My legacy FZJ80

MoJ

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Oct 24, 2003
Messages
4,056
 
 
 
You might replace the ARB bumper rather than have a shop refinish it. Throw the old one on Craigslist and you’ll probably be money ahead.
 

UCLAcruiser

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Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
229
Location
Los Angeles, CA
So sorry to hear about your loss. Glad you are keeping his legacy alive by running his cruiser. Welcome to the community :flipoff2:

I have the name of a guy up toward Burbank that did a full repaint for another member on here. He did a very good job but it was at CA prices. Lmk if that works for you and I can shoot you a private message (the envelope icon in the upper right corner next to your screen name when you log in). I am sure other local ppl have others.

As for sliders many people have used and like White Knuckle Off Road in the Apple Valley area. It is about a 2.5 hour drive for you but you can pick them up and they are a great family business. They also give mud members a small discount.

A645B0A9-E072-4A49-B1F6-E2CF6B295874.png
 

MoJ

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Oct 24, 2003
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What bumper would you replace it with?
It’s so much a matter of personal preference. I’d either replace it with the same ARB or a Slee. If you’re concerned about deer strikes the ARB provides the best protection. The Slee bumper has a better approach angle, still provides some animal protection, and keeps the lines of the front end. There are of course other options such as Delta, et al.
 

MoJ

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Oct 24, 2003
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And I should clarify, the ARB approach angle is not at all bad, just a bit less than some of the other options. It’s perfectly fine for everything you’ll likely want to encounter
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,349
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
What bumper would you replace it with?
If you seriously are looking at getting rid of the old bumper, I will seriously consider it, even if we have to ship i across country. Maybe we can work out a "MudShip" or @Fj81 will be driving a route through your area and then magically drive through the Midwest........

I have capabilities to add a winch and to blast and refinish something like that.

Let me know if you're interested in making a deal.
 

sicilian

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Oct 29, 2010
Messages
120
Location
Sf Bay Area
 
If you want sliders that are a full step platform with cat protection, Bump It Off Road (BIO Off Road) makes a really incognito one that looks like a running board, but is a real rock slider that attaches to the frame.
 

Tachycardic

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Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
344
Location
Nevada
Only you can decide what front bumper you want or need. It's all based off your budget, aesthetics, and use. If you're never going to install a winch, it would be a waste to get a winch-capable bumper. Like-wise, if you're not in danger of hitting a bunch of animals (like our friends down under), you could easily get away with a less substantial bumper--unless you prefer the look. Basically, there are 4 styles to go with:

1) Stock
2) Minimal profile like a TJM T17 or Slee Short Bus
3) Bull bar like the ARB
4) DOM or HREW with or without a stinger like the Rock Defense/Trail Gear
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Ventura County, CA
Only you can decide what front bumper you want or need. It's all based off your budget, aesthetics, and use. If you're never going to install a winch, it would be a waste to get a winch-capable bumper. Like-wise, if you're not in danger of hitting a bunch of animals (like our friends down under), you could easily get away with a less substantial bumper--unless you prefer the look. Basically, there are 4 styles to go with:

1) Stock
2) Minimal profile like a TJM T17 or Slee Short Bus
3) Bull bar like the ARB
4) DOM or HREW with or without a stinger like the Rock Defense/Trail Gear
Thanks. I check them out.
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
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Location
Ventura County, CA
Help needed...I would appreciate any ideas you mudders out there might have.

The experts at K&H in the Valley have now examined the front differential gears and the birfields (all of which "look ok") and replaced the front differential bearings. Said he found very few metal shavings in the differential. Reassembled and test drove...The grinding and clunking coming from the front end only when in low range and only when the wheel is turned right or left more than about 30degrees is still there...no change. Armondo says he has never had this occur before; will tear down the front differential again tomorrow. I suggested the birfields since the beast has 244,000 on it and the birfields have never been replaced. He says no; they look good.

Very disheartening when the "expert" says he's got no idea. I'll gratefully receive any ideas you all in the brain trust might have.

P.S. The howling which I had at 50+ mph is now apparently gone...probably the new front differential bearings did the trick.
 
Joined
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Messages
9,349
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
If he's locking it in LOW range and doing circles, with the wheels at 30°, he's BINDING the transfer case and the birfields and everything. NOT ON DRY PAVEMENT! It will break stuff. Did he lube the spindle bushings on the end of the Birfields with Moly Grease (such as Valvoline Palladium) and pack that cavity 3/4 full during reassembly?

In LOW RANGE, the Center Differential locks. This locks the front and rear together and causes it to bind. It is for OFF ROAD USE ONLY. If it does not do it in HIGH RANGE it's because the CDL is unlocked in HR and it allows the F/R differentials to rotate independently of each other. Hence the term center DIFFERENTIAL.

Also, did they check the U-Joints while there?

If they don't understand the CDL, then find a new shop. I am totally serious here, not being sarcastic.

Look for the light on the dash. When going to LR, the CDL light will light up on the left side of the dash and the ABS light will also come on.
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
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Location
Ventura County, CA
If he's locking it in LOW range and doing circles, with the wheels at 30°, he's BINDING the transfer case and the birfields and everything. NOT ON DRY PAVEMENT! It will break stuff. Did he lube the spindle bushings on the end of the Birfields with Moly Grease (such as Valvoline Palladium) and pack that cavity 3/4 full during reassembly?

In LOW RANGE, the Center Differential locks. This locks the front and rear together and causes it to bind. It is for OFF ROAD USE ONLY. If it does not do it in HIGH RANGE it's because the CDL is unlocked in HR and it allows the F/R differentials to rotate independently of each other. Hence the term center DIFFERENTIAL.

Also, did they check the U-Joints while there?

If they don't understand the CDL, then find a new shop. I am totally serious here, not being sarcastic.

Look for the light on the dash. When going to LR, the CDL light will light up on the left side of the dash and the ABS light will also come on.
First of all...thanks for the straight forward input. Helps me understand this better.

The test drive in LR is on pavement but no faster than 3 to 5 mph. And the grinding/clunking starts when the wheel is turned (to about 30 degrees both l and r). There's no hopping or jumping...just smooth rolling. How can a test be done if not that way? Maybe they should put it up on the rack and then run it in LR and turn the wheels left and right?

Yes, he checked the u-joints and the spindle bushings.

Look, I'm a rookie here, so my questions are sincere. Are you saying that all 80s grind and clunk when put in LR on the pavement?

My rookie bet is that the birfields are shot. You agree that could be it or would they grind and clunk in HR too if that were the case?

Thanks again.

P.S. What's ABS?
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
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Location
Ventura County, CA
First of all...thanks for the straight forward input. Helps me understand this better.

The test drive in LR is on pavement but no faster than 3 to 5 mph. And the grinding/clunking starts when the wheel is turned (to about 30 degrees both l and r). There's no hopping or jumping...just smooth rolling. How can a test be done if not that way? Maybe they should put it up on the rack and then run it in LR and turn the wheels left and right?

Yes, he checked the u-joints and the spindle bushings.

Look, I'm a rookie here, so my questions are sincere. Are you saying that all 80s grind and clunk when put in LR on the pavement?

My rookie bet is that the birfields are shot. You agree that could be it or would they grind and clunk in HR too if that were the case?

Thanks again.

P.S. What's ABS?
Also, we're not using the front and back locking switch on the dash; just putting it in LR.
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
9,349
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
First of all...thanks for the straight forward input. Helps me understand this better.

The test drive in LR is on pavement but no faster than 3 to 5 mph. And the grinding/clunking starts when the wheel is turned (to about 30 degrees both l and r). There's no hopping or jumping...just smooth rolling. How can a test be done if not that way? Maybe they should put it up on the rack and then run it in LR and turn the wheels left and right?

Yes, he checked the u-joints and the spindle bushings.

Look, I'm a rookie here, so my questions are sincere. Are you saying that all 80s grind and clunk when put in LR on the pavement?

My rookie bet is that the birfields are shot. You agree that could be it or would they grind and clunk in HR too if that were the case?

Thanks again.

P.S. What's ABS?
ABS=Automatic Brake Sensing (When you stomp the brake pedal on wet surfaces and it pulses back) Some call it Anti-Lock Brakes.
I call it All Bull Sheet.

If he pulled the front axles to replace the differential bearings, then he should have cleaned inspected the Birfields before he reinstalled them. Damage and severe wear is obvious. Unless he didn't REALLY replace the differential bearings........

Sounds more and more like he is not the "expert" he sells himself as........

Ask him what torque he set the front wheel bearings at. If he tells you ANYTHING other than "25 to 35 LB-Ft", then he has no idea what he's doing.
 
Joined
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Messages
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ABS=Automatic Brake Sensing (When you stomp the brake pedal on wet surfaces and it pulses back) Some call it Anti-Lock Brakes.
I call it All Bull Sheet.

If he pulled the front axles to replace the differential bearings, then he should have cleaned inspected the Birfields before he reinstalled them. Damage and severe wear is obvious. Unless he didn't REALLY replace the differential bearings........

Sounds more and more like he is not the "expert" he sells himself as........

Ask him what torque he set the front wheel bearings at. If he tells you ANYTHING other than "25 to 35 LB-Ft", then he has no idea what he's doing.
So does the All Bull Shoot system just work when in LR...is that why the ABS light comes on?

Are the spindle bearings in the differential where the axle splines enter the diff?

Shouldn't the birfields be ahot after 244,000 miles?
 
Joined
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Messages
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So does the All Bull Shoot system just work when in LR...is that why the ABS light comes on?

Are the spindle bearings in the differential where the axle splines enter the diff?

Shouldn't the birfields be ahot after 244,000 miles?

The ABS System is rendered inoperable when you place it in low range because if the CDL is locked, it does not play well with ABS. Causes massive driveline binding and loss of control. In high range the ABS is fully operational because the CDL unlocked allows it to do that. The light comes on to tell you that it is NOT engaged.

For those of us that have added a CDL switch and done the Pin 7 mod, it allows us to lock the CDL in high range as well as keep it UNlocked in low range. Kinda handy when backing up a trailer up a hill on dry pavement.

The spindle bushings are inside the knuckle at each wheel pressed into the back of the front spindle that the front wheels ride on. They are exposed to the inside of the knuckle housing and should have the moly grease on them. Have to remove the front brakes, wheel hub, spindle to get to it. He had to do that to pull the axles to rebuild the bearings in your differential if he REALLY did that.

The Birfields may not be shot after 244K, depending on use and maintenance. Odds are, yes, but it depends on what the PO did to you and for you.

If in HIGH range with the CDL unlocked, you do tight circles in a parking lot on dry pavement, accelerate SLIGHTLY and you hear clicking in the front end, then your Birfields are worn. If you hear crunching, your Birfields are shot.

Mine were heavily worn at 225K but my truck had lived it's life prior to me on dry pavement with people that did NO maintenance. I bought RCV stock-version axles and Birfields from Slee and complete front axle rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters.
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
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Location
Ventura County, CA
The ABS System is rendered inoperable when you place it in low range because if the CDL is locked, it does not play well with ABS. Causes massive driveline binding and loss of control. In high range the ABS is fully operational because the CDL unlocked allows it to do that. The light comes on to tell you that it is NOT engaged.

For those of us that have added a CDL switch and done the Pin 7 mod, it allows us to lock the CDL in high range as well as keep it UNlocked in low range. Kinda handy when backing up a trailer up a hill on dry pavement.

The spindle bushings are inside the knuckle at each wheel pressed into the back of the front spindle that the front wheels ride on. They are exposed to the inside of the knuckle housing and should have the moly grease on them. Have to remove the front brakes, wheel hub, spindle to get to it. He had to do that to pull the axles to rebuild the bearings in your differential if he REALLY did that.

The Birfields may not be shot after 244K, depending on use and maintenance. Odds are, yes, but it depends on what the PO did to you and for you.

If in HIGH range with the CDL unlocked, you do tight circles in a parking lot on dry pavement, accelerate SLIGHTLY and you hear clicking in the front end, then your Birfields are worn. If you hear crunching, your Birfields are shot.

Mine were heavily worn at 225K but my truck had lived it's life prior to me on dry pavement with people that did NO maintenance. I bought RCV stock-version axles and Birfields from Slee and complete front axle rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters.
Looks like the problem is solved...turns out the birfields were shot.

I bought the RCV axles and birfields from Slee and they are being sent next day air to the shop.

Thanks for all your assistance. I'll give you a heads-up when the work is done and I'm back on the road.
 
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Messages
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Location
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So I replaced the birfs (used the Slee's) and all front differential bearings. Clunking and grinding in low range gone...all good.

Howl is still there though at 45+mph when not coasting (i.e. when drivetrain is under power). Disconnected/removed the front driveshaft and howl is gone which indicates to me that the pinion and ring gears in the front diff are the source of the howl. Worn.

So I figure i need to replace them and I've not got a clue as to whether to buy a fully assembled front diff or just the ring and pinion gears. Also I have no idea what gear ratio I need. And of course, where to get them.

Any advice/suggestions/crititisms would be greatly appreciated.
 
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