My legacy FZJ80

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Here is a link that has some good discussion of the fusible links and their function. Wits End has them new if you want to buy them and am sure your local toyota dealer could get them too if you want to go that route. On the 3rd or 4th page you can see what they look like but they are in their packaging still.

forum.ih8mud.com

With the shortage of fusible links...

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
G-Cat said:
Are the terminal connectors new? If so, are they the sort that are painted (1 black, 1 red)?
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I ask because I installed a set of red/black terminal connectors/clamps in a 1996 4Runner and experienced the same issues you are having.

It turns out that the connectors were painted on the inside (as well as outside) with red/black paint…causing an intermittent connection.

Swapped them out for bare metal connectors and the issue was fixed.
 
See, I knew i would get part of it wrong (terminology/naming of the links in this case). Here is a copy of what was said buy the electrical guru on mud - Johnheld:

"A US spec 80 Series has 3 fusible links. PINK, BLACK, and BLUE.

PINK is 30 amp (FL AM2)
BLACK is 80 amp (FL AM1)
BLUE is 100 amp (FL MAIN)"
 
cahill said:
Here is link to another thread that has some better photos taken from Wits End's website to give you a better idea of what they look like.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fu...ble-link-hacked-97-80-series.1170718/[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the direction . Frankly, this is all a bit confusing. Not sure if the right thing to do is just order the Wit's End fusable link (expected delivery date in April) or remove the fusable links altogether. Given my non-existent experience with this, I'm inclined to just replace what I have with new fusable link and keep a spare. Thoughts?
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Thanks for the direction . Frankly, this is all a bit confusing. Not sure if the right thing to do is just order the Wit's End fusable link (expected delivery date in April) or remove the fusable links altogether. Given my non-existent experience with this, I'm inclined to just replace what I have with new fusable link and keep a spare. Thoughts?


Also, can you point me to the location of the OBD connector? I'm looking at buying the Innova 6030 Code Reader .

Thanks.
 
Legacy80 said:
Thanks for the direction . Frankly, this is all a bit confusing. Not sure if the right thing to do is just order the Wit's End fusable link (expected delivery date in April) or remove the fusable links altogether. Given my non-existent experience with this, I'm inclined to just replace what I have with new fusable link and keep a spare. Thoughts?


Also, can you point me to the location of the OBD connector? I'm looking at buying the Innova 6030 Code Reader .

Thanks.
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Pick up two sets of fusible links from Wits' End. Don't change to other stuff unless you really know what you're doing. This is one truck that OEM is typically better than everything else.

The OBD2 port for the 97 is inside the fuse block panel by your left knee inside the cab.

Personally I use the UltraGauge OBD2 reader for my 96. I use it for tracking mileage, oil change miles, and watching my alternator and charging issues as well as engine temp.
 
I use a little obd2 bluetooth reader that connects to my tablet. I think it is called obdlink or something - bought it for 50 buck or something and works fine. I don't have it plugged in all the time but use it occasionally for codes, reading engine temp etc. I do use it on some trips - too but that is mostly dependent more on whether I wan to take the tablet with me. It does also work with android so if you have an android phone it would work with that too and probably be more convenient than a tablet. I mention this reader because it is a nice alternative to having something with wires that need to be routed to your final mounting location and is a cheaper option.

Also agree to just order fusible links from witsend - get 2 if your current one has failed so that you have a back up. You can test the fusible link you have with a voltmeter to see if it is working I would think.
 
Legacy80 said:
Thanks for the direction . Frankly, this is all a bit confusing. Not sure if the right thing to do is just order the Wit's End fusable link (expected delivery date in April) or remove the fusable links altogether. Given my non-existent experience with this, I'm inclined to just replace what I have with new fusable link and keep a spare. Thoughts?


Also, can you point me to the location of the OBD connector? I'm looking at buying the Innova 6030 Code Reader .

Thanks.
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I do prefer to use Mud vendors, but if your trying to get your Rig going you can order here for fast shipping and good customer Service.
90982-08264, GENUINE Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series 91-97 Fusible Link | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/325023695907
I also like this kit from LCP Land Cruiser Products - LCP - Battery Bracket Upgrade - https://sites.google.com/site/landcruiserproducts/battery-bracket-upgrade
 
Keeping the fusable links is easy and reliable. using the LCP relocation kit for the fusable links helps take the tension off them.
 
When you refer to the "LCP relocation kit for the fusable links" is that the same thing as the as the LCP Battery Bracket Upgrade kit linked above? Or something else?
 
Legacy80 said:
When you refer to the "LCP relocation kit for the fusable links" is that the same thing as the as the LCP Battery Bracket Upgrade kit linked above? Or something else?
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Yes it's really two kits in one, both are nice upgrades.

And yes I run them both
 
Looks like I need to replace my starter. There doesn't seem to be any shortage of sellers. Any suggestion from whom I ought to buy it ...a MUD vendor perhaps? Also, can someone tell me how I can tell if I have the "cold weather package"? Apparently, the starter is different with and without the cold weather package.

My FJZ80 was my brother's Montana vehicle and it does have the 110v plug for the engine block heater. It's here in CA now so no need for it except when I visit the colder climes, which is very seldom.
 
Door lock mystery...

So, the master door lock automatically engages when I shift from Park to Drive as I believe it is supposed to do. But as I am driving, when I turn the steering wheel back to the right after making a left turn or going around a left curve in the road, all of the doors unlock by themselves as if I hit the master unlock switch on the driver door switch panel. And then they stay unlocked. If I then relock the door with the master door lock switch, then as I come out of the next left turn or left curve, the doors unlock by themselves again. Only happens when the doors are locked and when straightening out after a left turn or left road curve. Doesn't happen with right turn or right curves.

Anyone out ther ever encounter this or have any ideas?

As always, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
My '97 80 Series did not auto-lock when put into drive. To my knowledge, that wasn't an option.
 
Legacy80 said:
Anyone out ther ever encounter this or have any ideas?
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Probably the port/dealer installed alarm or its wiring developing issues. Or another aftermarket alarm that was installed after the original went bad. They aren't built to the level of quality as the factory electronics in the vehicle.
 
My 97 FZJ80 sunroof leaks in the front right corner above the passinger seat. Anyone know where I can get solid info on how to correct the leak problem and get replacement parts for the sunroof if needed?
 
Legacy80 said:
My 97 FZJ80 sunroof leaks in the front right corner above the passinger seat. Anyone know where I can get solid info on how to correct the leak problem and get replacement parts for the sunroof if needed?
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have you cleaned the drains ?
 
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