My Project First Weekend (1 Viewer)

[JaysinSr]

I finally had some time to work on the Cruiser today. Thank GOD, I was busting at the seams to get in there and learn about my new family fun project. And thank you to every poster on here for helping me through all of this!
I started with the paper clip scanner to determine what codes ignited the ever so romantic amber engine glow on the dash. Three codes revealed themselves through the morse code, 12, 41 and 71. After about an hour or reading, I decided it would be best to look over every inch of vacuum hose under the beasts hood. Found about five or six vacuum lines completely disconnected. Once I searched the forums again to find some vacuum line diagrams, it went pretty smooth. I do need to order most, if not all, of the lines as they are certainly showing their age. I reset the system, a few times as I must not have got it right the first time or two. She started right up, and without the romantic glow, of which I am perfectly ok with. I also noticed the idle was way lower now. She idled right around 400rpm. My better half and I took her for a spin. She certainly idled much lower, but still rough, so I still have work to do. No check engine light though. And can anyone tell me, before I search, why the oil pressure would be so high? Super concerning.
I want to give everyone a huge thank you. I never touched any of this before today. All the great information helped me to figure a few things out. Now on to figure out the knock. I may be rebuilding the bottom end. We will see. If I can figure out how to upload video, and link it, I will.

 

[BILT4ME]

What year and engine is in your truck?

The oil pressure being high is NOT a problem.
That said, these oil pressure and temperature gauges are known to be VERY wrong. For instance, my truck pegs the gauge on the high side all the time. I discovered this week that when I turn the key on, the gauge moves up to the mid-point before I ever start the engine, so I know mine is whack. I am in the process of rounding up the parts to do a mechanical gauge for mine because that's the way I am. The original gauge can be re-calibrated (sort of) but I still don't trust it.

 

[JaysinSr]

What year and engine is in your truck?

The oil pressure being high is NOT a problem.
That said, these oil pressure and temperature gauges are known to be VERY wrong. For instance, my truck pegs the gauge on the high side all the time. I discovered this week that when I turn the key on, the gauge moves up to the mid-point before I ever start the engine, so I know mine is whack. I am in the process of rounding up the parts to do a mechanical gauge for mine because that's the way I am. The original gauge can be re-calibrated (sort of) but I still don't trust it.

She is a 94 with the 4.5 1fz-fe. Thank you for the insight on the gauge. Was thinking that knock may be something super serious. Still may be, but it helps to know the oil pressure gauge isn't accurate.

 

[BILT4ME]

What "knock"? Knock does NOT happen at HIGH oil pressure. (I missed this in the first post. sorry.)

These commonly have a "start-up knock" that SHOULD go away within a few seconds as the system fills with oil.

What oil filter are you using? There have been a few massive failures due to certain brands and models. (WIX / NAPA in particular)
What oil are you running? Brand, type and weight.

Other sources of "The Knock" can be:
Power steering pump replaced and someone boogered the gear. (Most common)
Timing chain worn
Worn rod bearings (not good)

See if you can post a video of the noise you are listening to. Walk the phone around the front of the engine and around each side so we can see if there is a difference as you go around. Sometimes this works, other times, no.

 

[JaysinSr]

I uploaded a video, it sounds much worse on video.
Knock

 

[BILT4ME]

OK here's your list:
1) You NEED a new intake hose from the filter to the throttle body.
2) You have a vacuum leak on the left side of the engine near the brake booster (could be EGR stuff, or IAC valves under the intake or the brake booster hose)
(Left side = drivers side in USA)
3) You MAY have an exhaust leak on the pipe from the manifold to the cats.
4) That really sounds like the PS pump gear.
5) You need NEW alternator belts and they are currently installed WRONG. The belts must go on the OUTSIDE of the idler pulley. This MAY be causing the noise isue IF you have a chunk out of the belts and it is hiting everything just right. Order belts from TOYOTA. They should be about $15. (Look up Absolute Wits End @NLXTACY ) and he will get you takn care of.
6) It is a possibility that one or both of your idler pulleys are bad and making this noise.

Change ALL your belts and inspect your idler pulleys while you're there to determine they run smooth and noise free.

Only AFTER you have done some of these other things (vacuum leaks and belts/idlers) should you worry about the PS pump or the rods.

HOWEVER, Check your oil filter brand and model. It's blue, so I don't recognize it. (WIX and NAPA are white, Fram is orange, Toyota is black.)

Do another video around the front inside the engine bay while running. Go down each side, but don;t stick your hand in the fan!

 

[JaysinSr]

I am not certain of the oil and filter as I just purchased the Cruiser last week. It does get more quite as she warms up. But it seemed a little excessive, so I am concerned. I will go ahead and replace the oil and filter. That way I know what it is. What is suggested?

 

[JaysinSr]

Awesome, than you! I will order parts and work on that next weekend. We have a birthday to go to tomorrow. Luckily she is not a daily driver so I wont make matters worse.

 

[BILT4ME]

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is where I buy most of my Toyota parts.

There are also your local dealerships, but make sure you price check.

There is also www.partsouq.com on here, but they are middle east and may not be completitive on SOME things, but they are GREAT part number resource.

Your filter SHOULD be a Toyota 90915-YZZD3 I buy 10 at a time and I also get the drain plug gasket. This helps offset freight costs. (This is a small filter)

On the 94's they SHOULD quiet as they warm up, as the PAIR system closes. However, THAT noise is NOT the PAIR system.

Do a search on 'Mud for the intake hose. Some folks have been buying them someplace reasonable. There are lots of threads. I personally prefer Toyota when I can or it makes sense, but my truck tends to spit out aftermarket crap.

Oh yeah, and WELCOME to 'Mud! (Official Salute!)

 

[JaysinSr]

I can't thank you enough! I am very excited about getting out into the great unknown with my LC. Your help has been great, and has helped reasure me that there a chance I didn't make the worst purchase ever, lol.

 

[BILT4ME]

I can't thank you enough! I am very excited about getting out into the great unknown with my LC. Your help has been great, and has helped reasure me that there a chance I didn't make the worst purchase ever, lol.

Search is your friend here.

In the upper right here, search "in this forum" for what you are looking for. You MAY end up with hundreds of threads.

EVERYTHING you want to do to your has been done by SOMEONE here.

To quote the guru here, "There is no new information, just new audiences." or something like that.

Keep your posts and questions here to keep all your records together and build your timeline of your project. Don;t start a new thread with every concern you have. Post a new question here and it will bring it back to the top.

If you need someone, type their username into the thread with @ in front of it and it will "call" them to this thread.

 

[BILT4ME]

I can't thank you enough! I am very excited about getting out into the great unknown with my LC. Your help has been great, and has helped reasure me that there a chance I didn't make the worst purchase ever, lol.

Final thought for the night;

Attached to the filter housing is is an aluminum piece with a wiring harness going to it. That is your AFM/VAF/MAF airflow sensor.

DO NOT, for any reason, remove the two screws that hold on that harness and pull on it. You WILL break the wired I'm it and it is a $500 part that is NLA. No longer available....

 

[JaysinSr]

Final thought for the night;

Attached to the filter housing is is an aluminum piece with a wiring harness going to it. That is your AFM/VAF/MAF airflow sensor.

DO NOT, for any reason, remove the two screws that hold on that harness and pull on it. You WILL break the wired I'm it and it is a $500 part that is NLA. No longer available....

Oh wow, thats not good. Thank you for the heads up.

 

[thatcabledude]

Start hitting the parting out threads in the classifieds section for a fan shroud. Gonna be getting hot soon.

 

[BILT4ME]

Start hitting the parting out threads in the classifieds section for a fan shroud. Gonna be getting hot soon.

Nice catch!

I missed that!

@slow95z may have a good used one, inexpensive......

 

[JaysinSr]

Yes, thank you. I was searching google for one. But if @slow95z has one for sale, I'd much rather go that route.

 

[slow95z]

I would need to check, most of my rigs took front hits. What's a new one cost?

 

[JaysinSr]

The ones I saw were 100+. Found one or two around 85 and 90 but not too sure it was the correct one.

 

[JaysinSr]

I also need the air intake hose from the filter canister to the intake if you happen to have one of those as well.