My only LC buying thread... from now on

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vilasman

Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Threads
100
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I went to see 2 cruisers yesterday. I had already seen the burgundy one in Frederick Md and my mechanic vetoed it because of the thud in the differential.
LC #2 . I went to see this one about a month ago. It is a 2003. I have been waiting in the mean time for my mechanic to find the time to go back with me. We get to the lot. The guys wife is using the car. It is maryland inspected and he says he has fixed the muffler and replaced the Oxygen sensor. Now my issues with the car were a) the steerring didnt telescope.... (I read the threads on that already) b) the driver seat adjustment knobs are all broken off ( all the adjustments work... but it is just the stems where the handles should be) and c) on the back door... where the latch is to open the door, before I found the latch I felt a roughness ... like it was rust on the bottom edge of the door. No major things but then I discovered that the 2004 has the back up camera. I once backed up over a dog... camera might be useful.

Now let me say this before I make comments on LC#3. I have known my mechanic for 32-33 years now, since I was a kid. He taught me to drive trucks and stick shifts. I have put dents in 2 or 3 of his cars. He flew from the east coast to the west coast to be in my wedding. Over the course of the last 10 years he has loaned me at least 3 cars for indefinite periods of time, cause I needed a car and didnt have the cash to get one.

Also, and here is the kicker... he bought an Acura once, sight un seen, turns out it had been in water and in the end he had to replace the engine, the tranny and a lot of the wiring harness.

LC #3... has been in water. IT came from NY. It has a salvage title. It has amazingly low mileage. The listing says "has been in fresh water, but shows no signs of interior water damage, all electronics work, no dashboard lights are on, no signs of rust, no mold or mildew. " We get to the car. Brake light is on. He asked dealer...blank look. SO he tries to put the car into gear... nothing. He does it several times... then he tells me... if you put a car into gear it should roll. By itself. You shouldn't have to press the gas to get it to move. Reverse... same thing. Car goes into gear smoothly but it wont move. So then he goes under the hood. All fluids have been changed. All the belts and hoses are in good shape. Then he looks at the bottom of the engine at the frame. Rust. Looks at the bolt heads on the bottom of the engine. Rust. Above a certain level there are no signs of rust...but below... there are. He spent awhile at the rear looking for smoke from the exhaust. None. We played with all the electronics and lights... they worked. The ad does say that it has rear seat entertainment... I didnt see it.

Now on thursday we are going to look at both cars again. Mechanic is bring tools and a jack. Among other things he is going to pull the rear wheels and look at the brakes for rust and take a closer look at the frame.

The cruiser in NJ ... I am almost ready to give up on because of the bumper situation.

Now quick question. The seat heaters in #3 car did turn on. I felt warmth. When I turned on the seat heaters in car #2... after awhile I had to turn it off cause I got to hot. Just wondering if that could be a problem.

Merry Christmas everyone!
 
vilasman said:
my mechanic vetoed it because of the thud in the differential....
Click to expand...
This is minor if it is the typical LC/Driveshaft thud.

vilasman said:
LC #3... has been in water. IT came from NY. It has a salvage title...

Now on thursday we are going to look at both cars again.
Click to expand...
This sounds major.

Good luck.
 
Are you nuts? You're worried about a differential thud that is common to all Land Cruisers but you're thinking a flood salvage is a good idea? I don't care how good of a friend this guy is, he doesn't know what he's looking at. #3 is a disaster.

Three easy steps:

a) Find a Cruiser from outside the rust belt, preferably on the West Coast.
b) Find a MUD member to check it out for you. We're everywhere and we'll probably do it for free, or at least for :beer:. And we know 100's better than any mechanic, including those at the dealer. They just don't see enough of them to know what to look for.
c) Pay the $1000 to have it shipped. Best $1k you'll spend on the truck.
 
I know the flood damaged 100 you're talking about, I'd stay away, even if it's just because of your resale at some point. I'm shopping as well for an '03+ 100.
 
Probably going to get #2. I am scared of the water damage and the salvage title and what it would take to get a clear title and of always having the thought in my head that the car was going to pot because of the water damage as well but my friend wanted to see it.
I have a couple of questions.
When I was standing next to the rear of the cruiser while it was running I heard air blowing. There is like a vent thing at the back of it, between the rear window and the back door. What is that for or what does it do?
Next can a cruiser be driven hard on the highway? Right now I drive a v6 accord and I drive it pretty hard. I use to drive a full size van and I drove that pretty hard as well. Now I realize that a cruiser is not a Beamer but... on the highway can it keep up with the faster traffic?
Last question for right now. I go to the dealer to test drive a cruiser... there probably wont be any fire trails close by for me to put it into 4H or 4L to see if the transfer case is going to work. So would you do to check and see how the transfer case was working?
 
thank you Mgoblue, I take it you havent gone to see the one frederick because it is an 02...
 
I'm not sure what you're looking for anymore? You've started 3 or 4 threads about trucks you're looking at. As mentioned in this thread and the last one that I linked you a "drive shaft clunk thread", you are looking for a $20k vehicle for less than $15k.

Water damage is never good, a $20k vehicle being "priced to move quickly at $15k" is a red flag. There is a reason these things fetch a high dollar, even with high milage. I understand you trust your mechanic. Maybe you should have him take a look at the drive shaft clunk thread. It's more than common, it's a certainty that the drive shaft will clunk/thud if it's not properly greased.

Ask the dealer to grease the driveshaft/slip yoke/ujoints and the clunk will most likely disappear. Or, use that clunk to your advantage and try to get a better price from the dealer. Personally, I'd rather see if that fixes the clunk before plopping down my hard earned $$. YMMV.

Remember, you're looking at a 8-12 year old vehicle. It's gonna require maintenance and more $$ after you drive it off the lot.

EDIT: why not look for a used vehicle on here from a MUD member? Many times you get a history of the truck just from previous postings. And more than likely, you'll get a well maintained vehicle.
 
As for why I haven't looked to buy from another MUD member, I sorta figured most of you were not on the east coast... never paid attention the classified button up top.
As for water. Make no mistake I assumed that truck was a bad deal from the moment I read water and salvage. But I mentioned it to my friend and he said... if you dont want it might buy it myself.
The one thing ... my one question and I think I already know the answer... is this.
And this is a statement and not a question.
Driving through a river or down a beach is one thing. Sitting in water up to your hood, especially flood water is a different story. Does that pretty much sum it up?
 
As for the other question... I have started I believe 3 threads related to buying my cruiser. I guess this is bad Etiquette. On some forums if you want your topic or question answered you sorta have to start a new thread to make sure it gets noticed. I take it that people do take at least a peek at the threads that rise to the top. I will act accordingly.
I am still wondering what that vent thing is at the back of the truck.
I have taken a look at the classifieds and I see what you guys are talking about. A good condition 03-04 in here is going for at least 20,000
 
vilasman said:
I discovered that the 2004 has the back up camera. I once backed up over a dog... camera might be useful.
Click to expand...

I installed a backup camera for $40 and < 2 hours. More if I bothered to hide the wires more... but I barely notice the wires since most of it goes under the mats.

I'm glad I don't have the factory nav though.. physical controls are more resilient and I already have a nav which has updated addresses / voice search and what not (aka my phone). Since you're casually talking about water damage, I'd take this part even more seriously!
 
vilasman said:
I am still wondering what that vent thing is at the back of the truck.
I have taken a look at the classifieds and I see what you guys are talking about. A good condition 03-04 in here is going for at least 20,000
Click to expand...

The vent is a one-way rubber flap, was the HVAC on when you were standing next to it and heard the wooshing sound? Have someone close a door when standing next to it, you may have a better understanding of it after that. :)

A good condition 03-04 is going for $20k because that is what a good condition 03-04 is worth. Perhaps you should buy a couple year older well cared for LC within your budget, instead of buying a turd and exposing yourself to all sorts of maintenance issues relating to poor care, etc. :meh:

The right truck for the right price is out there. I found my '07 in Kansas City with 102k mi back in February for $29k, when '07s were generally going for much higher (especially around my area, hence my trip to KC, I was also very picky on color).

Anyway, from a former mechanic who has done it before: Please don't buy a turd.
 
the water cruiser from NY by way of esalvagables.com by way of Philidelphia will NOT be appearing in my driveway. ;)
Now there is a 2009 in Calfornia for 16500 on esalvagables.com that got hit in the rear that I might would consider if I were on that side of the country.
 
Just my $.02: Any money you save buying a salvage vehicle, plan to spend/lose at least double that amount in problem solving and repairs during longer-term ownership and/or loss in resale value due to the history. Rarely can a dollar value placed on headaches. But if there could be, plan for a $ number that is triple than the amount saved.
 
vilasman said:
the water cruiser from NY by way of esalvagables.com by way of Philidelphia will NOT be appearing in my driveway. ;)
Now there is a 2009 in Calfornia for 16500 on esalvagables.com that got hit in the rear that I might would consider if I were on that side of the country.
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A few things. First, a 2009 would be a 200 Series LC, not a 100 Series. With a sticker price upwards of $70k when brand new. If you can buy one for $16.5, I can't imagine you'd be driving it anytime soon. You'd probably have $40k in repairs. Then you'd have a $56,000 vehicle with a salvaged title.

Also, many states have restrictions on salvaged vehicles from out of state being titled in state. It's a long process to get a "clean" title, and may never happen. You should look into that. I think you said you're from Maryland. http://www.mva.maryland.gov/About-MVA/INFO/27300/27300-42T.htm


Again, if you want a nice, well maintained 100 Series LC or LX, look at the Classifieds section right here on MUD.
Start here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/uzj100-lx470/


Why not simply tell us what you're looking for and how much you want to spend? I can almost guarantee someone on here will find it for you, or at least send you a link to that vehicle. It's not uncommon for MUD members to go look at a vehicle for another member who is out of state. Understand that everyones opinion of a "clean" vehicle is different though. But, for $400 in round trip airfare, you could send your trusted mechanic anywhere in the country for a day.

Here's one in PA for $14.5. http://lancaster.craigslist.org/ctd/3477562843.html It looks like they've had it for at least 30 days. Use that to your advantage on the price. TB and WP done for the 2nd time?

Here's an even nicer 02' with low miles $15.8.
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/ctd/3494316931.html

Hope this helps. :bang:
 
I bought a 2002 Cruiser

I think I posted that somewhere else... but I am going to be a good forum member and let this be my only thread from now on. I will post a few picts when I figure out how. 105,000 miles... well 106500 now... got it last friday. It is my dailey driver. So far I have replaced a busted door speaker, just bought 2 toyo open country h/t tire to match the 2 newish ones in the front.
Question... I have 2 options for my daily commute. One is around 55 miles each way.... with 30 or more minutes in slow heavy traffic... IE I-270 SB at 8am. The other is maybe 60-65 miles... I-70 to route 100 to 95 to 495. The question is... in terms of gas usage is it better to be at speed on the high way or idling in traffic... I think i am going to do the I70 because it's faster but thought I would ask.
2nd question when I first bought it... it started right up. I think the 3rd start.... turn the key lights come on... no fire. Again... lights come on no fire. 3rd time... starts like a charm. Wife drives it... she mentions the same thing. Now 95% of the time it starts first try. And it starts so dependably and is so quiet that sometimes I wonder if it did start and I just cant hear it. I am taking back to dealer this week for them to look at it. What should they check? Truck was meticulously maintianed by the previous owner. Timing belt was done at 92,000 miles
 
Measure your MPG on both routes, pick the one that is better, done. But keep in mind its a land cruiser, you'll never get "good" MPG.

not sure about your starting issues - starter? ignition? faulty wire? :meh:
 
vilasman said:
I think I posted that somewhere else... but I am going to be a good forum member and let this be my only thread from now on. I will post a few picts when I figure out how. 105,000 miles... well 106500 now... got it last friday. It is my dailey driver. So far I have replaced a busted door speaker, just bought 2 toyo open country h/t tire to match the 2 newish ones in the front.
Question... I have 2 options for my daily commute. One is around 55 miles each way.... with 30 or more minutes in slow heavy traffic... IE I-270 SB at 8am. The other is maybe 60-65 miles... I-70 to route 100 to 95 to 495. The question is... in terms of gas usage is it better to be at speed on the high way or idling in traffic... I think i am going to do the I70 because it's faster but thought I would ask.
2nd question when I first bought it... it started right up. I think the 3rd start.... turn the key lights come on... no fire. Again... lights come on no fire. 3rd time... starts like a charm. Wife drives it... she mentions the same thing. Now 95% of the time it starts first try. And it starts so dependably and is so quiet that sometimes I wonder if it did start and I just cant hear it. I am taking back to dealer this week for them to look at it. What should they check? Truck was meticulously maintianed by the previous owner. Timing belt was done at 92,000 miles
Click to expand...

Sounds like starter is starting to go. They warn you :)
 
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