My traveling HJ47 :)

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one more pick of a complete rear lock for a Troopie
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need only the little grey knob ;)
my broken knob
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Cheers
Peter
 
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Awesome Troopy, your setup looks really good. Looks like you have a single belt driving your compressor and alternator, do you only have 1 belt running off your crank ?
 
Sorry Peter, they didn't have the knob or the steering wheel. Just got a late model FJ45 one and the knob was also missing on the spare door I got. The funny wrecker confused a diesel with a petrol engine, so couldn't get everything I wanted either.
Got that for 700 Aus$ (roughly same as US$):

front bumper
grille
2 ambulance doors
steering wheel
4 sliding windows
most of the weatherstrips
alternator
whole dashboard with instrument cluster, ashtray, knobs and switches, fuse box etc
turn signal switch
horn
windscreen wiper motor and arms
brake master cylinder
clutch cylinder
hand brake
seat belts
fj45 aircon
floor mats
all lights
battery tray
washer tank and pump
pedal pads
indicators/turn signals
visors
1 back seat bench with seat belts
front door lock
fan/heater

Am quiet happy with what I got. Might have to sell a bit again when I am back home due to the horrible costs of shipping and import tax. Makes it hard for a young enough guy who has to keep some money aside for uni. Over 6 grand to get it back home and then everything it takes to get it roadworthy. :rolleyes:

Is that here the original FJ45 aircon? Looks pretty genuine to me at least.

k-p1050910xyf1.jpg



@Zimmi
Thanks and yes, its just one single belt running the whole lot. Easy enough for my taste. :)
 
TÃœV SÃœD GRUPPE - AUTO TÃœV Zulassungen & Import - Verzollung und Einfuhrsteuer

Its 10% for a car and up to 22% if they wanna count it as a truck (not very likely in this case). Thats just "Zollsatz". Then you have to pay the import tax (Einfuhrumsatzsteuer) which is 19% of the value of the car + 19% of the shipping costs + 19% of the "Zollsatz".
My car cost me 8500$ and the shipping more than 2500$. The result is 3100$ in the best case and then marine cargo insurance and inland transport in Germany on top. :cheers:

Sorry Dave, am located south of Perth so a bit on the other side of the continent. ;)
 
That aircon is Toyota - fitted by Toyota dealers once the vehicles came into the country, or as an option at purchase or later.
 
Not much happening right now. Back in Ger and waiting for the truck to arrive. Another delay so mid of April its gonna be. Weird not to have it for 2,5 months after driving it daily for such a long time. :)

Just wanted to share some thoughts about how to rebuild the truck and some pictures I took in OZ of two other cruisers. Pics first.

This is an old HJ45 that is still used on the very modern farm I was working on. A real rust bucket but still up and running. His little brother (my truck) is hiding behind him. ;)
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and a bit more interesting, a dual cab ute/pickup. Saw that one in Perth on a parking spot. Does it look like one of the mining vehicles that got chopped back in the days or does it look like a unique one? Unfortunately a little bit rust here and there as well and I hope the owner will target that at some point. :)
k-p1050510jgph.jpg


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Now to my troopy. first of all I wanna take the whole camper van setup out and would like to protect the tub a bit. Saw some guys painting it from the inside with POR15 and thought about doing the same. Any thoughts on that?

I didn't find any rust on the frame or at the bottom of the tub yet but I have a very hard to reach spot in the left back corner of the car. As I want to keep traveling for a while first I don't really wanna take the top of the body of and start with welding yet. What do you think, if I threat the sections first with rust converter, fill the whole with bog (it is not rusted through yet) and paint it then, would that last for a while or won't it stop the rust from spreading at the same speed?

Its my first time working intensively on a car as you might be able to tell and I will have to rely on the help of some professionals when it gets more complicated. But I just love working on the truck and learning of all the rebuilds here on mud as well and will try to do as much as I can myself. :)

Thanks for the attention and any thoughts about what else I should do to make it last for a good while before a real rebuild would be highly appreciated.
 
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Wootan said:
Saw some guys painting it from the inside with POR15 and thought about doing the same. Any thoughts on that? about what else I should do to make it last for a good while before a real rebuild would be highly appreciated.
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Welcome back in Germany, ;)
would`t use por..
see: Korrosionsschutz-Depot: Neue Produkte in unserem Liefer-Programm
would use:
Brunox Epoxy – einfach einzusetzendes Produkt für zugängliche Flächen, grundiert gleichzeitig.
than:
Brantho Korrux 3in1– sehr fester Chassislack auf vielen Untergründen anwendbar (ca. 45 Farbtöne lieferbar).
than

All products are tested & proved by me ;)
I only used & use these products
Cheers
Peter
 
Thanks a lot for that link, Peter. :)
Had a good look through the website and it seems I can get most of the stuff I need anyway from these guys and they really seem to be enthusiastic about restoration.

But they are selling POR15 as well and there description about it sounds very positive too. Can you tell me the advantages you discovered of using Brantho Korrux instead? I was thinking about getting a very hard paint as it will be used as a campervan anyway and we will walk on it etc without it getting scratched. Maybe I will put some timber on the floor instead but not sure about that yet.

The other thing is the rust threatment. Do you prefer to just convert the rust and then paint it or to get rid of it completely? I think I saw in one of your rebuild threads on buschtaxi that you sandblasted everything and I have a compressor + sandblasting pistol here as well. Thats just for parts I can dismantle easily. For the tub I thought about getting rid of all occuring rust and paint just by sanding it down and then giving it a really tough paint job.

By the way is the cold zinc spray they are selling any good?
 
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Wootan said:
Thanks a lot for that link, Peter. :)
Had a good look through the website and it seems I can get most of the stuff I need anyway from these guys and they really seem to be enthusiastic about restoration.

But they are selling POR15 as well and there description about it sounds very positive too. Can you tell me the advantages you discovered of using Brantho Korrux instead? I was thinking about getting a very hard paint as it will be used as a campervan anyway and we will walk on it etc without it getting scratched. Maybe I will put some timber on the floor instead but not sure about that yet.

The other thing is the rust threatment. Do you prefer to just convert the rust and then paint it or to get rid of it completely? I think I saw in one of your rebuild threads on buschtaxi that you sandblasted everything and I have a compressor + sandblasting pistol here as well. Thats just for parts I can dismantle easily. For the tub I thought about getting rid of all occuring rust and paint just by sanding it down and then giving it a really tough paint job.

By the way is the cold zinc spray they are selling any good?
Click to expand...
Let`s do it in German :D ( sorry guys:p)
Sie verkaufen eine Menge Produkte, die mehr oder weniger brauchbar sind, darunter auch POR 15 )
Wovon ich geschrieben habe, ist in erster Linie, die Rostvorsorge für Unterboden / Rahmen/ Türinnenseiten/ Karosseriefalze.
Zuerst von diesen, den Rost so gut es geht entfernen ,
dann die Flächen gut säubern. Vor dem ersten Arbeitsgang mit Brunox Epoxy
, die Flächen mit Siliconreiniger abwischen ( Silikonentferner nimmt jegliches Fett von den Flächen)
dann, hauptsächlich die Falze ( außen und innen / auch die Türinnenseiten) mit
Brunox Epoxy gut einstreichen / trocknen lassen.
Unterboden/ Rahmen usw.von unten dann mit Chassislack Brantho Korrux 3in1 ( kann man verdünnen, je nach Bedürfniss) streichen.
Den Innenboden würde ich ganz traditionell lackieren.
Die Falze zusätzlich mit Mike Sander Fett (muss man erwärmen / geht gut im Wasserbad) behandeln. Dieses Fett verarbeitet man am besten an heißen Sommertagen, wenn alle Lackarbeiten gemacht sind,
Den Unterboden , den Rahmen, die Türinnenseiten zusätzlich mit Fett ( Mike Sander oder Fluid-Film) sprayen oder streichen
Mike Sander Fett ist das bessere Rostschutzprodukt
( hat alle Langzeittest gewonnen) aber schwieriger für einen Laien zu verarbeiten.
Was du machen könntest, wenn du deine ganzen Karosserieslackmaßnahmen gemacht hast, dieses Fett professionell auftragen lassen, dafür würde ich persönlich einen Termin bei Mike Sander machen ( Kosten für dein Fahrzeug / geschätzt wohl im Bereich von ca. 6 bis 800 Euro.
Mike Sander
würde mich mal mit ihm unterhalten.
Gruß
Peter

P.S. Zink auf Rost hält nicht allzu lange, dann kommt der Rost wieder durch.
Auf Buschtaxi sind diverse Restaurationsbeiträge, keiner von mir, da ich keine Autos restauriere, sondern Autos erhalte. Bin kein großer Freund von Restaurierungen besser als neu, lieber Fahrzeuge mit Patina ;)

Noch vergessen ;) , wenn du dein Fahrzeug sorgfältig nach dieser beschriebenen Methode behandelst, immer mal wieder kontrollierst, brauchst du nie eine Restauration, spart `ne Menge Geld ..und man kann immer fahren ;)
 
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