My 82 pick up (1 Viewer)

[Dedtruk]

Still running stock gears with the 33s? Looks good BTW, me likely. Use good moly grease in your Birfs when you rebuild the front end. I swear that's what has kept mine alive and I run 33s with an ARB up front (and 4.88s which I wish were 5.29s for the 35s I want).

 

[jsfgso]

I used regular black grease in the birfields and red grease on the hubs and bearings. that was how i did it on the fj80, we'll see how it holds up. I have just started this build and I do plan on putting in some gears, probabley 4.88's, lift kit, lockers, dual t-case, and flatbed or bobbed bed. I already had the tires and could not wait to install them. Im going to test it out in stock form this weekend on some local trails

 

[jsfgso]

Finally got some time to go off road. Mostly hill climbs on wet clay, i was really impressed with the amount of grip i get from the super swampers. Not so impressed with the rubbing. I am going to try to install the lift springs that I have lying around in the next couple of weeks.

I do plan on doing gears and a rear locker in the near term. I am keeping my eye out for a 4.88 carrier at a junkyard and a used aussie locker. The truck really struggles out on the road, especially long hills.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Just a thought but..... It seems as though you can lift a toyota to the moon and always still rub on the corner of the cab. The simplest way to correct this is to move your front axle forward. There are a couple of ways to do that but using rear springs kills two birds. One it lifts it I think about 3 inches and secondly it pushes your front end forward ???? Um like two inches. You would need a driveline extended obviously and most likely would have to trim the front of your lower fender where it looks like your valance is already removed so it would actually look good cut. Or you could redrill your spring perches to relocate your front forward an inch and a quarter is the best I have found to stay away from the stock hole but not go to far. The only obstacle to tackle is redrilling the upper ubolt pad as it is stamped and wavy..... I can not clearly recall I would need to walk outside and look at my stock pads as everytime I have ever done this I have done a u-bolt flip at the same time so I built new pads that I drilled accordingly. I am a firm believer that you do not have to relocate the front hanger when using rear springs up front but you do need the "boomerang" type shackles to aid in clearing the body mount. They can be purchased at sky manufacturing if you decide to go that route. I am not sure how far you can go with a factory box. I think I recall I went 1.5 or 2" on my first yota with the stock box and had no clearance on stock linkage issues.

EDIT: But I suppose I do not know your intent so if you are simply trying to trail cruise then you should be fine with a bit more lift and maybe limit your uptravel with bump stops???? I am speaking more from a want to not ever care about rubbing with 33s type standpoint

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Remember that rear springs up front will move the axle forward 2.25 to 2.5 inches. I used stock steering for a while but my truck my not very fun to drive on the street. Cross-over steering will solve this problem. I ended up adding a Rancho add-a-leaf and got 4 inches of lift with pretty good flex. Good luck.

I just found this so I would wait for others feedback on the stock box with rear springs. Again I have gone 1.25 -1.5" and I had zero issues. My current yota has rears up front but I also went to an IFS box that I pushed as far forward as possible. So it may still be possible if the above info is correct to redrill your perches oposite and use rears to go 2.25-2.5 minus the 1.25-1.5 redrill leaving yourself with your front end forward a little and free lift (minus the cost of shackles). It is a good idea to add a leaf to the rear pack plus remove the overload so maybe it isnt free assuming you do not have multiple rear packs laying around... Ok I will shut up now

 

[jsfgso]

Thanks for the input. I had seen some write ups on moving the axle forward and/or using rear springs up front. I currently have 2.5" front lift springs and rear add-a-leafs, thats why I was planning on going that route for now. This is a slow build and I will be trying different set ups as my time and budget allow.

 

[jsfgso]

front lift

I got the front springs installed over the weekend. Just have to get some new brake lines made and put shocks in. Any suggestions on shocks, particularly part #'s that I can take to the local advance/autozone/o'rieleys?

 

[Combat Chuck]

Shocks- i buy whatever's cheapest.

 

[jsfgso]

Thats what i'm trying to do, they were not much help at autozone when it came to finding a longer shock to compensate for the lift.

 

[Combat Chuck]

I'm running Ranchos right now, and the do the job.
Their prices are good, and IIRC, they're made in the same sweatshop as the OMEs.

 

[jsfgso]

I found a set of pro-comp shocks. They are for 2.5-3" lifted trucks. $60 at 4wheel parts. The part # is 121518 for the front.

I also got a company called Alliance Hose and Tube Works here in Greensboro to make me new brake lines. They made them out of braided stainless hose and the exact same hardware as the factory. It only took them 20 minutes and cost $40.

 

[Combat Chuck]

Nice! Great price on the Procomps.

Just FYI, with the braided steel lines, they can blister and rupture really easily. Basically, the teflon inner tube can tear due to wear from the steel cladding, and then pressurized brake fluid can form a "tumor" between the steel and tubing. Few Braided steel lines are DOT approved because they don't stand up to long-term use. You'll be fine as long as you check them frequently; like every oil change.

 

[4x4yota]

as far as shocks I run 91 jeep YJ shocks and they work for my lift and have plenty of travel and only cost $18-$20 each at ether autozone or oriley they measure about 14" collapsed and 24" extended

 

[jsfgso]

I took the truck to uwharrie and was impressed with its ability. Although a dirty fuel filter cut the trip short, now its running fine. I am planning on putting gears and a rear lockright next.

 

[Combat Chuck]

sounds good!
I so want your mirrors!

 

[jsfgso]

I went back down to uwharrie on saturday to test out the truck. I could not get it stuck, even with stock gears and no lockers. I am really pleased with this project so far.

Any advice on usefull mods/upgrades from more experienced owners would be appreciated.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Marlin Crawler Transfer case gears make everything easier.... Loosing stock low range can suck a little, but not bad enough to not go with the 4.7's!

 

[85+92]

Rear spool and efi

 

[jsfgso]

I finally had some time to work on the truck again. I picked up a lockright a few months ago and just got it installed. Now I just have to re-install the diff and go out for a trail test. The install was much easier than I expected it to be.