or make one) if you are interested.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Any help would be appreciated Dude. Where did you put the third battery?

Tom

 

[The Dude]

I built a drawer system for the back and house it on the left side of the truck. The inverter is under the hood. I know I drew a schematic for it but I can't find it. I will draw something up in paint tonight and post it up.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Looks great Dude. Is there a problem having the battery so far from the power source? That would be a good battery for that kind of application. Thanks for the help.


Tom

 

[Stone]

Im interested in connecting a stereo, driving lights, air compressor etc etc etc. That's why Id like a powerful unit.

How about running a generic switch and a 24V relay to power your add-on lights and switching the bulbs inside them to their 24V equivalents? You still have to remember your alternator output...but that puts less work on your converter, and your bulbs will last a lot longer.

24V air compressors are readily available...but those are used intermittently only anyway. And how often are you going to be running your compressor, cranking your stereo, and chatting on your CB all at the same time?

The third battery is a great option too, and will allow you to run your 12V without fooling with your battery bank that you need to depend on to start your truck to get you out of the bush.

 

[iron_giant]

Tom,
I am planning exactly what Dude has done. The advantage is that there is no limit on the draw of the battery, so if for a while you need a huge discharge, you can do so safely. Also, you can jump your starting system, at least one battery, if you ever need. I like the idea of having a totally isolated battery (or two!) for redundancy.