Build My "ran when parked" Land Cruiser from Craigslist

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I wrote a draft a while back, saved it, and couldn't find it, so it never got posted.

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I went ahead and put the new OEM belts on and went to the dealership and bought a new tensioner bolt. I made sure the new belts had about a half an inch of play and tightened everything up. This seems to have fixed the power steering problem as well as the charging issue. We'll see if it actually fixed the power steering when it gets cold again.

I have too many things to work on to remember, so I got a dry erase board for the garage. Now when I am focused on working, I don't have to lose my train of thought on what I need to work on.

I have had to use 3 different keys since I bought the truck. I locked my keys in a while back and had a key made with the VIN. It works on the passenger's side and the back hatch, but the driver's side and ignition have different keys. I bought a set of lock wafers shortly after I bought it, but they've been sitting unopened. Last weekend, I disassembled the driver's side door and took the lock cylinder out. I took the cylinder apart, took the old wafers out, cleaned it and relubricated it with graphite lock lubricant. I looked for a Toyota 8 cut lock diagram for a while, but since I didn't find one, I just tested different wafers until they were flush with the key inserted.
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I also 3d printed a locksmith tray to keep everything organized.
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Disregard that the part that turns lock mechanism is backwards. I fixed that before I put it in the door.

All the door locks have matching keys now. I will try and do the ignition next. I would also like to do plugs and wires since I don't know the last time they were replaced, but I don't know what to buy since they've been discontinued. I will probably just test the resistance and keep the wires that are on the truck if they're still in spec.

I also haven't put the door back together because I saw how bad the factory speaker is and got a case of the "might as wells." So, I am pricing 6 1/2 inch speakers right now.
 
I wrote a draft a while back, saved it, and couldn't find it, so it never got posted.

View attachment 4156709
I went ahead and put the new OEM belts on and went to the dealership and bought a new tensioner bolt. I made sure the new belts had about a half an inch of play and tightened everything up. This seems to have fixed the power steering problem as well as the charging issue. We'll see if it actually fixed the power steering when it gets cold again.

I have too many things to work on to remember, so I got a dry erase board for the garage. Now when I am focused on working, I don't have to lose my train of thought on what I need to work on.

I have had to use 3 different keys since I bought the truck. I locked my keys in a while back and had a key made with the VIN. It works on the passenger's side and the back hatch, but the driver's side and ignition have different keys. I bought a set of lock wafers shortly after I bought it, but they've been sitting unopened. Last weekend, I disassembled the driver's side door and took the lock cylinder out. I took the cylinder apart, took the old wafers out, cleaned it and relubricated it with graphite lock lubricant. I looked for a Toyota 8 cut lock diagram for a while, but since I didn't find one, I just tested different wafers until they were flush with the key inserted.
View attachment 4156715
I also 3d printed a locksmith tray to keep everything organized.
View attachment 4156716
View attachment 4156718
Disregard that the part that turns lock mechanism is backwards. I fixed that before I put it in the door.

All the door locks have matching keys now. I will try and do the ignition next. I would also like to do plugs and wires since I don't know the last time they were replaced, but I don't know what to buy since they've been discontinued. I will probably just test the resistance and keep the wires that are on the truck if they're still in spec.

I also haven't put the door back together because I saw how bad the factory speaker is and got a case of the "might as wells." So, I am pricing 6 1/2 inch speakers right now.
I need a cure for the dreaded "might as well" disease
 
Check engine light came on. Engine is running fine, so I assumed O2 sensor. Checked the code 2 flashes then 8 flashes (Code 28). Which O2 sensor is that? Manual says number 2, but all I can find is left or right. I'm going to clean it and see if that helps. I was going to pull the EFI fuse for 30 seconds and see how quickly the code comes back, but the fuse is fused to the fuse block... Any suggestions?
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Fuse isn't popped, but the plastic is melted.
 
I drove home and the code went away. I'm going to check the O2 sensors and see if I can clean them. I don't remember buying cheap fuses on Amazon or Harbor Freight. Maybe it was something the previous owner left in the truck, and it was corroding. Is PEC the OEM? I notice that the rest of the fuse say Pacific.
 
I bought some Alpine Type E 6.5 inch speakers for the doors. They don't fit at all, and none of the models on Thingiverse/Printables look like they'll work. Luckily, I've been bored enough to teach myself how to use FreeCAD. After watching a few tutorials, I clicked on things until I had something I could send to my 3D printer. I test fit things, made changes, and printed the modified models until I had something that would fit. After printing 3 prototypes, I was finally happy with a design. I printed 2 adapters in ABS with 40% infill. I may paint them to match or print more if I find filament that is a closer match.
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I got one speaker mounted to the driver's side door right now. I'm probably going to redo the window grease and moisture barrier before I put the door card back on. It is a very tight fit and one of the screws I used is self-clearancing against the dashpad.

I bought a Vevor 15L ultrasonic cleaner. I've heard they're way better than the ones from Harbor Freight. We'll see how it works on those O2 sensors.
 
I finally got the Wolfbox dashcam that I got for Christmas partially installed. After mocking up some designs in FreeCAD, I realized that I was overcomplicating the mount and just designed something to use the stock rear view mirror mount. My stock mirror smelled like old stale cigarette smoke and the plastic was flaking off, so I yanked the mount out of the socket on the mirror to make some measurements. After a quick prototype that had too much slop, I decreased the radius of the sphere and made the screw holes bigger, with boreholes to make it look a little cleaner. I also printed one with supports on the sphere so there would be a rough surface to add a bit more tension to the ball and socket joint.
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I used four M4x20 screws to hold everything together.
 
I got home from work Thursday and noticed that the passenger side floor was soaked. I took the hose off under the glove box and shot compressed air through it, put it back together, no more drips. I haven't noticed it doing this, but I have been driving my truck more because the AC in my FR-S needs charged. I peeled back the carpet and saw quite a bit of surface rust underneath. I'm going to try and clean it up a bit and put some rust converter on it. It still feels pretty solid.
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Here's a picture that's less depressing.
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