My kind of DIY Fix: VSC Off and VSC Trac lights on

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Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Threads
43
Messages
237
Location
Cleveland Ohio
My VSC Off and VSC Trac lights were on. No fuses blown but CEL on for downstream O2 sensor (never interfered with VSC or Atrak before) P light not working on dash but RNDL still working. Backlighting for shifter burned out. Tried all of the paper clip on under hood diagnostic port and zero point reset stuff (it worked as described but did not solve VSC lights) Dealer said $600 (after $80 for scan) would replace the PNP switch which might move the problem but might just be the first step towards a new ECU (F me and my wallet). Since I do not have a spare $2800, I started to research everything.

HERE IS WHAT FIXED MY VSC AND ATRAK SYSTEMS:

HAMMER FIST THE TOP OF THE DASH. YEP, SIT IN THE DRIVER'S SEAT, LIFT YOUR RIGHT HAND, MAKE A FIST WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND, HIT THE DASH ON THE HUMP PART AT ABOUT 12:30 AS HARD AS YOU CAN (AT LEAST AS HARD AS I COULD, YOU ARE PROBABLY STRONGER) VSC AND ATRAK ALL BETTER.

Here is what happened, my theory, but I had it before i started pounding. Replacing your dash lights with LEDs will make your VSC Off and VSC Trak lights come on. However, you do not need to pull all of the LEDs, some people have been OK with some of the dash lights OEM and some LED. I think that replacing the P or the R light will screw up VSC. I also know that lots of people have the D light out without any VSC problems. I think that a burned out P or N light, or an LED P or N, and maybe R, light will throw off the voltage and the VSC ECU will disable the system because of the voltage irregularity. So, if your dash P or R or N light is out, and your VSC off and VSC Trak light is on, give the punching of the dash a try. It is well known that this technique will get the lights working, and for me at least, my VSC is up and working again.
 
Did you screw the two dash connector screws back fully after bulb replacement? This can send a faulty signal. I had a VSC light come one after fiddling with the dash only to correctly tighten and have it go away.
 
Nope just pounded on it with my fist. But I did not replace the bulb, I just read that hitting the dash will reseat the bulbs.
 
I installed LEDs in the cluster including the PRN2L ("D" is burned out and not replaced) and I also replaced the CDL indicator bulb in the cluster. I have a code 47 indicating a CDL fault and haven't been able to trace the source. The center diff works fine and the indicator light works indicating locked but still have the code.

My theory is (was) that the CDL has a voltage sensing aspect that detects whether there is continuity at the indicator and that the LED (being a diode after all) prevents voltage detection when the CDL is not engaged? I hadn't considered the gear indicators in the cluster (also now LEDs) and many here seem to have replaced those without trouble.

I've double checked the cluster screws and had all sorts intermittent dash functionality/idiot lights lit. I discovered that the other end of the harness in the driver's left kick panel was loose. However, no amount of banging turns my VSC/TRACS lights off and it's always the same code.

Anyone have any thoughts? I'm hoping I don't have to pull the cluster again.
 
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