My Journey to codes P1125 and P1128 (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Oct 25, 2014
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2
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Location
Puget Sound
Hi everyone,

1999 Toyota Landcruiser 4.7L V8

I'm posting this in the hopes that it will help someone out there. I am currently having codes P1125 and P1128 and I think it's my Throttle Control Motor. I referenced this page.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/p1128-throttle-control-motor-malfunction.166808/#post-5382539

Please, provide any other ideas. I have not changed TCM yet, but is next on my list.

It all started 3 weeks ago when I broke down about a mile away from my house. I had been having problems with my starter contacts and the starter teeth grinding. Somehow, I broke my alarm off my key and stuck it in my pocket. Guess what? Car wouldn't start. Had it towed home. Later found out about the magnetic transponder that needs to be up to the ignition. It's in the first 5 or so pages in the manual that I never read. I got a new key and had the master. No problems. $185 for key at Tacoma, WA dealer 105 to program. This was with the alarm.

I changed my starter. That back bolt was a bitch like everyone said. I broke the knock sensor = $100 bucks. Starter was Bosch and costs $200.

While I had the manifold off, I cleaned it, but did not bother with the throttle body as this looked clean. I just wiped it down = mistake that I found out later.

I put it all back together and I ended up breaking the water temperature sensor near the passenger side/front part of manifold = $20 or $30 bucks. Broke the sensor right next to that. It's a little smaller = $22 bucks. Okay! Everything worked.

Next day, was too tired to do oil change. Therefore brought it to the dealer = $55 bucks. Drove out of there and went about 3-4 miles and car went into limp mode = frick! Pulled over to the side of the road and had code reader. Reader read = P0120. Turned off car and then code came back on. This is very scary on the freeway. Decided to floor it and Landcruiser went one speed = Fast. Made it home which was about 15 miles. My headlight also went out when I left the dealer. I think this was coincidence.

I started reading the forum. Decided to change the Aps sensor ($225). That code went away. Now I was getting some other codes. Something about dirty throttle body and TPS. I changed the TPS sensor ($90 because I wanted it right away) and then those codes went away. Then I took the throttle body off and cleaned the heck out of it. I should have cleaned it when I took the manifold off. I also should have changed the Apps Sensor and TPS sensor while the throttle body was off. I suggest you do this step and clean and test it. I put back together unhooked the efi fuse and battery...Everything started right up and sounds good. But, I still have to floor it to get any fuel to the engine. Also, the idle went from like 1000 rpm to 1400 rpm. I'm still messing with the TPS sensor positioning.

So....now I am getting P1125 and P1128.

Am I on the right track in changing the Throttle Control Motor next?

Also if you don't know where the TPS is....it is on the driver's side front part of the manifold underneath some hoses. Thanks!
 
Got the new throttle control motor and replaced.

Still throwing codes 1120 and 1125.

I may have installed the TPS sensor wrong. It is idling extremely high.

I moved the TPS and it is still idling high, but lower. I still think it might be installed wrong.

I messed with the APPS sensor and now throwing P0120, P1120 and P1125.

That means = APPS, TPS SENSOR, and THROTTLE CONTROL MOTOR SENSOR?

I just am at a loss. Still in limp mode.

I'm looking at the connections now. I figured I was doing good with no 0120 code, but now i'm getting that code....frick.

I''m going to look at the sensors again tomorrow with a multimeter and see if anything is bad...if not then looking at new Throttle Control Body.
 
okay...i parked the car in the garage and was able to get just the hood part in. the roof rack too tall to fit whole lc in. sorry, just rambling. I been out there for another 5 hours partly in the rain.

So, i took off the sensor to the apps and cleaned the bejesus out of it. I then used the end of a file and scraped the connectors really good. no more P1120 – APPS CODE!!!!!

I did the same to throttle control motor sensor (not the new part but the old part)....no more P1125!

I adjusted TPS sensor like every which way you could and i kept throwing code P0120. I was getting high revs, low to no start and then like someone was pushing the gas from 1 to 4k rpm then again...

So code reader is now pulling P0120....This is the original code i think I started out with!!! WTFRICK??? So, I was not able to get this sensor off. It was too late and too dark. This sensor i got from autozone and its a duralast. i decided to order a toyota one from stealership. $93 bucks + tax = $102.

I'm going to clean the heck out of that sensor also, because I think it was working at one point and then just went very haywire. i think that I may be in need of some new wires/connectors in there. the old ones are def worn out a bit. I have like 199k miles. but it still ran like a champ, no other major probs except o2 sensor. guy before me changed the timing belt @ 134k at the dealer. cost him like $1800 bucks.

i changed the front and rear rotors and pads by myself, twice. i ordered from brake motive $250 all around. the first time i did not tighten caliper all the way and then when it went to stop the caliper came off. so, ordered new front rotors? the only problem with changing front rotors is that they are reversed drilled and you have to take off the hubs. if anyone reading, will let you guys know about new TPS sensor from Toyota as Duralast is getting returned to Autozone.

I think I'm going to remove that throttle body one more time and see if I can clean all sensors and place TPS in there without effin with all the wires and hoses. It's kind of a pain in the ass to replace that while still attached to the manifold.
 
I cleaned everything and still got the CEL. still pulling code P0120. still in limp mode. I have now changed the TPS sensor twice the second time with a Toyo part.

I did all of the checks with a multimeter and found the ohms from the ECU was getting a .7 when it should have been lower.

I have ruled out TPS, APS, and Unit Motor Control.

I just ordered a new ECU with keys and tumbler for $247 used. I am hoping this does the trick. It will take 3 days to get here.

Will let you know if this works.
 

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