My wheel tire misadventure / Im gonna need help (1 Viewer)

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Jul 2, 2024
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Location
Atlanta GA
Ok I thought I knew what I needed to put some cool beefy tires on my stock gx. I read the forums and decided that a 17" ×9 rim and 265/70/17 tire would fit but I might have to trim fender which I was cool with. So ordered some rims off Amazon. Rocktrix 17×9 with -12 offset. Then ordered some tires on Walmart and had them shipped to store for install.

First mistake. Tires shipped with FedEx who decided to only send 3 of the 4. I know the dudes were laughing as they left one on the floor as the loaded their truck. So Walmart canceled the appt. Two days later the last tire came. But Walmart now says they won't put tires on new rims cuz they might scratch them. WTH!!!
That's OK. Mexican tire shop across the street had no problem slapping them on. They looked great!

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Now when I got the truck it came with 1.5" spacers on it. This thing looks tough and I love it but if I barely turn my wheel it's starts ripping the fender up! Ok I'm gonna go in there and cut the fender no problem.

So I cut it all out but it's still rubbing. Fuuug.

So then a guy tells me to pull the spacers off. I mean it sucks cuz it looks good but ok. I pull the spacers off and now I have a new problem. The dang studs that are under the spacer are tiny! This looks sketchy to me

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I now can turn the wheel but I'm afraid now that my wheels are gonna fly off from the studs being short. I have enough thread to crank down the lug nuts and go back across the street to the Mexican tire shop to ask if he can replace my studs with longer ones. Dude says he can't, I think he was just busy but says he will check it for me. He pops off a lug nut and is like. Ahh yeah your good man

I'm still not sure but if the Mexican tire dude says "send it" I'm not 100% sold. But I mean he does put tires on all day.

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Now to test out my clearance I drive around up and down my back yard turning the wheel full turns as I roll around . 95% of the time seemed good. But it seems to still be hitting a piece of the body that sticks out.

What are my options now? Cut this thing off and weld something on it? Will slapping billsteins on it work? Maybe a spacer?

Also can I leave the back sticking out? I haven't pulled spacers off the back yet cus I'm not sold on these short studs

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Looks like you are rubbing the pinch weld. Pull the wheels and tires off and grab a hammer and beat the snot out of the pinch welds until flat.
 
You should search before starting a new thread for every question.

Get extended thread/extended shank lug nuts.

Spacers increase scrub radius which increases rubbing in the front fenders. A lift might help decrease rubbing at static ride height, but if it rubs on stock suspension it will still rub with a lift when the suspension cycles. Looks like you need to hammer the pinch weld and do a body mount chop.
 
You should search before starting a new thread for every question.

Get extended thread/extended shank lug nuts.

Spacers increase scrub radius which increases rubbing in the front fenders. A lift might help decrease rubbing at static ride height, but if it rubs on stock suspension it will still rub with a lift when the suspension cycles. Looks like you need to hammer the pinch weld and do a body mount chop.
Thanks. So do you think the short studs are dangerous or ok. I'll watch the pinch weld video. Looks easy. Really looks like it's hitting the body mount. I'll google that as well. Your username is great. I used to us bananiac for a bit
 
You can replace the studs, you just need to pull the rotor off and possibly the front wheel bearing to get enough room. The wheel bearing requires removing the CV axle (no big deal with a 35 mm axle nut), then removing 4 bolts, the ABS sensor, and it will pop off. You can then whack out the old studs with a hammer and put in new ones. Not a big deal honestly if you have an electric impact, torque wrench to put everything back together (axle nut torque is important), and a few hours of time. Unless your rig is pretty low mileage, you can also use this as an opportunity to just replace the wheel bearings, as they rarely last more than 100K miles.
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Also, you likely need a body mount chop. Requires welding. My buddy and I did them in <30 minutes per side on his lift. I pad $26 on Amazon for pre-cut metal for this but it's be super easy to just cut something out with a plasma cutter. Crazy that shops charge $250-300 to do this.
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I can't see how you're hitting both the front fender requiring cutting and back pinch welds both while only running 265/70/17's. O_o
 
You can replace the studs, you just need to pull the rotor off and possibly the front wheel bearing to get enough room. The wheel bearing requires removing the CV axle (no big deal with a 35 mm axle nut), then removing 4 bolts, the ABS sensor, and it will pop off. You can then whack out the old studs with a hammer and put in new ones. Not a big deal honestly if you have an electric impact, torque wrench to put everything back together (axle nut torque is important), and a few hours of time. Unless your rig is pretty low mileage, you can also use this as an opportunity to just replace the wheel bearings, as they rarely last more than 100K miles.
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Thanks yeah might as well do brakes while I'm there as well. Doesn't look too bad. I have a heavy duty air impact wrench so shouldn't be too bad
 
I can't see how you're hitting both the front fender requiring cutting and back pinch welds both while only running 265/70/17's. o_O
Maybe it's the offset?? I'm Def hitting the body mount but only on hard turns. Cutting out the fender plastic is easy. I don't think I'm hitting the pinch weld though but I can see where I'm rubbing the body mount.
 
Thanks. So do you think the short studs are dangerous or ok. I'll watch the pinch weld video. Looks easy. Really looks like it's hitting the body mount. I'll google that as well. Your username is great. I used to us bananiac for a bit
The Toyota/Lexus OE studs are short for whatever reason. Unless it looks like the previous owner cut them down to fit the spacers or something I wouldn't over think it. The ET lugnuts are the way to go for the short OEM studs since they have increased thread engagement.

Like @Rednexus said it is not that big a deal to replace with longer studs if you have the tools for it.
 
The Toyota/Lexus OE studs are short for whatever reason. Unless it looks like the previous owner cut them down to fit the spacers or something I wouldn't over think it. The ET lugnuts are the way to go for the short OEM studs since they have increased thread engagement.

Like @Rednexus said it is not that big a deal to replace with longer studs if you have the tools for it.
Thanks banandalorian..Maybe I'm worried too much. The bolts aren't cut down but they look short. I guess next stop is cut and weld body mount and throw some new bearings and brakes when I'm in there. I drove around today with the spacers on the back but no spacers on the front. Drove ok, I could tell it in the turns though. Probably order some lugs for the back and swap those out later. I see tons of f150s with dually tires twice as wide as thr front rolling around all day do I guess I'm good. Plus the rear looks tough.
 
Why do you want to keep the spacers? Your wheels have already moved your tires out an inch in reduced offset compared to OEM, and the spacers another 1.5". You're not running "big" tires, so the trade-off for the massive offset is you like the looks of wheels that stick out versus steering, clearance and lug nuts issues? I guess you get to pick your battles. Body mount chop is usually only necessary when you approach 34" tires +. The other option you have is to see if you can round up a competent alignment shop and push your lower control arms forward, giving you a bit more clearance in the back. That also gives your a bit more caster, which is usually a good thing, even if you're not lifted. Front plastic is easier to move around than body mounts and pinch welds.

But bottom line, your choice of wheel dimensions + spacers is what's causing you grief.
 
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Why do you want to keep the spacers? Your wheels have already moved your tires out an inch in reduced offset compared to OEM, and the spacers another 1.5". You're not running "big" tires, so the trade-off for the massive offset is you like the looks of wheels that stick out versus steering, clearance and lug nuts issues? I guess you get to pick your battles. Body mount chop is usually only necessary when you approach 34" tires +. The other option you have is to see if you can round up a competent alignment shop and push your lower control arms forward, giving you a bit more clearance in the back. That also gives your a bit more caster, which is usually a good thing, even if you're not lifted. Front plastic is easier to move around than body mounts and pinch welds.

But bottom line, your choice of wheel dimensions + spacers is what's causing you grief.
I'm not married to spacers. They look good but once I took them off I still am hitting the body mount . I would rather it be driveable then look tough
 
I'd definitely pull the spacers. In addition to causing the rubbing issues, they'll stress your wheel bearings more and throw dirt/rocks/mud all down the side of your rig.
 
I'd definitely pull the spacers. In addition to causing the rubbing issues, they'll stress your wheel bearings more and throw dirt/rocks/mud all down the side of your rig.
Thanks. After looking at bearing hubs. It appears that after I put a rotor over the studs then they look about as long as the ones I have now. Weird. It looks sketch but I guess that's normal. Oh well. Instead of bearings / hubs / brakes. Just gonna ditch the spacers and roll like bon Jovi and live on prayer.
 
It’s def the offset causing more rubbing, I had 265/70/17s, no rubbing on anything but fender liner, with a more oem offset. If you’re gonna go chopping (which I am in favor of) you might as well get a bigger tire!

Chop chop chop
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