My windshield rust battle (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Threads
16
Messages
224
Location
Castle Rock, CO
So... yeah. Windshield channel rust and rust at the leading roof edge. Clearly the result of prior shoddy windshield installations.

it didn’t look great when the windshield came off, and I was worried at first. But as you can see, progress is being made.

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The plan is clean metal, etch, POR 15. Leading edge of roof will be done about 1.5 inches back with Monstaliner.
 
Oh and for the windshield trim install... I’m going to use threaded rivet nuts. This will allow me to seal the holes better than would be possible with traditional rivets.

if this works, nobody is ever going to do it the old way again.:cool:
 
01 Lx470. I got some major intrusion issues with some rust at the top of my windshield. you find a good place to get the factory glass ?
 
01 Lx470. I got some major intrusion issues with some rust at the top of my windshield. you find a good place to get the factory glass ?

Safelite is doing it.... with close supervision. The guy that came and pulled the glass demonstrated that he was pretty familiar with the LC, so he'll be coming back when I'm done with my work . They'll use whatever glass they usually use, I suppose. (full glass coverage w my insurance)
 
you can come help me with mine when you're done with yours :p

. I can see that the PO or dealerships tried to repair it with some bull**** that didn't work, hoping the top/side seam isn't bad.
 
Godspeed. You're on the right track. I went through that with the last truck, but trusted a shop to do the work and luckily they salvaged it.
 
you can come help me with mine when you're done with yours :p

. I can see that the PO or dealerships tried to repair it with some bulls*** that didn't work, hoping the top/side seam isn't bad.

yeah I think there's some rust converter already in a few areas... I don't know what that s*** does, but it's un-grindable with an 11 amp angle grinder and a wire wheel. Poly wheel doesn't even shine it. I suppose I could hit hit it with a solid grinding wheel and see what happens, but I don't want to cut through metal that seems really solid.
 
Had mine done about six months ago. It wasn't as bad as yours but I had to argue with the Safelite glass guy to use proper rivets instead of the screws. I even had to have him borrow the long-necked rivet tool from the body shop that was taking care of the rust and other stuff.
Before:
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After:
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doesn't it bond better with higher humidity though?

I think the end result is the same... it just takes a longer time with low humidity.

Yesterday's first coat was dry by this morning, and this morning's coat (applied at about 8 am) was mostly dry by about noon. Humidity is high (by Colorado standards) today. >50%
 
ok this sucks. The POR didn't play well with the masking tape so the edges are all jacked up. The POR in the windshield channel itself is great.

I guess I'll just be doing more Monstaliner than planned. I'm going to prime (2k epoxy) today on the leading edge of the roof (maybe 2 inches) and on 1/3 of the a-pillar.
 
ok this sucks. The POR didn't play well with the masking tape so the edges are all jacked up. The POR in the windshield channel itself is great.

I guess I'll just be doing more Monstaliner than planned. I'm going to prime (2k epoxy) today on the leading edge of the roof (maybe 2 inches) and on 1/3 of the a-pillar.
POR is more or less like Epoxy. You gotta remove the masking tape while it's still wet. Once it dries, you're F'd. I've used it here and there on a few projects and had some drip on our shop floor, it's probably been a good 3+ years and stuff is still on there like a rock.

Plastidip is the same way, if you're masking stuff, the tape needs to be pulled before it turns rubbery.
 
POR is more or less like Epoxy. You gotta remove the masking tape while it's still wet. Once it dries, you're F'd. I've used it here and there on a few projects and had some drip on our shop floor, it's probably been a good 3+ years and stuff is still on there like a rock.

Plastidip is the same way, if you're masking stuff, the tape needs to be pulled before it turns rubbery.

well the GOOD news is that once you've aggressively sanded/ground the paint on large parts of your vehicle, doing it again is no biggie.

so I'm going to poly wheel the POR edges on the a-pillar and then I'm going to use some of the Monstaliner primer (2 part epoxy) and get some matching touch up spray. Those pillars were chipped to hell anyway.
 
also, I got some OEM rivets yesterday... they fit pretty well even though I POR'ed the hole areas pretty liberally, so I might not nutsert that trim in place after all.
 

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