My Aisan secret setting

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Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Threads
33
Messages
823
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Well, I guess many enthusiasts are the same as I am in a symbiotic relationship with my FJ40. These are not only big words, I am sure she "knows" who's in the saddle and I definitely feel her smallest resonations.
Nevertheless I have rebuilt her carby to the utmost detail using oem plunger and other japanese stuff not to spare any effort. The rebuild process is very straight forward as far as the cleaning, jets, gaskets, etc. goes. The more interesting part is setting the floating buoy. I have followed FSM of course and adjusted the hell out my eyes nearly fell out but finally got there. I set it to whatever value the clearance were given in the book.
Of course she didn't like the left turn down the road and as soon as I hit any sharp curve to the left she started coughing untill she cought up with the straight road again. Fuel too low in the carby. I could barely see the fuel in the check glass.
Along the last two years I had taken the carby apart about 5-6 times. Using two kits just to test various plungers.
Even the same brand (fuelmaster) would have two different plungers in the same kit. I almost gave up and in for a new carburetor. I am an oem guy so it was not a small decision.
Just before I truly at the very brink of decision making, I said I pull it apart again. And see what idea I came up with..
This time I have not looked any FSM, I knew the carby off head in the middle of the night anyway. But I thought this is no different from the toilet water tank. So I took the carby and filled the tank with fuel. I removed the airhorn gasket and all the plungers that were in the way. I wanted to test the go-no go position of the floating buoy. Actually its blow/no-blow. I kept adjusting the buoy until the desired fuel level. Amazingly it has worked.
No need to follow the value given in the FSM as components like the plunger that is imperative to these values are clearly variables.
The key is to find the no-blow position where the buoy will lift (tank is full) and close the plunger. The second photo points the core of the buoy, the little metal stopper to be bent up or down in order to adjust the height of the buoy. FSM compares this height to the airhorn inner surface. As I mentioned it all depends on the plunger and the nut and all the components that are not consistent. Therefore it is no wonder the value did not work when I tried to adjust the buoy.
I went with try and error on the bench with a filled tank trying to blow through the inlet. I found the point when I could not blow air through the inlet while the tank was full. And then gradually I removed fuel to see when the buoy in the lowest position opens the plunger. I have allowed this at the lowest position using spongy cloth to suck up some fuel so I could percisely remove from the tank. In between these two points the plunger is open and the fuel level stay consistently between the marks of the check glass.
It works perfectly, the engine idles and keeps the fuel level right in the centre line of the checking glass as it supposed to be.
I wonder if anyone else adjusted the buoy this way, I mean to disregard the FSM and follow common sense of open/close of the valve?

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So, in your final analysis, just how far off from the factory suggested float settings are you, and what of your parts are OEM Toyota or from aftermarket carb kits?
Totally off, I mean nowhere near factory values! .. I don't have the FSM with me now its at the workshop but from ny memory its 0.43' between the airhorn surface and the upside down "hanging" buoy. Take a look at the photo there is barely any gap now. Its all depends the little brass plunger and the nut holding it. Also there are aluminium or copper washers under That nut bolted to the airhorn. Those thicknesses also may vary. The FSM brings that plunger different from what was in the kit. The stock plunger seems larger.
I have used fuelmeister plunger as I found oem none, however I would believe even the oem would vary.
Anyway, in my opinion the key is not to follow the FSM value but to set the buoy in a way it will control the fuel flow so that the level of fuel in the container stays constantly between the marks in the glass. The upmost level set should close the valve (plunger).

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I will go to my grave reminding people the FSM is not the bible; it is a handy reference ONLY.

Factory float settings will get you in the ballpark. Not the same as a home run.

My D40 1bbl actually proved harder to set than my 2bbl. I ended up finding the perfect Off camber slope on a shady trail, stalled and reset it three times to find the perfect pitch point...for that float, that needle and seat, and that fuel bowl. No assumptions.

Best

Mark

www.marksoffroad.net
 
Hey Mark!,
I know what you mean..first page of the FSM should read "try other ways if results unacceptable" :)
All I wanted to show here is this atep by step procedure and not to give up..:
- pull the airhorn and take off the plungers
- fill the container with fuel about glass level
- put back the airhorn without screws and check level
- add or remove fuel to set your top level with the float in the fuel
- once top level set blow the inlet hole
- Air should not pass, other words the float should close the plunger
- remove some fuel and check if air passes (plunger should be open)
Repeat this untill your desired level of fuel in relation to go/nogo or blow/noblow.
- assemble the carby
 
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