Last year I purchase a Morris Mule knock-off here in TX. It was one of only 2 remaining after production was ceased. The primary difference is in the suspension as mine runs the Timbren Axle-less suspension. After much research and discussions with Timbren, my axles are a unique "hybrid" version whose axles are for 3600lbs, but have the 2200lb rated springs. They are the 4" lift as well which provides a TON of ground clearance. I replaced the bearings with genuine Timken bearings and chose to use the Green Grease (which has been excellent). Since the hub spacing was for the Jeep pattern, I added 1 inch adapters for my 5x150 110 bore 100 Series pattern. This allows me to run the same size wheel/tire combination as my tow rig (1998 LX470).
I added the Harbor Freight tongue box. In that box, I run a NAPA Legend75 Series 49 battery (same as on my LX) along with a 600w inverter and I use the Harbor Freight Thunderbolt 100w solar setup with MPPT controller. It's a pretty basic setup, but meets my needs perfectly.
I added some heavy duty mudflaps to help mitigate rock throwing. I've since added a "skirt" across the lower front of the trailer to protect the underside and suspension for gravel being thrown back by my LXs tires. I also added the Lock N Roll hitch which is fantastic.....MUCH better than the traditional tow ball that the trailer came equipped with.
The tent is a Smittybilt Overlander XL (deploys to the port side) with annex and the awnings are the 8 foot ARB with Awning Room on the starboard side and the Ironman 6 foot awning off the back.
The problem I faced with the "rack" was that it was a "static height. There was zero vertical adjustment. I need the tent to be higher in order to properly deploy the annex room, but I needed/wanted it to be lower for transport (lower center of gravity on the trails and less wind resistance on the highway) and to get in my garage. So, I purchase 4 drop-leg jacks. I welded on the swivel mounts to the four corners of the trailer. I then welded on "tabs" to the vertical bars of the tent rack. When inverted, the drop leg jacks can be cranked to lift the tent up about 16". I then insert 2 Grade8 bolts into each vertical bar to secure the rack. The drop leg jacks then swivel 180 degrees into the downward facing position and I "level" from there. This provides and incredibly stable tent/trailer platform. Generally (doing it solo) only take 5 minutes to get the tent rack up to it's deployed height and then setup the height of the trailer at the four corners. I have linear actuators, but never got around to installing them yet.
I have plans to add onboard water and propane, but haven't tackled that project yet. The first year was just mainly "using" the trailer and discovering what my actual needs truly are.
I've now towed the trailer to CO twice (1800 mile round trips) and towed it over Medano, Marshall, Los Pinos, Cinnamon, California, Hurricane and Engineer passes. It handles rough gravel exceptionally well and goes anywhere my LX can go. I've taken it to Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park as well.
Anyway, I'm very happy with the little trailer. Over 7000 trouble free miles over the past 12 months (knocks on wood)
I added the Harbor Freight tongue box. In that box, I run a NAPA Legend75 Series 49 battery (same as on my LX) along with a 600w inverter and I use the Harbor Freight Thunderbolt 100w solar setup with MPPT controller. It's a pretty basic setup, but meets my needs perfectly.
I added some heavy duty mudflaps to help mitigate rock throwing. I've since added a "skirt" across the lower front of the trailer to protect the underside and suspension for gravel being thrown back by my LXs tires. I also added the Lock N Roll hitch which is fantastic.....MUCH better than the traditional tow ball that the trailer came equipped with.
The tent is a Smittybilt Overlander XL (deploys to the port side) with annex and the awnings are the 8 foot ARB with Awning Room on the starboard side and the Ironman 6 foot awning off the back.
The problem I faced with the "rack" was that it was a "static height. There was zero vertical adjustment. I need the tent to be higher in order to properly deploy the annex room, but I needed/wanted it to be lower for transport (lower center of gravity on the trails and less wind resistance on the highway) and to get in my garage. So, I purchase 4 drop-leg jacks. I welded on the swivel mounts to the four corners of the trailer. I then welded on "tabs" to the vertical bars of the tent rack. When inverted, the drop leg jacks can be cranked to lift the tent up about 16". I then insert 2 Grade8 bolts into each vertical bar to secure the rack. The drop leg jacks then swivel 180 degrees into the downward facing position and I "level" from there. This provides and incredibly stable tent/trailer platform. Generally (doing it solo) only take 5 minutes to get the tent rack up to it's deployed height and then setup the height of the trailer at the four corners. I have linear actuators, but never got around to installing them yet.
I have plans to add onboard water and propane, but haven't tackled that project yet. The first year was just mainly "using" the trailer and discovering what my actual needs truly are.
I've now towed the trailer to CO twice (1800 mile round trips) and towed it over Medano, Marshall, Los Pinos, Cinnamon, California, Hurricane and Engineer passes. It handles rough gravel exceptionally well and goes anywhere my LX can go. I've taken it to Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park as well.
Anyway, I'm very happy with the little trailer. Over 7000 trouble free miles over the past 12 months (knocks on wood)
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