More on transmissions and transfer cases ('78 2f driveline going into '73 FJ40)

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Joined
Jun 19, 2024
Threads
3
Messages
21
Location
Vermont
Hi all
First, thanks for everyone's posts, and apologies right up front for the wall of text below.
Backstory: I had a '77 FJ40 rustbucket that had no business being on (or off) the road when I was 18. I sold it because poor. Always wanted another but watched sadly as their values spiraled far out of my reach. Consoled myself with a small collection of geriatric rigs that need lots of work. Then I found a '73 FJ in February that was in super solid shape but had a blown motor and a reasonable price.

I've been working on a transplant drivetrain ever since. This is the first question that I've had that I haven't been able to find a clear answer to so far.

However, the more I read up on this, the more confused I get, so here I am, hat in hand, asking y'all to throw me a line.

Patient: 1973 FJ40 with a 3speed and blown motor. Came pretty complete but fairly well disassembled (seized block in the back, intake and exhaust manifolds, and a bunch of other parts in boxes etc.).
Donor: 1978 FJ40 rust bucket with bad frame, bad body, but running, driving, healthy 2F, 4 speed and transfer case. Someone did a s*** load of mechanical work to this thing but studiously ignored the very real structural issues.

In concept the project seemed pretty simple: Yank the 2f, transmission and transfer case and drop 'em in the '73. Optimism springs eternal 'round here...

I set about it: Pulled the driveline out of the '78, did a refresh (all new seals, checked compression, new water pump, gaskets, oil seal, fuel pump, lines, starter, clutch, etc. etc.). Swapped the dizzy from the '73, cleaned up the thermostat housing and oil filter bracket/ mount, cleaned it all up, painted the block, put the '73 intake and exhaust manifold on in place of the long tube header that would have sounded awesome, but also sounded like it would be a pain in the ass to fit with the throttle linkage etc..

Now it's almost ready to go in, and I'm noticing difference that were less apparent when I was taking everything apart.
First, the driveshafts were the wrong length. No biggie... cleaned, sanded, painted them, GTG right?

Well you all know that's not the case, and now so do I: The bolts are different sizes between the '78 and the '73. Because of course they are.

I had already swapped the parking brake assembly because the one from the '73 was in good shape and the one from the '78 was Napoleon (blownapart).
Whoops, no had to refinish the drum from the '78 because the bolts didn't mate up to the driveshafts from the '78.

Which of course don't mate up to the flanges on the front or rear differentials due to the bold sizes.

Which brings me to my question: The hack mechanic in me wants to simply drill the damned flanges out for the larger bolts. But I suspect there are other complications waiting in the wings here...

I did a bunch of reading and googling, and I don't see anything like a consensus on the 'right' way to do what I'm doing. I know I've addressed the exhaust and throttle linkage issue. I know I have to build a bracket for and fab a clutch line since the slave cylinder and fork are on the driver's side, but the '78 has them on the passenger side.

What other fun and adventure do I need to be thinking about?

Most importantly, am I an a**hole if I simply drill the flanges out to mate up to the newer driveshafts? Or should I put spacers in them and reduce the holes down (seems like a bad idea that will eventually result in vibration and/or falling apart at the worst possible time)? Or bite the bullet and buy new driveshafts with the right flanges on them (ouch)?

Thanks for reading! :)
 
How complete is the 78? Do you have it's driveshafts, axles? I did the same thing with a 72 and a 76ish 40, back in the 80's. I wanted the 4 speed and disc brakes. I ended up swapping axles & trans/tcase. Used the 4 speed driveshafts. I recall running a brakeline to the pass side like stk disc setup, probably clutch too.
 
How complete is the 78? Do you have it's driveshafts, axles? I did the same thing with a 72 and a 76ish 40, back in the 80's. I wanted the 4 speed and disc brakes. I ended up swapping axles & trans/tcase. Used the 4 speed driveshafts. I recall running a brakeline to the pass side like stk disc setup, probably clutch too.
The '78 was complete but *really* rusty. I have the axles from the '78 but they'll need pretty significant restoration (new pads, wheel cylinders/ calipers, rotors & drums etc.). The axles on the '73 are in far better shape. I was honestly trying to avoid changing the axles over for a few reasons, even though the prospect of having disc brakes is attractive:
  • I'm lazy: I either have to swap both axles between the rigs, or the '78 won't be a rolling chassis anymore
  • I'm lazy: I'm not excited about wire brushing, sanding and painting the 'new' axles
  • I'm impatient and cheap: See parts list above, they'll need to be ordered and installed
  • I'm impatient: I want to mount the motor yesterday. Or today. Maybe tomorrow :)
Feel free to tell me why it's a horrible idea and how I'm putting myself and everyone else on the road in danger, but at this moment I'm kinda leaning toward drilling out the flanges...

Last night I mounted the transmission back up to the motor, and the whole assembly is sitting on my engine lift ready to go in...

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I wouldn't drill out the flanges, but that's up to you . There are better ways to do it. FYI the driveshaft flange bolts are special and specific to the application. The slip yoke between the yrs are the same, so you could possibly match flanges 73 to 78 that way too. The U joints are different. If your 78 pinion is coarse spline you can just swap pinion flanges. New coarse and fine pinion flanges are available new also. 79 was a transition year but I've run across where a 78 pinion was fine spline and different than previous yrs. You could just swap 3rd members to get the right driveshaft flange. Both 3rd members should be the same ratio(4.11:1). Do you have a FSM(factory service manual). ? They are downloadable.
 
You can put 4 speed drive flanges on your diffs, probably the right thing to do (@cruiseroutfit) or swap your 3 speed slip yokes onto the 4 speed drive shafts and install backwards (this is what I did).
That's a lot less hack-y than my plan. I'll check out the flanges! Thanks! I was looking at the slip yokes and wondering if that was possible/ advisable...
 
I used the 73 diffs with the smaller drive flange behind a V8 for a while then behind the 3fe/h55f for several years with no problems. The only question I have is running the drive shafts with the slip yokes on the bottom instead at the TC. I will not wheel this truck so don't need the extra protection.
 
I used the 73 diffs with the smaller drive flange behind a V8 for a while then behind the 3fe/h55f for several years with no problems. The only question I have is running the drive shafts with the slip yokes on the bottom instead at the TC. I will not wheel this truck so don't need the extra protection.
I'll be pulling the '78 back in to the garage tonight to pull the flanges and see if they'll work. I pulled the flanges off the '73 last night, hoping I'll get lucky and they're all coarse splines.
 
are you needing to have your drive shafts relenghtened? i did so when than happened i just had the shop put my 77 u joint end on one and and the 72 on the diff end and now i have a hybrid driveshaft. i had to pay the cost of lengthening anyway. just another idea
 
I'll be pulling the '78 back in to the garage tonight to pull the flanges and see if they'll work. I pulled the flanges off the '73 last night, hoping I'll get lucky and they're all coarse splines.
Welp...
Didn't get lucky. The splines on the '78 are definitely fine, and the retaining nut is a 30mm rather than a 27mm. Off to order flanges :(

I've considered messing with the u-joints, but then it's going to be even more franken-rig than it already is - flanges means at least there's a clear demarcation where the '78 ends and the '73 begins (at the axle flanges now, rather than my plan of at the t-case). Starting to mess with u-joints and splicing stuff together means more stuff to remember down the road, which I am very unlikely to be successful at :(

Edit: flanges (and speedo cable) ordered from Cruiserteq
 
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