my rear diff lock wont disengage!!!

[azrider]

I type this with RTV covered hands and frustration. I went about the day today to replace the bottom stud on my rear diff. I had hit a rock a few months back and it ground down the nut and a little of the stud threads and was leaking about a 1/2 dollar size oil spot every day. So I bought a new stud from Camelback Toyota and began the teardown process today. Locked up the diffs and put it on jackstands. Pulled the axles out, took off the actuator off, and dropped the 3rd member. Everything was going good, replaced the stud, slid the 3rd member back on and slid the axles in. When I put the shift fork around the sleeve I was pretty sure the of the orientation of the shift fork. It can be install 2 different ways. The best description I can give is that the little slide thing is at the bottom. (this could be wrong) I went ahead and slid the actuator in and thru the shift fork hole and put in the bolt. I had a little trouble getting the actuator to seat tight, took some time, but while pushing the actuator tight, I got the 4 bolts in. Should I have had to push to make it seat? (this could of been another problem) I then put the cover on (that has the little button on the inside) I plugged the plug in, and filled it with oil. Started it up, turned the dial to unlock and put it in High. Front diff light went out, not the rear. I did this at the in-laws and after making a bunch of turns in the dirt lot across the street, turning the dial a bunch of times, it never unlocked. I drove 5 miles home with the rear locked, and of course i was going slow and took corners super slow. I guess I have to dig into it again tomorrow, i just thought a few of you guys would see where I screwed up and let me know. Im gonna dig around on 'mud and see if I cant find some write-up or pictures to make sure I put it back together correctly. Obviously I didnt. Should of just left that damn oil leak and topped the diff off every few months.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I type this with RTV covered hands and frustration. I went about the day today to replace the bottom stud on my rear diff. I had hit a rock a few months back and it ground down the nut and a little of the stud threads and was leaking about a 1/2 dollar size oil spot every day. So I bought a new stud from Camelback Toyota and began the teardown process today. Locked up the diffs and put it on jackstands. Pulled the axles out, took off the actuator off, and dropped the 3rd member. Everything was going good, replaced the stud, slid the 3rd member back on and slid the axles in. When I put the shift fork around the sleeve I was pretty sure the of the orientation of the shift fork. It can be install 2 different ways. The best description I can give is that the little slide thing is at the bottom. (this could be wrong) I went ahead and slid the actuator in and thru the shift fork hole and put in the bolt. I had a little trouble getting the actuator to seat tight, took some time, but while pushing the actuator tight, I got the 4 bolts in. Should I have had to push to make it seat? (this could of been another problem) I then put the cover on (that has the little button on the inside) I plugged the plug in, and filled it with oil. Started it up, turned the dial to unlock and put it in High. Front diff light went out, not the rear. I did this at the in-laws and after making a bunch of turns in the dirt lot across the street, turning the dial a bunch of times, it never unlocked. I drove 5 miles home with the rear locked, and of course i was going slow and took corners super slow. I guess I have to dig into it again tomorrow, i just thought a few of you guys would see where I screwed up and let me know. Im gonna dig around on 'mud and see if I cant find some write-up or pictures to make sure I put it back together correctly. Obviously I didnt. Should of just left that damn oil leak and topped the diff off every few months.

When I rebuilt my rear actuator all the post I read were more confused me more then just doing it. Sounds like your actuator motor was pushed past the limit switch. Once it hits the limit it will only go the opposed way. If you go past the limit it will not do anything from what I remember. At a minimum the actuator needs to come out get your VOM meter and a 12v power source. Get it the middle of in and out manually slide the diff fork to match put it together and plug it in last. If you are in the middle of in and out when you apply power life should be good.

The good part is its hard to break so it just a matter of getting it in sync.

 

[azrider]

so your thinking the long rod on the actuator is in too far? im not understanding the "get it the middle of in and out", from the pain in the ass files, im remembering that getting the hole in the actuator rod lined up with the hole in the shift fork to be able to put the bolt in wasnt fun. I see one way to get it together. Now, do you think its even possible to install the shift fork, or anything else wrong? I gotta do some family crap this morning and will dig in to it this afternoon. I know your # Phil, if I got anymore questions. I just dont know where I went wrong.

 

[azrider]

what is this part, engage the sleeve with the dog clutch?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

so your thinking the long rod on the actuator is in too far? im not understanding the "get it the middle of in and out", from the pain in the ass files, im remembering that getting the hole in the actuator rod lined up with the hole in the shift fork to be able to put the bolt in wasnt fun. I see one way to get it together. Now, do you think its even possible to install the shift fork, or anything else wrong? I gotta do some family crap this morning and will dig in to it this afternoon. I know your # Phil, if I got anymore questions. I just dont know where I went wrong.

With the actuator off if you quickly apply momentary power and it does nothing you will know where your problem is.

 

[Tools R Us]

Did you take the actuator apart? Did you put the shift fork in backwards?

 

[azrider]

So how do you actually apply power to the actuator? Isn't there just a plug? Not sure exactly how to do that? Have to check the FSM I guess. And Kevin, I'm not quite sure of the orientation of the shift fork, FSM doesn't have a good enough picture, and it does fit both ways, but probably doesn't work both ways.

 

[azrider]

I didn't take the actuator apart, just took it off.

 

[Tools R Us]

... FSM doesn't have a good enough picture, and it does fit both ways, but probably doesn't work both ways.

True, this is the best that I see. The switch ramp slopes towards the diff.

 

[azrider]

I didnt get a chance to tear into it today. Im going to do it tomorrow, because if i put the shift fork in wrong, then axles come out, 3rd comes off and new RTV. Thanks for the picture Kevin, i'll see how it looks compared to the picture. I'll shoot you a picture of it if I have any questions. With loads of info in this site, i still cant find a photo of the cover off viewing in. Believe me, if I did it wrong, some other people have too. You would think that Mr. T would of designed it to go in only one way.

 

[puulboy]

Shannon
I just went through this very problem with my diff install. I was told to take the motor off. With my finger put it in the hole and slide the gear, to the drivers side. I actually lifted up the rear, so there was no pressure on the locker. Re install the motor and presto it worked . It's probably the same with yours.
thanks
Don

 

[azrider]

alright, couldnt wait until today to go see whats up, so i went out to the garage last night at midnight and took off the cover to see (like Kevin mentioned) if the end of the shift fork slopes towards the diff. I took these pictures with my phone, and I would say it definately slopes towards the diff. Does this look right to you guys?, it does me. So I was reading up, and I came across a description of lining up a matchmark on the actuator rod(it has to be straight up). Well, to me, the actauator rod can only go in 2 ways in order for the bolt to go into it and into the shift fork. So im guessing 180 the actuator rod, and see what happens? Dont know what else it could be. Kevins description of the shift fork seems like mine is right. Heres a few pictures.

 

[Tools R Us]

Looks like it's installed correctly and locked? Does the actuator run when the switch is operated?

 

[azrider]

As it sits, it's in 4 high, locker dial is off. That's the way I drove home. But the rear locker is definately locked. I heard some type of clicking, yes, not the usual "lock-unlock" click. I'm not 100% sure how it all works together, if the cover is off, and I lock it in on the dash, should the actuator rod move, or does the cover need to be on? What do you think about my idea of turning the actuator rod 180 degrees?

 

[azrider]

Should I have someone turn the dial back and forth while I look to see if it does anything? I'm thinking of putting it on 4 jackstands, lock the rear and put it in gear, and see what happens. Because doesn't it need wheel spin in order to engage?

 

[Tools R Us]

Should I have someone turn the dial back and forth while I look to see if it does anything? I'm thinking of putting it on 4 jackstands, lock the rear and put it in gear, and see what happens. Because doesn't it need wheel spin in order to engage?

Yep, you don't need 4 jack stands, only one tire up, maybe. With the key to run, engine doesn't need to be running, the CDL switch on and/or shifted to low range, have the helper turn the locker switch. Each time it's turned, the actuator motor should run.

If the actuator motor runs, through the hole you should see the shift fork move slightly. If so jack up the tire on that side and turn, rock it back and forth to see if it will unlock?

On my rig I can hear the actuator motors run from the driver's seat, but I have that damn noisy key in speaker/buzzer cut out.

 

[azrider]

I'll try it and see, I'll let you know.

 

[azrider]

This is what I did, put it back in low, and had Brody turn the dial. I definately heard the whir sound of the actuator, but no movement of the actuator rod or movement of the shift fork. So what im guessing is that actuator rod is in the the wrong orientation, and need to pull it out and 180 it. What role does the cover with the electrical connector play in this whole operation? I have mine off of course, to view the shift fork. I dont think lifting a tire and moving it back and forth is gonna do anything, I drove it 5 miles on the street and didnt unlock. I cannot manually move the shift fork as it sits right now, i tried to use a screwdriver to budge it a little and nothing.

 

[Tools R Us]

This is what I did, put it back in low, and had Brody turn the dial. I definately heard the whir sound of the actuator, but no movement of the actuator rod or movement of the shift fork.

The motor running is a good thing.

So what im guessing is that actuator rod is in the the wrong orientation, and need to pull it out and 180 it. What role does the cover with the electrical connector play in this whole operation? I have mine off of course, to view the shift fork.

I don't see what the rod being 180 is going to do, it should work ether way? If the cover your talking about is the one with the sensor in it, it wont effect anything, only turns the dash light on.

I dont think lifting a tire and moving it back and forth is gonna do anything, I drove it 5 miles on the street and didnt unlock. I cannot manually move the shift fork as it sits right now, i tried to use a screwdriver to budge it a little and nothing.

The next move is to remove the actuator, leave it hang from the wires, run it to see if the rod extends/contracts. Then try to manually shift the fork/gear with a screwdriver through the sensor cover hole.

 

[azrider]

i just read something somewhere along the line about the orientation, I dont know dude. Im gonna pull the actuator in an hour or so, then see if it moves back and forth with the dial. something small just isnt right.