For Sale Most recent 200 Series purchase prices (9 Viewers)

Hi! IF you're willing to share, I thought it might be helpful for the rest of us to better understand what the market prices are for the 200 series (and LX 570 I suppose). I'm personally looking for one, have found a few, and curious what others' purchase prices have been so I can negotiate (or not) properly.

Please share purchase price, year, mileage at purchase, and location (east/west/south, etc...)

Thanks and happy hunting for those also looking.

 

[sanshin]

Sitting in sales office right now. Buying a 2021 white with terra, 2,300miles for $83,750. It’ll be ~$89,500 OTD. Has full set of weather techs and window tint. In Dallas the market is tight. Went by Toyota of Dallas and they have one marked up over MSRP by $2,500 and another $12,500. That’s $91,500 and $100,000. They said they weren’t dealing at all. Could probably get a little better deal in a small town around texas but not enough for the trouble of getting there for me. I would have waited another year before buying one but y’all have me scared this is the end and if it is the prices will be going up daily...and have been.

Pretty much where I was at too. I moved a lot quicker than I had planned for sure. I’m getting a ‘21 white/terra as well for 83k before tax. A little more than I intended to pay, but it’s their last one and in the exact color combo I want. Dealing with Seattle area dealerships has been a pain in my a$$. Got a good lead from @bkadds and, although I have to fly in and drive back home 20+ hours, there’s no better way to enjoy my new ride and make a road trip through some areas I’ve never seen. My buddy will join me too. Anything is better than dealing with the folks around here that want me to pay sticker.

 

[bkadds]

Pretty much where I was at too. I moved a lot quicker than I had planned for sure. I’m getting a ‘21 white/terra as well for 83k before tax. A little more than I intended to pay, but it’s their last one and in the exact color combo I want. Dealing with Seattle area dealerships has been a pain in my a$$. Got a good lead from @bkadds and, although I have to fly in and drive back home 20+ hours, there’s no better way to enjoy my new ride and make a road trip through some areas I’ve never seen. My buddy will join me too. Anything is better than dealing with the folks around here that want me to pay sticker.

Awesome! Glad to hear it!!! Did you deal with Mr. Andy?

 

[sanshin]

Awesome! Glad to hear it!!! Did you deal with Mr. Andy?

Sure did and he’s cool as the breeze. We’ll be sharing a beer when I go to pick it up. Thanks again!

 

[bkadds]

Sure did and he’s cool as the breeze. We’ll be sharing a beer when I go to pick it up. Thanks again!

You’re welcome! Glad I could help someone out.

 

[NJS]

Autotrader - page unavailable

FYI only


Bought mine here, zero hassles, paid $79.3K before taxes, tags, ect...

 

[WkndProject]

FYI only


Bought mine here, zero hassles, paid $79.3K before taxes, tags, ect...

Damn, I could’ve put that $4k difference towards some nice mods.

 

[bkadds]

Autotrader - page unavailable

FYI only


Bought mine here, zero hassles, paid $79.3K before taxes, tags, ect...

New?

 

[NJS]

New?

Brand new, 20 miles or so, in early Dec., 2020. Just like the one I attached from the Autotrader link, click on it to see.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I know there are plenty of smart folks on here. I have been crunching numbers, trying to decide if a new or used 200 is a better value. I am attempting to figure this by cost per mile with a guestimated residual value. I figure a 400,000 mile 200 series that runs is worth about 5k regardless of the year. I then figure cost per mile based on $35k for a used with 100k miles or $85k new with 0 miles. Is there a better way to calculate this? It looks like under every scenario the cost per mile is lower with the used. I would think if I bought new and really bit the bullet I would have history with the vehicle and make sure everything is maintained hopefully mitigating my repair budget, but in reality a 100k cruiser really doesn't need too much maintenance and this can be verified. I really do not want to pony up the cash for a new one, but if it is the last year I may reconsider. I have always figured it best to buy new and drive until the wheels fall off.

 

[tincan45]

I know there are plenty of smart folks on here. I have been crunching numbers, trying to decide if a new or used 200 is a better value. I am attempting to figure this by cost per mile with a guestimated residual value. I figure a 400,000 mile 200 series that runs is worth about 5k regardless of the year. I then figure cost per mile based on $35k for a used with 100k miles or $85k new with 0 miles. Is there a better way to calculate this? It looks like under every scenario the cost per mile is lower with the used. I would think if I bought new and really bit the bullet I would have history with the vehicle and make sure everything is maintained hopefully mitigating my repair budget, but in reality a 100k cruiser really doesn't need too much maintenance and this can be verified. I really do not want to pony up the cash for a new one, but if it is the last year I may reconsider. I have always figured it best to buy new and drive until the wheels fall off.

Cost per mile is higher with straight depreciation, but these come with great warranties and you have to factor that in the first five years. If you can afford new and plan to own for the long haul (10 yr+), new is smarter but not necessarily cheaper. These have fairly expensive service intervals every 30K, so if you are buying used, the depreciation curve is wave that oscillates every 30K down to 10K depending if the previous service has been done. I doubt any LC that's been maintained will even be worth 5K unless it's a complete rust bucket, but that in my mind is lack of maintenance.

Run from rust/lack of maintenance and buy what you can afford. There is a land cruiser out there for just about every budget if you look hard enough.

 

[WkndProject]

Here’s some analysis I did in January before buying.
Top picture: $ vs model year. Assumed 15k/yr. bottom line is KBB trade-in. top line is listings for sale.
Bottom picture: was looking at $ difference by model year but assuming the same miles.

I bought a ‘21 base (I like my coolbox ) and while it was an emotional decision, I like to understand the numbers for when the newness wears off.

As a family, we budget ~$480/mo/car and plan to keep each for 8 yrs. We buy new for the warranty, headache factor, know we care for our stuff, etc. We only buy Toyota/Lexus and our assumption of 8yrs/~100,000 trouble free miles has worked out so far.

Now, the LC has messed up my strategy a bit, as it’s in a different cost bracket than a 4Runner or GX. So I did this analysis to figure out how long I’d have to keep my LC, to stay within the same monthly budget. The answer I landed on was ~12yrs (vs my usual 8).
It appears that you lose ~$7k/yr on trade in for the first 5 yrs. ~$5k/yr for years 5-10, then $3-4K/yr after 10. This is based on 15k mi/yr.

Another way to look at it is as a one time $30k additional expense to have my dream vehicle (until I buy my next one).

 

[unclemat]

There is also hassle factor/familiarity. Buying newer you're postponing the hassle factor and reduce the risk of hidden issues/accidents. And rust or rather lack of.

When I bought my 2015 w/50k miles at end of 2018 for little below $50k, I thought it was relative sweet spot from hassle factor/cost per expected mile. The condition was (and is) excellent despite being northeast vehicle, but I lucked out and there were only couple things that needed to be addressed (alignment, slightly low A/C refrigerant causing periodic hissing at the expansion valve) taken care by the dealer, and the truck remains solid 15k miles later. Amazingly free of rust, there was only very minor surface rust on the frame behind the rear bumper cover, easily addressed, but added some hassle.

Now, in a rare move for me, I bought new. 2021 (HE) for $82k. Definitely terrible, terrible value from a cost/mile perspective. But car purchases are not always rational.

But I would again stress the importance of buying RUST FREE vehicle. I would absolutely not recommend buying vehicle with any significant amount of rust. Rust free is always worth a premium. Sometimes I cringe at what people buy here and say "oh, the rust is not so bad".

 

[teambell]

I know there are plenty of smart folks on here. I have been crunching numbers, trying to decide if a new or used 200 is a better value. I am attempting to figure this by cost per mile with a guestimated residual value. I figure a 400,000 mile 200 series that runs is worth about 5k regardless of the year. I then figure cost per mile based on $35k for a used with 100k miles or $85k new with 0 miles. Is there a better way to calculate this? It looks like under every scenario the cost per mile is lower with the used. I would think if I bought new and really bit the bullet I would have history with the vehicle and make sure everything is maintained hopefully mitigating my repair budget, but in reality a 100k cruiser really doesn't need too much maintenance and this can be verified. I really do not want to pony up the cash for a new one, but if it is the last year I may reconsider. I have always figured it best to buy new and drive until the wheels fall off.

Normally there is no question about better value - used. Today, as a write this, there are possibilities of buying a new 2021 for less than what I see 2020 and even some 2019 listed for (carmax, Cars.com, etc) and that is due to the good work of this thread and its contributors. As @NJS posted above, there are possibilities to buy new for less than $80k. I chose to buy a new one as I never have had one from mile 0 and I already know I love the vehicle and will keep it for at least 250K miles. I was able to buy my 2021 for below $80k, had a wonderful 1400 mile roadtrip and a fun adventure picking it up. Good Luck!

 

[TXSunDevil]

We don't have the rust issues where I am located. I always crawl under in check, just in case it spent any time at the coast.

 

[NRG nerd]

What I'm really struggling with is the "Heritage Edition premium." I can get a white 2021 base with terra interior for ~$80k or a white HE for $87k. I'm curious how I should think about the long term value proposition between a base and HE, if there is one at all. I don't need the 3rd row and will remove it if I get the base. There seems to be two schools of thought I see on MUD:

1. The HE is less truck for more money. Get the base and pull out the 3rd row. You can always buy wheels and/or the HE parts and make one yourself that will have a cool box and "nicer" seats. You can also put the $7k "saved" into mods.

2. LC's aren't investments; they're an emotional purchase. Life is short. If you're going to spend that much money on a vehicle, just get the one you want. In the long run you can always sell a HE and get your "premium" back in resale

Does anyone have a more nuanced view on this? Are HEs really that rare that they'll somehow be worth a material premium in 10 years, assuming if I only drive ~6,500 miles/yr? If I use FJ cruisers as an analog, there is one trail teams that is listed on cars.com for $70k+ but it basically has no miles on it. I'm struggling with justifying why I should pay $7,000 more.

Just for context:

I have a 2013 black 5th gen Trail (it has the smoked headlights similar to the HEs) which I love. Original plan was to keep it for at least 10 years or 100k miles (it currently has 57k miles after 8 years). Just like everyone else, I caught wind that that 200 was going away and convinced myself I should get one while I can. When I started searching a few weeks ago, I began looking for a slightly used 200 (2018+ with <30,000 miles) and found some great deals, including a few that are posted here on MUD. The logistics of buying out of state from a private seller, plus the time I'd need to take off from work to go pick one up and/or secure shipping made the the ~$8k marginal cost of getting a new one 20 minutes away an easy decision. So I put down a deposit and ordered the base blizzard that should be here in a few weeks. Then I started thinking about HEs once I had locked in a base at $80k that I could negotiate with. As everyone knows, HE sticker prices are ridicuous at this point, easily north of $90k. I thought I could negotiate a HE for $83k considering I had all my ducks in a row and was a serious buyer, but the absolute best I've been able to do (nation-wide) on a HE is $87 + TTL.

 

[unclemat]

I bought HE 2-row (silver) because that's what I really wanted. Realistically it was less than $2k premium or even less over base at the time I bought it, so that was acceptable to me. And it was closer to me than anything else, which made logistics easier. $7k would bring it into a no-go territory personally (you can get full armor for this $$$). Keep trying, maybe you'll score one. HE close to $81-82k was doable not very long time ago.

I do not think HE will be worth such a premium in the long run on the used market; this should not be a consideration.

 

[NRG nerd]

I bought HE 2-row (silver) because that's what I really wanted. Realistically it was less than $2k premium or even less over base at the time I bought it, so that was acceptable to me. And it was closer to me than anything else, which made logistics easier. $7k would bring it into a no-go territory personally (you can get full armor for this $$$). Keep trying, maybe you'll score one. HE close to $81-82k was doable not very long time ago.

I do not think HE will be worth such a premium in the long run on the used market; this should not be a consideration.

I appreciate the perspective. I thought I might be missing something.

I tend to believe that someone must be paying these premiums and I’m trying to understand the logic. The fact that so many dealers refuse to budge on HEs while still offering reasonable prices on base models is difficult to understand.

 

[LXstalker]

What I'm really struggling with is the "Heritage Edition premium." I can get a white 2021 base with terra interior for ~$80k or a white HE for $87k. I'm curious how I should think about the long term value proposition between a base and HE, if there is one at all. I don't need the 3rd row and will remove it if I get the base. There seems to be two schools of thought I see on MUD:

1. The HE is less truck for more money. Get the base and pull out the 3rd row. You can always buy wheels and/or the HE parts and make one yourself that will have a cool box and "nicer" seats. You can also put the $7k "saved" into mods.

2. LC's aren't investments; they're an emotional purchase. Life is short. If you're going to spend that much money on a vehicle, just get the one you want. In the long run you can always sell a HE and get your "premium" back in resale

Does anyone have a more nuanced view on this? Are HEs really that rare that they'll somehow be worth a material premium in 10 years, assuming if I only drive ~6,500 miles/yr? If I use FJ cruisers as an analog, there is one trail teams that is listed on cars.com for $70k+ but it basically has no miles on it. I'm struggling with justifying why I should pay $7,000 more.

Just for context:

I have a 2013 black 5th gen Trail (it has the smoked headlights similar to the HEs) which I love. Original plan was to keep it for at least 10 years or 100k miles (it currently has 57k miles after 8 years). Just like everyone else, I caught wind that that 200 was going away and convinced myself I should get one while I can. When I started searching a few weeks ago, I began looking for a slightly used 200 (2018+ with <30,000 miles) and found some great deals, including a few that are posted here on MUD. The logistics of buying out of state from a private seller, plus the time I'd need to take off from work to go pick one up and/or secure shipping made the the ~$8k marginal cost of getting a new one 20 minutes away an easy decision. So I put down a deposit and ordered the base blizzard that should be here in a few weeks. Then I started thinking about HEs once I had locked in a base at $80k that I could negotiate with. As everyone knows, HE sticker prices are ridicuous at this point, easily north of $90k. I thought I could negotiate a HE for $83k considering I had all my ducks in a row and was a serious buyer, but the absolute best I've been able to do (nation-wide) on a HE is $87 + TTL.

1/ the wheels are not the easiest thing to find from what I understand. Asked to order some and was told it was only for HE VINs with proof of damage.

2/after removing the back seats (my first mod completed today), there are some gaps. The cut out in the wheel well looks terrible but if you are sticking in drawers may not matter.

3/its hard to tell which one will hold value better. Will all depend on demand, think people who bought them last year go screwed Since supply is now higher. If you get the HE, I’ll be happy to buy your wheels to lower your cost

I decided on the base as wanted the cool box and kids use the side steps, plus like the optionality of the third row if I need to use them.

 

[NRG nerd]

1/ the wheels are not the easiest thing to find from what I understand. Asked to order some and was told it was only for HE VINs with proof of damage.

2/after removing the back seats (my first mod completed today), there are some gaps. The cut out in the wheel well looks terrible but if you are sticking in drawers may not matter.

3/its hard to tell which one will hold value better. Will all depend on demand, think people who bought them last year go screwed Since supply is now higher. If you get the HE, I’ll be happy to buy your wheels to lower your cost

I decided on the base as wanted the cool box and kids use the side steps, plus like the optionality of the third row if I need to use them.

View attachment 2604125

This is the first time I've heard of any constraints on the wheels, but I can see where Toyota is coming from. Did they do something similar with the black BBS wheels for the Tundra?

I agree that the cut-out in the wheel well is unsightly, but I assume it's possible to order the HE version of the wheel wells that don't have the missing portion. Wonder what that mark-up would be? The one thing I do like about the HE is the cargo cover in the back. Do the base models accommodate cargo covers? My T4R was broken into <6 months into ownership for a gym gag full of sweaty clothes. After that, I decided I would always want a cover for an SUV.

Going back to the HE premium: if you look at used prices for the handful of HEs for sale, they seem to be selling for about ~$7k more than the equivalent base with similar miles. Of course, the sample size is pretty small, and that's probably a function of the current market. What would seem reasonable to me is that HEs will sell for a few thousand more than base versions depending on mileage, vehicle condition, and of course, gas prices (don't know what the used 200 market looks like at $4-$5/gallon).

 

[Big Timber]

This is the first time I've heard of any constraints on the wheels, but I can see where Toyota is coming from. Did they do something similar with the black BBS wheels for the Tundra?

I agree that the cut-out in the wheel well is unsightly, but I assume it's possible to order the HE version of the wheel wells that don't have the missing portion. Wonder what that mark-up would be? The one thing I do like about the HE is the cargo cover in the back. Do the base models accommodate cargo covers? My T4R was broken into <6 months into ownership for a gym gag full of sweaty clothes. After that, I decided I would always want a cover for an SUV.

Going back to the HE premium: if you look at used prices for the handful of HEs for sale, they seem to be selling for about ~$7k more than the equivalent base with similar miles. Of course, the sample size is pretty small, and that's probably a function of the current market. What would seem reasonable to me is that HEs will sell for a few thousand more than base versions depending on mileage, vehicle condition, and of course, gas prices (don't know what the used 200 market looks like at $4-$5/gallon).

It's not just the wheels. I was asked for a VIN when I ordered an HE all weather cargo mat. I thought this was crazy until I went to another dealer and they asked the same thing. So I found the VIN of wrecked HE online and provided it for them. Week later I have an HE cargo mat to hide those holes.

My advice is go to another dealer. There's a lot of dealers that like to make money and sell you stuff rather than be a nazi and require to see your papers to prove you should be allowed to order this part or that.