My BJ70 - Beautiful From Far, but Far From Beautiful (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 26, 2023
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8
Messages
45
Location
Auckland
Gday all, just joined the forum.

This past weekend I purchased a BJ70 which has lived a very rough and very storied life after longing for one for quite some time. Many interior trim pieces are missing/damaged, and the body panels are a mix of paint, bog and rust. However, she runs and is mechanically/structurally pretty sound. It has a very heavy layer of khaki paint which was applied at some stage in the last few years. I love the colour, but there are lots of paint runs, and areas where it was sprayed over onto seals and trim.

I am just beginning on my Cruiser journey, and have accepted the fact that a significant amount of time and cash needs to be invested to get it where I want it.

Rolling on 32x12.5 tyres on 15 inch rims. I don't plan to (deliberately) do any hardcore off-roading with it, so one of my plans is to ditch these for some all-terrains or road tyres. Once my blood is feeling a bit more rich, I might take it further into The Danger Zone.

I have already replaced the electrical connector for the reverse light switch on the transmission. My jobs for the near future include:
  • Treat any rust areas to prevent dramatic growth before any more extensive repairs
  • Remove gross silicone repair jobbie on windscreen and replace with appropriate adhesive
  • Adjust significant freeplay / slop out of steering
  • Replace burnt out blower thermistor so that it works on settings other than max
  • Grease all hinges, throttle and clutch springs, door handles and latches so that they're not quite so tight
  • Change transmission fluid to hopefully do away with marginally crunchy shifting (and not need to get too mechanically involved)
  • Acquire rear seatbelts to match with the shed-stored seats.
  • Extensive carpet and seat shampooing to clear out the caked mud
  • Adjust rear left door to remove visible airgap
  • Adjust/replace hood rests so that it doesn't bounce as I'm going along the motorway
  • ...and many more
I'm fortunately quite well equipped with machine shop and welding equipment access, and quite happy to take on repairs.

I don't know a lot about Cruisers, and even less about diesel engines, so keen for any gems of wisdom from you old sages.

The Cruiser.jpeg
cruiser rear.jpg
 
Welcome to the madness 😆
Looks nice ... from a distance.
- What year and engine is it?

I recommend you to first focus on mechanical tlc and safety:
Get the appropriate workshop manual and go over the maintenance checklist.
- Replace all fluids. (Incl brake and clutch hydraulics)
- Replace all filters (Air, fuel, oil)
- Full grease job. (Plan is in manual)
- Check into all brakes.
- Check drivetrain play ( Flanges, propshafts and U-joints)
- Check wheel bearing play and condition of knuckles (Leaking)?. If no issue here: Leave alone by now, but at some point getting into it with some fresh grease would be good.
(Learn about 'The knuckle job').
- Check steering gear.
- Make sure axle- and diff breathers are not clogged.
- Go over all fluid lines (incl coolant hoses) and check for issues, deformations, bridle rubber.
- Visually inspect tank and filler.
- Go over the electric harness: Check under the dash for any fancy DIY installations of any PO and check for bridle / molten connectors and insulation.
- Check / clean all your ground cables, battery terminal and terminals on starter and alternator.

Engine tlc depends on type and how It runs.
- Check and address any leaks.
- Replace timing belt (if applicable)
- Consider Valve clearance adjustment.
- Check visco clutch.
- Grease/ lube mechanical moving parts on throttle, EDIC, wiper...

When it comes to rust:
Take out the capet (you can't thoroughly shampoo it inside the car anyway) and check footwells. Also gives access to the harness to the rear.
Take off the inner door trim cards and side panel trim. This gives access to the inner wheel wells rear and the door interior locking- and window-mechanism you want to grease.

Good Luck and Have fun!
Cheers Ralf
 
Last edited:
Not sure of your budget and the journey you want to take and why. Some thoughts:

1) if you want to grow in your rust/ paint body skills and this is a challenge you want, go for it. If not I would focus on mechanicals and drive it. Does not look too rusty from pics you shared. Focus on safety repairs if anything.

2) if you are not into body work, consider getting a better starting point to enjoy your cruiser journey. There many examples out there where folks did not pause to know what they were getting into and would have saved time and $ had they started with something better. Again, looks like what you list does not warrant big repairs.

3) Making it showroom has many not wanting to drive and use it as they should. To each their own. If you want to take it places without much worry, keep it practical.

4) Desiel engine health.
- Do a cold start and open oil filler cap and place it back on without threading it on. You should not see it bouncing up and down due to air/exhaust. You should not see blowby. If you do, adjust valves and check again. If still persists, you likely need a top end rebuild.
- Do a compression check.
- Do a cooling system overhaul.
- Change your air filter regularly.
- Do oil change.
 
Hello,

Nice truck.

Get skinny tires, 10.5 in. or less. Less rubbing.





Juan
 
Welcome to the madness 😆
Looks nice ... from a distance.
- What year and engine is it?

I recommend you to first focus on mechanical tlc and safety:
Get the appropriate workshop manual and go over the maintenance checklist.
- Replace all fluids. (Incl brake and clutch hydraulics)
- Replace all filters (Air, fuel, oil)
- Full grease job. (Plan is in manual)
- Check into all brakes.
- Check drivetrain play ( Flanges, propshafts and U-joints)
- Check wheel bearing play and condition of knuckles (Leaking)?. If no issue here: Leave alone by now, but at some point getting into it with some fresh grease would be good.
(Learn about 'The knuckle job').
- Check steering gear.
- Make sure axle- and diff breathers are not clogged.
- Go over all fluid lines (incl coolant hoses) and check for issues, deformations, bridle rubber.
- Visually inspect tank and filler.
- Go over the electric harness: Check under the dash for any fancy DIY installations of any PO and check for bridle / molten connectors and insulation.
- Check / clean all your ground cables, battery terminal and terminals on starter and alternator.

Engine tlc depends on type and how It runs.
- Check and address any leaks.
- Replace timing belt (if applicable)
- Consider Valve clearance adjustment.
- Check visco clutch.
- Grease/ lube mechanical moving parts on throttle, EDIC, wiper...

When it comes to rust:
Take out the capet (you can't thoroughly shampoo it inside the car anyway) and check footwells. Also gives access to the harness to the rear.
Take off the inner door trim cards and side panel trim. This gives access to the inner wheel wells rear and the door interior locking- and window-mechanism you want to grease.

Good Luck and Have fun!
Cheers Ralf
Crazy week, forgot to respond! It's a 1985 with the run of the mill 3B engine. 24 volts, so a little quirky.
Had the front end up today, the drivetrain, steering and suspension seem to be in surprisingly good shape. I did discover that the front left wheel bearing has a decent amount of play in it. Going to try and adjust that out once I have the 54mm(?) socket for the hub nut.

Got the radiator cap off, and it's looking a bit like chocolate milk in there (expansion tank is normal green), so I'm putting that job further up the list than the other fluid changes. Going to completely flush and refill next weekend most likely.
 
Hi
I have all manuals for that model year and engine available.
I read your other thread on the wheel play. Guess you'll need them.
I’ll PM you.
Cheers Ralf
 

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