I tried to move my 1977 fj40 for the first after its been sitting for 35 years. It will not go in reverse unless I put it in 1st gear. Bad slave cylinder or bad clutch?
Moving my fj40 for the first time (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 77ToyFJ40
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I bet you would have issues moving if you sat for 35 years! Bleed the clutch system. Then check the adjustment on the release lever. Clutch plate could be sticky, could be rust on the pressure plate. Check the tranny and transfer fluid levels. Drire it around the block a few times to loosen stuff up.
Reverse has no synchronizer, so this is normal. So, if it was idling in neutral without the clutch in, it is gonna grind. Depress the clutch pedal, shift into a gear (this will stop the flywheel and input shaft from spinning), then shift into reverse, then ease off the clutch like you would doing a regular take-off. It could be other issues. It is normal to see quite a bit of reverse-gear grinded away, when you open up an old Land Cruiser transmission.
Wouldn't a 77 have a 4 speed tranny with all gears synchronized. No synchro one R or 1st with the 3 speed.
steffan
SILVER Star
no expert, but I've never heard of a transmission with a synchro 1st gear (1st and reverse always are the same gear.... hate to say always)
AussieHJCruza
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Have never met a vehicle with a synchronized reverse.
- Thread starter
- #7
It was grinding with the clutch in. In would not go into reverse without going to 1st gear then to reverse.
I almost never shift into reverse from neutral. Into 1st, then reverse, otherwise it grinds. Mine is a 1974.
^^this^^
And also try to find some time to drive it a little more jjjeeeess !
And also try to find some time to drive it a little more jjjeeeess !
Be careful if this is old equipment that was neglected. The master cylinder and slave cylinder has been serviced recently?
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
^^^^ this.
At the very least, I would expect a full flush of the brake and clutch fluid after 35 years. You may even have to replace the brake and clutch masters. If you do, go full OEM. On that note, a full fluid change everywhere would be a good idea. Don't be surprised if you need a carb rebuild, sitting that long.
At the very least, I would expect a full flush of the brake and clutch fluid after 35 years. You may even have to replace the brake and clutch masters. If you do, go full OEM. On that note, a full fluid change everywhere would be a good idea. Don't be surprised if you need a carb rebuild, sitting that long.
Bleeding the clutch, and brake systems was a mistake in my case. I got fresh fluid in the master cylinders, then the clutch leaked into the cab, for a week, and destroyed some paint, and the brake master cylinder leaked fluid into the brake booster.
