My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build.

[dngspot]

Thanks, I thought about removing the complete floor early in the build. Part of the reason was to pull the trans up higher. At this time I am just going to fix, if I go with bigger tires in the future, I might just cut the floor out.
I too am going to coat the frame, also the under side body, engine compartment, out side of the engine compartment and inner finders.

Damn I hate looking for lost tools. I spent half of the morning looking for a lost soap pencil. I ended up running across town and grabbed one out of my tool box at work.

I finished half of the plate for the floor. This side, I am going to do in two pieces. With a long thin piece of metal, I figured it would be easier forming to the uneven area at the top of the opening. I cut and bent the material, then beat it so the edges were close to the floor. The next piece will be butt welded to the piece in the pic. It looks like the cut in the floor is not square, it is the bend in the material. I bent it at an angle to follow the bend in the floor.

 

[dngspot]

The front driver side is finished. I welded the two pieces together and then welded the pieces below the hole. Next I will build the left cab mount then work on the rear corners of the cab.

 

[dngspot]

A few more minor things done. I made the left cab mount and welded it into place. No pic, the mount and fit, look the same as the right side.
I then moved on to the right corner. Since I have started on this body repair I have noticed that I could have just grabbed a tube of seem sealer, when the truck was new, hit all of the spot welded panels and would not have a problem today. Living in So. Cal 30 years ago this was not in my mind.
Back to the corner, the rust was at one of the reinforcement panels for the seat. I used a die grinder and cut off wheel to cut out the rust. I did weld in the new material, but the trigger in my mig gun was sticking. I managed, but kept burning holes in the floor board, not one of my best welds. Seam sealer will cover both sides of this panel.
Now off to the next and last spots on the left rear corner.

 

[dngspot]

The last of the rust.
This blurry pic is of the inside left rear corner. It can't be seen in the photo but the top layer of steel has a hole and pieces are lifted.

Outside again blurry, a pic of the area on the left side that will be cut out.

The left inside of the material removed.

Left outside view of material removed.

The floor piece will be made from 16 gauge material. The outside piece will be a flat piece of 20 gauge. Another 16 gauge piece will be bent and welded to the floor and the spot welded to the inside of the 18 gauge. Then I will seem seal all body pieces except the right front cab mount piece, it has been done already.

 

[dngspot]

The cab welding is finished. Today I installed the last pieces for the floor and the rear outside of the cab. Most if the time was finishing the outside with body filler and sanding. I welded the floor in, one spot weld at at time and filled in holes as I made them, I used .030 wire and my machine was set at the lowest setting. I would have done better if I would have pulled the .023 wire off of the shelf.
I lost a couple pics of the floor and the cab. They were taken after the pieces were tacked in.

The inside behind the drivers seat.

Outside left lower cab area ready for paint.

 

[NorCalBorn]

LIKE.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looks good man! What's the next step now that your body is done?

 

[dngspot]

You know those marker lights on the front fenders. You know the ones with the rubber gaskets that fall apart after a couple years of use. I am going to remove them and weld in plates. After that I am going to rust treat the frame and hose down the frame and under side of the cab with Herculiner. Then install the new poly cab mount kit that is setting on my bench.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Hey what are you using to cut the floor? We were looking at the floor in mine yesterday and I think we're going to get a plasma cutter. It looks like you used a cutoff wheel?

 

[dngspot]

I used a mini air saw for the front and a cut off wheel for the rear. The cut off wheel will cut a straight line the saw doesn't very well. I only have a standard die grinder at home and could not maneuver well in the front.

 

[dngspot]

Took off work after lunch and came home. I cut material for the driver side fender. I welded it under the hole that the marker light is located. Then filled the other side with body filler.

The inner side of the fender. I will use seam sealer on this side.

The outer side of the fender.

 

[dngspot]

I been working on a York 210 compressor install. I decided to use it rather than the MV50. I like the idea of having the CFM to use air tools.

What I have done so far is make the front angle that attaches to the front cover. I picked up 3 bolts there. Then I made a bracket that will also pick up three holes on the block. The problem is I cut the front angle too short.

I found the bracket build on line, I believe the guys name was Eric. He did a great job suppling pics, but man I could have used a measurement or two. His bracket seems pretty stout and allows the retention of a compressor for air conditioning.

Here is a pic of how it sets now. More detail will follow as I build the next front bracket.

 

[xxsilveradoxx]

I been working on a York 210 compressor install. I decided to use it rather than the MV50. I like the idea of having the CFM to use air tools.

What I have done so far is make the front angle that attaches to the front cover. I picked up 3 bolts there. Then I made a bracket that will also pick up three holes on the block. The problem is I cut the front angle too short.

I found the bracket build on line, I believe the guys name was Eric. He did a great job suppling pics, but man I could have used a measurement or two. His bracket seems pretty stout and allows the retention of a compressor for air conditioning.

Here is a pic of how it sets now. More detail will follow as I build the next front bracket.

super project

 

[dngspot]

Thanks.

First I made cardboard templates and traces them to 2"X1/4" angle. After cutting and drilling I welded a 2"X1/4" bar stock to the side of the angle, this was done to move the compressor away from the block. I also welded in washers for spacers, they were needed on the two upper bolts in the front and on the lower bolt in the rear.The materials below are laid out in the order used. The piece on the right is the finished angle.

Using more cardboard for a template, I cut a piece of 1/4" plate to weld behind the angle. This is for support and a weld area for the top compressor bracket. The two holes on the side of the front angle are for the York compressor.

A front view of the angle mounted to the front cover.

A rear view of the York. I had it hanging on the front bolts only. This was to measure the location of the rear top hole and measure a piece of 2"X1/4" angle for the lower bolt mount.

The top compressor mount was done with plate and bar stock. I did not get any pics of the build but I do need to take it apart for paint and will get pics then.

It is tough to see in this pic but the gussets can be seen from the rear, for the top compressor plate.

The rear lower angle for the York. This might help with how long the angle must be.

The tensioner was mounted on a plate with spacers for the York and bolted directly on the AC compressor. I cut the adjuster from a 1986 Toyota AC bracket. It turns out it is cast steel and welds nicely.

A front view of the pulleys as now it is finished and waiting to be disassembled for paint.

When the brackets are disassembled I will get pics of them.

 

[Sam Stewart]

It looks really good. Have you measured for clearance?

 

[dngspot]

Just eyeballed it. I know the compressor will set forward of the motor mount and there is an open area on the right side it should fit. If the tensioner makes contact with the fender then I think there is another spot to put it. The area under the pan would have hit the steering stabilizer, but that is coming off and hydro assist is going in. Thanks for the complement.

The remaining pics

 

[dngspot]

No pics of the recent work. For a beer I can get my 25 year old daughter in the garage to wire wheel off the frame. I wish I would have got a pic of that, a 5'10", 120 lbs, blond, girl using a 13 amp grinder like any guy could. The rear of the frame has been cleaned, rust treated and painted with flat black.
I also cut the rear shackle mounts off and moved them forward. I'm about to spread truck bed coating on the frame and do not want to clean that stuff of later to move spring shackle hangers.

 

[justbecause]

No pics of the recent work. For a beer I can get my 25 year old daughter in the garage to wire wheel off the frame. I wish I would have got a pic of that, a 5'10", 120 lbs, blond, girl using a 13 amp grinder like any guy could. The rear of the frame has been cleaned, rust treated and painted with flat black.
I also cut the rear shackle mounts off and moved them forward. I'm about to spread truck bed coating on the frame and do not want to clean that stuff of later to move spring shackle hangers.

you have my attention
subscribed.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

wow just read through entire build holy crap. Wicked man. I wish i had your cleaning methods!!! I was going to suggest clear coating the tranny tcase to help in later cleaning but the Black is even better that looks great. The TG springs are known for flattening out so even if it sits a bit taller than you planned you might give it some time. If you are planning to really articulate it I think you will find your front shackles will hit the body mount. Easy fix though if so.

 

[dngspot]

**** you guys are great.

It would not hurt my feelings if those springs flatten out a bit, but I think I am fine with the way it looks now. My plan is to run all the bugs out of the truck with those 33's and then fit 35 Generals. I should have no problem fitting them later.

As for those frame to cab mounts, I have noticed a possible problem. If needed I plan cutting and welding a bit more.

I live in a some what cold part of the US, for a So. Cal. guy it is cold, and have been cutting fire wood lately to keep my butt warm. I plan on returning to work in a couple of weeks. This weekend I am splitting that wood I cut.

Thanks again.