My 2006 LC100 170K Baselining Project (1 Viewer)

take123 · Feb 10, 2024

I recently bought a 2006 Land Cruiser with around 170K Miles. Changed the oil and drove it 3K miles no issues so far. Car is not rusted so thats good. Today I bought the following parts below in the table below.

The plan I have is to first replace the timing belt and accessories while at it, i.e. the water pump and alternator and starter and tensioners and idlers and thermostat and heater T's and other piping and clamps. Will replace the spark plugs, but couldn't find the ignition coils at a good price and those are quite expensive, will do the ignition coils in a few months. The prior owner didn't know if they replaced the timing belt, so kind of cringe.

I will then be replacing the CV Axles and the bearings, rotors, and brakes with new ones as they are leaking and worn, the previous owner used non OEM brakes so want to swap those out. Will do a flush of the fluids. After this the rig should be suited for some road trips, and the other maintenance items are more cosmetic or interior related work to renew the truck, for example my steering wheel doesn't remember its set position when I turn it on, and the steer wheel in/out motor doesn't work but the up/down motor works. The glove box is kind of loose and jiggly, needs to be fixed. The trunk needs new struts , and some window gaskets can be replaced with newer ones, and the rear spoiler could use some new clear coat.

I spent some time looking up part numbers on the Forums and the Partsouq site helped a lot. I procured my parts from Partsouq by default, and used ToyotaPartsDeal and Olathe if I found a cheaper price or if Partsouq was out of stock. Sometimes Partsouq was more expensive and sometimes some heavier parts are better bought in USA dealers due to shipping prices. Let's hope my part orders all arrive correctly with no issues (finger cross).

It's my first time baselining a project this large, so I may have missed something or got something wrong. Here's the full list, total so far around $5500 including taxes/shipping. Hopefully the list helps other enthusiasts.

Engine Sections:

Subsection	Part Number	Part Name	Code	?Partsouq	Price	Qty	PiceLower?	Place Buy
Camshaft & Valve	1350550030	IDLER SUB-ASSY, TIMING BELT, NO.1			52.36	1
Camshaft & Valve	1355650010	SHAFT, TIMING BELT IDLER			4.05	1
Camshaft & Valve	9020110101	Washer Plate			2.13	1
Camshaft & Valve	1354050030	TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1			40.73	1
Camshaft & Valve	1356859095	BELT, TIMING			73.07	1	58.93	ToyotaPartsDeal
Camshaft & Valve	1350350011	IDLER SUB-ASSY, TIMING BELT, NO.2			52.97	1
Camshaft & Valve	90311-71002	FRONT CAM SEAL			21.78	2
Camshaft & Valve	90311-A0001	FRONT CRANK SEAL		NOT AVAIL		1	13.09	ToyotaPartsDeal
Engine Oil Cooler	9046720011	CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)			1.82	6
Engine Oil Cooler	1628150030	HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.4			5.77	1
Engine Oil Cooler	1576750101	PIPE, OIL COOLER		NOT AVAIL	23.9	1	47.36	ToyotaPartsDeal
Engine Oil Cooler	1577750030	HOSE, OIL COOLER			14.16	1

Water Pump	1610059275	PUMP ASSY, ENGINE WATER (inc. gasket)			144.58	1	117.32	Olathe
Water Pump	16271-0F010	WATER PUMP GASKET		NOT AVAIL		1	8	ToyotaPartsDeal
Water Pump	1630750012	BRACKET SUB-ASSY, FAN			128.84	1
Water Pump	1621050101	COUPLING ASSY, FLUID (fan clutch)			186.47	1	102	ToyotaPartsDeal
Water Pump	1660450030	PULLEY SUB-ASSY, IDLER, NO.2			42.54	1
Water Pump	1665950022	PLATE, IDLER PULLEY COVER, NO.1			2.34	1
Water Pump	166200W100	TENSIONER ASSY, V-RIBBED BELT		NOT AVAIL	68.78	1	75.02	ToyotaPartsDeal

Radiator and Water Outlet	1671150090	SHROUD, FAN		ship expensive	88.47	1	125.08	ToyotaPartsDeal
Radiator and Water Outlet	1636150170	Fan			162.66	1	146	ToyotaPartsDeal
Radiator and Water Outlet	9046743002	CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET)			3.16	1
Radiator and Water Outlet	1657250150	HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.2			20.95	1
Radiator and Water Outlet	9046741002	CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER HOSE)		NOT AVAIL	3.66	3	6.87	ToyotaPartsDeal
Radiator and Water Outlet	1657150150	HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.1			14.83	1
Radiator and Water Outlet	1626150140	HOSE, WATER BY-PASS			4.39	1
Radiator and Water Outlet	9613741501	CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR RADIATOR RESERVE TANK HOSE NO.3)		NOT AVAIL	1.68	2	3.13	ToyotaPartsDeal
Radiator and Water Outlet	1620650170	PIPE SUB-ASSY, WATER BY-PASS		NOT AVAIL	28.21	1	63.84	ToyotaPartsDeal
Radiator and Water Outlet	9676124019	RING, O			1.71	1
Radiator and Water Outlet	1640050290	RADIATOR ASSY			1181.47	1	481.66	Olathe

V Belt	9091602585	BELT, V(FOR FAN & ALTERNATOR)			75.34	1	44.85	ToyotaPartsDeal

Manifold	1717150030	GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD TO HEAD, NO.1			7.87	2

Air Injection System	1734250180	HOSE, NO.2(FOR AIR INJECTION SYSTEM)			24.5	1
Air Injection System	9613642901	CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE)		NOT AVAIL	2.28	2	4.33	ToyotaPartsDeal
Air Injection System	176000F010	PUMP ASSY, AIR		not buy this too $	468.86	1	444.43	Olathe
Air Injection System	1734150180	HOSE, NO.1(FOR AIR INJECTION SYSTEM)			11.64	1

Ignition & Spark	9091902249	COIL ASSY, IGNITION		NOT AVAIL	78.08	8	wait it out
Ignition & Spark	9091901210	PLUG, SPARK			11.51	8	9	Toyota Parts Deal
Alternator	2706050360	ALTERNATOR ASSY			1127.05	1	310	Toyota Parts Deal
Starter	2810050101	STARTER ASSY			591.87	1	218	Olathe
THERM	90916-03100	THERMOSTAT			15.32	1
THERM	16346-50010	THERMOSTAT GASKET			2.66	1
Heater T's	87248-60460	Heater T			5.52	2
Air Filter	1780150040	Air Filter				1	20	Toyota Parts Deal
Oil Pan	90341-12023	PLUG(FOR OIL PAN DRAIN)			2.83	2
Oil Pan	9043012031	GASKET(FOR OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG)			0.68	10

Drive Train Sections:

Subsection	Part Number	Part Name	Code	?Partsouq	Price	Qty	PiceLower?	Place Buy
CV Axles	43430-60040	Shaft Assembly, Front Drive, Right				2	370.64	ToyotaPartsDeal
Diff Seals	9031147013	OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, LH			9.65	1
Diff Seals	9031147012	OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, RH				1	15	ToyotaPartsDeal
Diff	12157-10010	Diff crush washer, get extra			0.54	6
Diff	90430-18008	Transfer case crush washer, get extra			0.56	3
Front Rotor	4342260070	GASKET, FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT FLANGE, RH/LH			1.12	2
Front Rotor	4342335010	CAP, FRONT AXLE HUB GREASE, RH/LH			2.1	2
Front Rotor	4342160030	FLANGE, FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT, RH/LH		Out of stock	46.01	2	66.61	ToyotaPartsDeal
Front Rotor	9021542025	WASHER, FRONT WHEEL ADJUSTING LOCK, RH/LH			1.43	2
Front Rotor	9021442030	WASHER, CLAW (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB),RH/LH			2.21	2
Front Rotor	4232360030	WASHER, CONE (FOR FRONT AXLE SHAFT),RH/LH			0.79	12
Front Rotor	9052031005	RING, DRIVE SHAFT SNAP, RH/LH			1.38	2
Front Rotor	9017010039	NUT, HEXAGON			0.68	12
Front Rotor	9020110075	WASHER			0.69	12
Front Rotor	9011610201	BOLT, STUD (FOR FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT FLANGE),RH/LH			0.9	12
Front Rotor	4352160011	NUT, FRONT WHEEL ADJUSTING, RH/LH			4.19	4
Front Rotor	9008036098	BEARING (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER),RH/LH			48.12	2
Front Rotor	9008036067	BEARING (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB OUTER),RH/LH		Out of stock	32.52	2	55.2	Olathe
Front Rotor	9031170011	SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB),RH/LH			18.19	2
Front Rotor	4351260170	DISC, FRONT		Out of stock	166.16	2	72.79	ToyotaPartsDeal
Front Rotor	9094202077	Bolt, Hub		not buy this too $	4.69	10
Front Rotor	9025010032	PIN, STRAIGHT (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB),RH/LH			0.82	4
Front Rotor	9010512174	BOLT, HEXAGON(FOR REAR CALIPER)			1.1	10

Rear Rotor	9031058002	SEAL, OIL (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT),RH/LH			5.77	2
Rear Rotor	4242360030	RETAINER, REAR AXLE BEARING, INNER, RH/LH			8.39	2
Rear Rotor	4351760020	ROTOR, SKID CONTROL, REAR			8.81	2
Rear Rotor	9052044038	RING, SNAP (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT),RH/LH			1.46	2
Rear Rotor	4242360040	RETAINER, REAR AXLE BEARING, INNER, RH/LH			13.73	2
Rear Rotor	9020848002	WASHER (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT),RH/LH			2.25	2
Rear Rotor	9036948001	BEARING (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT),RH/LH			92.9	2
Rear Rotor	9030185004	RING, O (FOR REAR AXLE BEARING CASE),RH/LH			2.46	2
Rear Rotor	4242160040	CASE, REAR AXLE BEARING, RH			59.29	1
Rear Rotor	4242160030	CASE, REAR AXLE BEARING, LH			59.64	1
Rear Rotor	9031362001	SEAL, OIL (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT OUTER)			6.65	2
Rear Rotor	9017912118	NUT(FOR BACKING PLATE TO REAR AXLE HOUSING SETTING)			0.77	8
Rear Rotor	9011412036	BOLT (FOR REAR AXLE BEARING CASE)		Out of stock		8	2.38	ToyotaPartsDeal
Rear Rotor	9094202077	HUB BOLT		not buy this too $	5	10
Rear Rotor	4244160050	DEFLECTOR, BRAKE DRUM OIL, RH/LH			16.88	2
Rear Rotor	4244360020	GASKET, BRAKE DRUM OIL DEFLECTOR, RH/LH			5.69	2
Rear Rotor	4243160280	DISC, REAR			176.49	2	92.74	ToyotaPartsDeal
	4749122020	PLUG, HOLE(FOR REAR SUSPENSION ARM)			1.24	2

Front Brakes	446560230	Disk Pad Set Front				1	80	Olathe
Front Brakes	494560010	Shim Kit Anti Squeel Front			60.79	1
Front Brakes	494760100	FITTING KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT				1	3	ToyotaPartsDeal
Front Brakes	447960040	Cylinder Kit, Disc Brake, Front				1	45	ToyotaPartsDeal
Front Brakes	9024006024	PIN, W/HOLE(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE ANTI-RATTLE)			0.62	4
Front Brakes	3147830010	CAP, BLEEDER PLUG			1.18	2
Front Brakes	9010512175	BOLT, HEXAGON(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER)			1.28	4
Front Brakes	4774860060	Spring, Anti-RATTLE				2	5	ToyotaPartsDeal
Front Brakes	9046812015	CLIP(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE ANTI-RATTLE)			1.49	2

Rear Brakes	446660070	Brake Pads Rear - Toyota (04466-60070)				1	55	Olathe
Rear Brakes	494660031	SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)			40	1
Rear Brakes	494860010	FITTING KIT, DISC BRAKE, REAR				1	15	ToyotaPartsDeal
Rear Brakes	447960250	CYLINDER KIT, DISC BRAKE, REAR				1	18	ToyotaPartsDeal
Rear Brakes	3147830010	CAP, BLEEDER PLUG			1.18	2
Rear Brakes	9010508304	BOLT(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER MOUNTING)			0.59	4
Rear Brakes	4771560010	PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)			5.69	2
Rear Brakes	4771560020	PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)			5.71	2
Rear Brakes	9010112167	BOLT, HEXAGON(FOR REAR CALIPER)			0.88	4

Will update my progress over time with some pics or vids of the work in my garage.

-Cheers

Red Beard · Feb 24, 2024

That's an extensive list. I guess we'll see you in a couple months after you get all that stuff replaced? :rofl:

I am curious of your thoughts of the 200 vs 100 so far.

Something worth including for baselining is suspension stuff. All those rubber bits get real worn out and contribute to a less comfortable ride. Control arms front and rear, shock bushings, etc. Also, I hear motor mounts are great to replace to cut down on vibrations.
Does it have AHC? Globes from Impex Japan are the way to go.

take123 · Feb 24, 2024

My parts arrived from Olathe, Partsouq, and ToyotaPartsDeal this week!

I create a video on YouTube of my loot, will work on it later in March as I need to go on a out of town work trip.

^My 200 is definitely much quieter on the inside, the 100 I feel more what is happening on the ground, the 200 just absorbs everything, it's so quiet and soft. The 200 feels much more solid, and the engine is much more powerful. I don't feel so comfortable working on the 200 myself yet, as there's not as much info on it out online. I still like my 100, something about it makes me always come back to the 100.

My suspension is not on immediate right now as it feels good. I do plan to replace the arms and bushings in future but nothing needed probably for next 30-50k mi, and the ball joint (prob won't redo the ball joint, just redo the whole arm). The bushings are a pain to replace, I really am not looking forward to that. Engine bushings can be good too to replace, but I'm not so sure I have the right tools for that job and my engine is quiet when I sit in the cabin. The sway bar bushings I can replace those too. Steering Rack definitely will be on the next round of replacement, along with Exhaust system and refreshed Tires and tire pressure sensors.

I exercised the AHC and center diff locker system on and off, and the transfer case periodically to get the juices flowing. They seem to all function with no issue. Center diff light needs replacing, so I got a replacement switch as a first try, don't think it's the dash light bulb as it's rarely used. The AHC globes and lines look rust free so far, so will leave those for now. The AHC fluid needs to be cleaned up looks dirty, doubt the PO did anything to it.

take123 · Mar 21, 2024

Update 3/21/2024

I got my new exhaust system from PartsOUQ.
I ordered the gaskets, the rubber mounts, and the 3 pieces of the exhaust assembly kit. I did not swap the catalytic converters, they appear in good shape.

I had to take it to a Muffler-only shop, as the bolts and old exhaust were rusted really bad, it would of taken me forever to do it. It was a more hands on job so decided to save the time and effort and pay the shop. They did a good job (5 star shop on Google), walked in, did it in 2-3 hours, was a clean job, done.

The car now sounds very quiet and smooth when putting on the gas! No more rattling or high frequency sound when putting the pedal real hard.

For those that are wondering here's some of the part numbers:

You can check it on PartsOUQ

Number	Name	Brand	Price	Qty





1740350151	PIPE ASSY, EXHAUST, CENTER	Toyota	366.20$	1
1745050070	PIPE ASSY, EXHAUST, FRONT NO.2	Toyota	121.52$	1
1740550030	PIPE ASSY, EXHAUST, TAIL	Toyota	225.20$	1
1745250050	CLAMP, EXHAUST PIPE	Toyota	16.33$	1
1745150050	GASKET, EXHAUST PIPE, CENTER	Toyota	1.31$	1
9164180840	BOLT,W/WASHER	Toyota	0.79$	1
9091706045	GASKET, EXHAUST PIPE	Toyota	1.27$	3
9151561035	BOLT, FLANGE	Toyota	0.69$	6
9418561000	NUT,LOCK	Toyota	0.75$	6
1756546040	SUPPORT, EXHAUST PIPE, NO.1	Toyota	9.81$	1
1756574280	SUPPORT, EXHAUST PIPE, NO.1	Toyota	5.72$	3
1756513030	BOLT OR RING, EXHAUST PIPE FRONT (FOR CENTER)	Toyota	4.59$	2

Note, there is a Dampener part that sits behind the exhaust pipe (1758150140). I decided to reuse my old Dampener assembly as it was in good condition, and didn't want to spend more money than required. Some of the rubber support was out of stock for me, so I only bought what was in stock, I used around 4 of the original ones and swapped 2 to new ones, overall don't see these as needing all replaced they still worked. What needed replacing is all the rusted out metal, bolts, nuts, and the exhaust pipes, and the gaskets involved.

Chrisek · Mar 22, 2024

Right on and looking forward to your rehab project. Sounds like you have already scoped out the LCA’s, I would also suggest checking on the front diff mount (radiator side specifically) and the transmission mount. If still good, then you can project lifespan for you. By the time I got to mine, they were chunked.

AARONTLC · Mar 22, 2024

Love to see another 100 Series being taken care of. I am on the down hill side of my base line replacement list. A couple things:

Consider rehabbing your Front Drive Shafts (CV’s). Reboot kits are considerably cheaper and kind of a fun project. I would replace only if damaged or they were already aftermarket.

You mentioned that you wanted to replace coils. Wait for a holiday special. Somebody will post on here. I just replaced my spark plugs and torqued them to the highly suggested 18 lbs. Found 4 of my coils were split. They worked fine but they were starting to come apart. I replaced the 4 and kept 2 for temporary replacement option.

Good luck!

mokrunka · Mar 22, 2024

You torqued your plugs to 18 ft-lbs? FSM says 13 ft-lbs, when you say highly recommended, where does that come from? I know there are concerns about the plugs coming loose, but also don't want to strip them from the head.

Land Shark · Mar 22, 2024

mokrunka said:
You torqued your plugs to 18 ft-lbs? FSM says 13 ft-lbs, when you say highly recommended, where does that come from? I know there are concerns about the plugs coming loose, but also don't want to strip them from the head.

Read through this

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

AARONTLC · Mar 22, 2024

mokrunka said:
You torqued your plugs to 18 ft-lbs? FSM says 13 ft-lbs, when you say highly recommended, where does that come from? I know there are concerns about the plugs coming loose, but also don't want to strip them from the head.

Yeah I know what the FSM reads. I was skeptical as well until I pulled my plugs after reading the attached thread. I would wager good money that the tightest of the 8 spark plugs was no more than 10 to 15 inch lbs. At no time did it feel like the head was going to strip torquing to 18 ft lbs.

take123 · Mar 26, 2024

I did some basic maintenance today. Changed Fuel Filter and changed the rear hatch struts, and fixed the center locking diff light not coming on.

Fuel Filter

Rear Hatch Struts

Center Diff Lock Switch
Summarized here: Center Differential Lock Transfer Indicator Switch Problem - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/center-differential-lock-transfer-indicator-switch-problem.498372/post-15414305

take123 · Apr 16, 2024

Posting some quick updates, been busy lately:

Both front wheels have bearings repacked, new seals, new races, new rotors, new flanges and CV axles. I kept the old hubs but polished them off with a brass brush. They got new brake pads and shims and springs, new rubber boots on pistons. I rebuilt the old brake pistons/calipers and used a brass wire wheel to remove some rust off the calipers and pistons. Made sure everything was torqued properly. Bled the brakes. I'll do the rear brakes and rotors later, when I get ready to replace those bearings which is a lot of work....

On one side, I didn't pound one of the inner bearing races all the way into the hub, so my caliper was hitting the rotor. Had to get a new bearing and race and then installed it all the way down, double checked both inner and outer race, and all lines up now.

Old rotor/hub and CV boot. The CV's were leaking bad. Old rotors were rusted and not a lot of grease in the bearings. The prior owner also did not use OEM brakes, there were no shims or springs.

I plan to rebuild the old CV's with new grease and boots, keep it as a spare. They look overall fine and the teeth still make good mounting with the flanges, theres no teeth wear. When installing the CV axle I found there is a thin shiny metal at the very edge of the wheel mounting side that surrounds/covers the mounting location of the spindle. That thin metal bends easily so be careful when moving around the CV, don't let the CV lay on the ground with that thin metal hitting the ground or else it'll flatten and you'll have to bend it back carefully with pliers.

Picture of new rotor/hub/bearing mounted with new CV axles. New brake caliper kit rebuilt all OEM:

I then replaced my old crusty ignition coils and spark plugs with new OEM (Denso) ones.

take123 · May 23, 2024

A quick few updates. Got my timing belt done with the VVTI. Everything went very smoothly according to the YouTube tutorials and write-ups on the forums.

My Crank was tight, I was able to get it out using my Milwaukee 1/2" impact gun and a crank holder tool attached to a pole that was touching the ground. I had the radiator out so the impact gun could fit, my 3/8" impact guns wouldn't budge.

Parts replaced include (everything Toyota OEM except Ignition Coils which were DENSO, Coolant used ZEREX Asian Red as couldn't get Toyota SLLC, Tranny fluid is Toyota World Standard):
- Timing Belt, Idler pulleys, timing tensioner, new cam cover electrical clips (was very brittle), water pump and gasket, water inlet housing, O-rings, thermstat.
- Serpentine belt, serp tensioner, idler pulley
- Fan, fan clutch, fan bracket, fan shroud
- Radiator, radiator hoses and clips, hoses and clips for oil cooler housing (the front side)
- Vacuum hose on top of power steering pump and clips (these were very brittle when taking apart, take care)
- PCV valve hose and foam bits and clamps
- Ignition coils DENSO x8 and Spark plugs x8 Toyota
- Heater T's and new clips, hoses original old ones. The hot side Heater was cracking be careful when removing it to not get plastic shards in the coolant system.
- Coolant drain and refill with new (Zerex Asian Red).
- Transmission fluid drip and fill and measure level (Toyota World Standard)
- Engine oil change (Toyota filter, Mobil 1 5W-30)

The difficult part was the VVTI cams were very sensitive to "spring" left or right, when you put them right at "Top Dead Center". If I moved the tick to the "T" mark it had lower tension, and I had some easier time assembling the Timing Belt with the Cam and Crank marks. When I installed the Timing Belt, I had to install the Tensioner on (with grenade pin still in), or else it will skip teeth when I rotated the Crank. With Tensioner on and rotating, I found there was still a 0.5mm to 1mm gap of the Cam marks at Top Dead Center. Rotated it 2 to 3 full rotations, still the same, and then I decided to pull the Tensioner pin as I felt after the Tensioner is activated it'll "pull back" the slight gap, and sure enough it did, right on the middle after I pull the pin and rotated it 2-3 times.

A video of the Timing Belt line up:

The old engine was quite gross. There was coolant leak evidence in past as it dried up and formed hard crystals around the parts. The liquid also caused the bearings to rust up. Grease also accumulated around the liquid and when dried up formed a black sticky paste. Spent forever wiping the engine surface clean before tackling the job, and also used a fine razor blade to scrape off the water pump gasket.

Judging from the condition of the belts and pulleys and parts, it looks like the original owner never replaced accessories like idler pulleys or tensioner when doing a timing belt job. The timing belt also didn't look OEM, but it looked not too bad condition for 170K mi, so I think the PO replaced it at some point. But the bearings on the pulleys and the tensioner and other parts were very rusted so it was great to change them, the engine is much quieter now.

I kept the old parts like tensioners, pulleys, and ignition coils and pipes and clips as Backup and put them in my Truck. They still work and can be good emergency parts if something breaks while on a road trip.

The whole job took over a month (CV axle + Front bearing/rotor rebuild + Timing belt set job), took my time and was no rush, so made sure to double check triple check everything. Sometimes I didn't have the tool or the right part or forgot to buy something, then have to wait and go shopping, so it was a long process. I have two LC's so one daily driver and this one just sat in the garage on stands for a long time. Next time tackling these jobs, should be one shot and probably can finish in 1 - 2 days.

Timing Belt: For those that want to do this themselves and newbie, here's some Youtube video sources (the first 3 helped me the most):
Timmy the Toolman
OTRAMM
ZHP

G Dupler
Slip Angle
JamesonDIY
Shop Time with Drew
DLM Garage
Practical Enthusiast
Detail alignment mark video: Ioannis

Radiator video: LandCruiserDIY, Chowcares,
Ig Coils, Spark plugs video: chowcares,
Heater T's: Chowcares, OTRAMM,
Coolant Replace: MiuTube
Transmission Fluid Replace: LandCruiserDIY, Car Care Nut

Cam Seal replacement. Note I didn't do this as I didn't see leakage and this is NOT a simple job for the faint of heart. The VVTI models need you to take off the whole camshaft to replace the seals! Not as easy as older models where accessible from front after removing pulley. Auto Engine Check, Cars and Beatz Official
I also did not replace the Crank seal, as saw no need to replace it due to no leaking.

There are a huge amount of videos now and since the TUNDRA 4.7L V8 and other variants share the same engine (similar), you can find those guides as well as Land Cruisers aren't sold in as high volumes as Tundras. You can also check LX470 videos.

take123 · May 23, 2024

Continuing post, after the timing belt change, I took it to a shop to do the steering rack as I just didn't have enough time before my road trip. My steering rack was not leaking as the ATF fluid remain at same level when driving for over 5000mi, so I don't think it was a big issue, however the boots show evidence of wear and at some time leaking in past. So didn't want to risk it.

I looked at the steps to do the rack, and overall it's just a painful process..... (smacking tie rod ends off mine were really stuck on tight, very tight space to work on the pipes and clamps, having to remove the oil cooler housing and the associated mess it creates, wiggling this heavy thing out and then wiggling the new thing in, needing to do alignment, etc). I could of done it, but it was just a lot of work and didn't want to waste my vacation time.

If any of you are in the DFW area, I took my truck to Mike's shop in Denton, I rec him if you need help he knows the LC's and did the job expediently. He did the job with alignment in around 5 hours (went in at 8am when it first opened and got out before 3pm), as an amateur it would've probably taken me 3 days. He doesn't rip off customer or try to upsell you, and tells you what he plans to do more clearly. Everyone else was quoting me heavy prices and long wait times in DFW, but not Mike.
Kostanko's Mechanical Service - Denton, TX - https://www.yelp.com/biz/kostankos-mechanical-service-denton

I was able to bring my own OEM parts and fluids to him, and also mention the O-rings and washers I wanted replaced. Most mech shops today don't allow you to bring your own parts. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic Maxlife ATF (red bottle) for fluid, 2 quarts was enough, didn't have way to get the Toyota fluid in time and so far working great.

Some guide sources I found if you want to tackle this yourself:
Video showing centering the steering rack: TRQ

There is this video showing a person doing the steering rack install guide for the land cruiser 100's:
Big Slack Offroad
Another video guide: Nonnell

I took the car running from Dallas -> Denver -> Salt Lake -> San Francisco. Almost 2000 mile drive. So far the engine is running great. Took the LC up to 100mph in Salt Lake highway straights and purring along smoothly. This is the first time tackling a timing belt job this complex, so definitely an empowering experience to be able to take knowledge from the community to fix something that you can call your own work. It's a different feeling than paying someone else to fix it for me, and then driving it, you get a much higher level of enjoyment driving something you worked hard on. Makes me not so afraid if something breaks on the side of the road. I took my tools and spare parts with me and could fix it on the road trip if something did break. There is a certain good feeling you get taking something very old and giving it a new chance at life and understanding how things work in case things do go down.

excessive · May 23, 2024

I love seeing all the shiny new parts! Great work!

GregLCA · May 23, 2024

Fantastic writeup with amazing links and part numbers. Thanks for putting all of this together!

-G

buddysharp · Jun 21, 2024

Awesome write up. thank you!

nachocruiser · Sep 2, 2024

Nice job with the restoration. A garage full of new parts is a beautiful thing

Great parts list and links to videos you've found. I'm doing research for a serpentine belt, pulleys and tensioner change here soon and timing belt job eventually. Mostly just ordering parts now which is how I found your thread. Mine is 2004 so non vvti.

Finding part numbers is such a PIA. Partsouq helps but there seem to be subtleties. I'm going to bring it up on separate thread. Shopping around I find Amayama to usually beat partsouq on price so just FYI if you are not familiar with it.

Cheers!

NE Snowman · Sep 3, 2024

Great start here! Partsouq is great I also use Impex for lightweight stuff. Takes a bit to get but I haven’t found rubber seals cheaper than impex included shipping.

ScotyDosentKnow · Sep 3, 2024

Great thread, in for more!

ranchero7 · Apr 23, 2025

Awesome thread. Hoping to add a 2006/7 to the fleet soon!

My 2006 LC100 170K Baselining Project (1 Viewer)

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My 2006 LC100 170K Baselining Project (1 Viewer)

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