More movement than expected out of factory roof rails and cargo box? (1 Viewer)

[sclay115]

I'm wondering what I'm missing here. Recently installed a Yakima roof box on my '00 with the standard (short) roof rack and OEM rails. The mounting points for the box are solid, but there is a surprising amount of flex/movement in the OEM rails even with the box unloaded, both while driving over rough roads or if I manually initiate movement.

The thumbscrews are tight on the ends of the bars into the rails, but I don't see any other way to tighten the assembly down, and it would appear that the rails themselves are flexing. Would that be normal?

I'm about 2 feet away from going the 8020 route, as I'm not sure I trust this rack with the box loaded at highway speeds.

For anyone who has had this issue, did you solve it? Or did you go to an aftermarket rack/rail system?

Thanks

 

[Exiled]

Several people I know have had good luck adding couple of extra OEM rails to the roof rack to add rigidity. With as many people as have removed their factory racks, it shouldn't be too hard to scrounge up a couple more for your setup without breaking the bank or going the 8020 route (nothing wrong with that one).

 

[Greenbean]

I can tell you firsthand that yes the factory roof rack is functional and for the most part I think it’s designed to be quiet HOWEVER,

When you have to take the time to remove one completely, (all six feet) and you see that the only thing that really keeps your channeling slid into the feet is a small torque screw and you realize there could be a lot of pivot there you’ll be happy to something more solid.

Don’t get me wrong, the feet support the channel well and they slide in pretty far but it’s nothing like what you’re gonna get if you go aftermarket, you could get your feet from Gavimiti and go 8020 your heart out!

IMHO

Roof Channel Towers — Gamiviti

www.gamiviti.com

 

[hoser]

I think you are saying the crossbars are flimsy.... they are rated at 150 lbs. If your load is higher, then go 80/20 or more bars!

 

[sclay115]

I think you are saying the crossbars are flimsy.... they are rated at 150 lbs. If your load is higher, then go 80/20 or more bars!

I think I didn't articulate this very well, the box is currently empty, it just moves up and down and the roof.

Upon further inspection, it appears that the movement is specifically at the joint where the slider enters the side rails on the OEM rack. Maybe a little bit where the actual bar enters the slider, but not a lot. The bars themselves are solid.

I'm not sure if it's a tolerance issue, but there is some play there that is magnified as it moves through the rest of the assembly.

Short term, I may take some hose clamps and try to tighten the slider against the rail, and see if that solves it, at least that will point me in the right direction. Not ideal, or pretty, but it seems like something is a bit loose and at the very least it would help me identify where I need to look.

 

[hoser]

I believe the crossbar width changes a little fore to aft. Do your crossbars have a thumbscrew to lock down the width? There might be screws on the underside.

The later years have a thumb screws to adjust and tighten the width. I think all years have compatible crossbars. Might try and locate these. It appears the tie-down is also a screw. Are yours loose?