MUDRAK NP203 with stock Tranny/Transfer

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Drew is right. You do have to "split" the split case to mate it all up. One thing to also be aware of, when you re build the split case, you will also have to re set the pre load on the output of the split case. This is done by shims. Someone may have a set they can send and you can replace what you use. Someone did this for me as I was un aware of this step and was informed later. It was a HUGE help!!
Just a heads up!
 
Cool, good info.
It is certainly more work than I had imagined, to do the whole process. Glad I learned all this here instead of in the driveway.

I think I'll talk to the seller about going with the tranny and case that he already had mated up to the 203.
Sounds a lot simpler. Plus its local for me, the shipping would make it tough otherwise.

Thanks again for everyones input.

Dave
 
DavidAW said:
Cool, good info.
It is certainly more work than I had imagined, to do the whole process. Glad I learned all this here instead of in the driveway.

I think I'll talk to the seller about going with the tranny and case that he already had mated up to the 203.
Sounds a lot simpler. Plus its local for me, the shipping would make it tough otherwise.

Thanks again for everyones input.

Dave
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Wait till you have to make the shifters for it!!! I had a hard time w that. You might not.
 
chicago said:
Wait till you have to make the shifters for it!!! I had a hard time w that. You might not.
Click to expand...

Yeah, kinda worried about that. Can you get 3 shifters on the original post on the h42?
3 side by side for the 4wd, hi/low, and 203hi/lo ?

I assume you could get it all working with the whole thing sitting on the ground 1st. I've never done this so I'm just trying to figure it out in my head.

Dave
 
DavidAW said:
Yeah, kinda worried about that. Can you get 3 shifters on the original post on the h42?
3 side by side for the 4wd, hi/low, and 203hi/lo ?

I assume you could get it all working with the whole thing sitting on the ground 1st. I've never done this so I'm just trying to figure it out in my head.

Dave
Click to expand...
I would think you can use the existing shifter for the stock transfer case by adding extensions on the linkage. Knock out the corner of the shifter gate and you will have 2H, 2L, 4H, and 4L. Then just at 1 more for the 203. Seems a lot simpler. More shifters sounds neat, but it is just more work. I have 3 now, H42, Ranger UD, and transfer, but I suppose I could add 3 more: Twin Shifter, 203 doubler, and PTO. John
 
I've done the 2 low mod, so I have the 2L 2H 4L 4H all on 1 stick, but I figured it would be hard to retain that adding the 203 and 11 inches in between.

Thanks
Dave
 
Heres a pic of my shifters for reference. Mace had some too that I used in the same way...
001 (13).webp
002 (3).webp
002 (4).webp
 
Something to be wary of with threaded rod is that it's compression strength is directly based on the minor size of the threads. If the "push" is stiff or the link operates at a weird angle it may be appallingly easy to bend the rod. The solution is fairly simple though, increase the OD of the link between the rod ends. Can do this by slipping some tube over the rod and welding it into place. Since compression strength increases by the 4th power of the OD you don't need to get carried away with some monster tube size.

Local bearing houses carry rod ends as does Mcmaster.com, and I *think* that bocabearing.com may also have them.

If you want to keep grit from wearing out the rod ends try some Seals-it washers; seals-it.com I made the t/c shifter linkage for my powertrain swap in Wallace roughly the same way and once I find them (old garage is a sty at the moment) I have some of the Seals-it washers for those rod ends.
 
DavidAW said:
Chicago, thanks a million for the pics.

Is that just threaded rod? Where do you get the ends?

Thanks again

Dave
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No. It 3/8 steel rod and I threaded the ends. I got the rod ends from summit racing.
Like I said. This part was kinda difficult for me. Understanding what needed to happen to get the throw shorter was more the issue that I had wrapping my brain around. I do tend to overthink sometimes, though.
Pressed in some bronze bushings where the levers rotate around the pivot, which is a grade 8 bolt. Used steel washers in-between the individual levers.
 
Oh... Now I see. Yes. I did use all thread rod for mock up. For the final though, like I said, I used rod and threaded the ends.
 
chicago said:
Oh... Now I see. Yes. I did use all thread rod for mock up. For the final though, like I said, I used rod and threaded the ends.
Click to expand...
You can get all thread in a grade 8. I used it to make up my clutch push rod. Much larger diameter than the original, and it has lasted over 15 years just fine. It is still straight as an arrow. John
 
When dealing with compression length means a lot, lot more than tensile strength. Euler's compression/column formula has no variable in it for the tensile strength of the material, but it does square the length and use it as a divisor. Short and fat is really hard to buckle, long and skinny is not, that's obvious. Euler's formula just puts the math behind what really happens.

Just stepping up from the ~.33" minor OD of the threaded rod to .375" should make a large enough difference. If it bends slip some .062 walled 1/2" tube over it and weld in place.
 
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