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RAYJON

RAYJON

Get a bigger hammer..
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Threads
114
Messages
2,008
Location
Reno NV
I brought up the topic of doing a monthy evening/day to help each other with our crusiers.. We have a great group with alot of different skills. So why not help each other out..

so please post up what you might need some help with and/or ideas on how to work this...

BTW.. the owner of the cruiser we are working on must supply the beer.....
 
RAYJON said:
I brought up the topic of doing a monthy evening/day to help each other with our crusiers.. We have a great group with alot of different skills. So why not help each other out..

so please post up what you might need some help with and/or ideas on how to work this...

BTW.. the owner of the cruiser we are working on must supply the beer.....
Click to expand...

Hope everyone likes PBR!!!:flipoff2:
 
Great idea Ray. Even with bad beer:beer:. I think some of us-me included are to proud :mad:to ask for help. And sometimes things or projects can kick your butt:hhmm::bang:. Either I put it off or don't do it at all, as my garage can atest to. So... who needs help?:o Lets do this. Fun to get togethr if ya'll have the time. I have a squeak in my drivetrain when I put power to it. I don't have a clue:crybaby:. Will try to get some grease in the sealed driveline CV joint. Maybe check brake pads??? Any ideas??:meh:
 
Just got under the rig and decided that this fall will begin the de-rustification of my undercarriage. The past 4 years of winter driving in Tahoe has taken its toll. Any recommendations on best rattle can practices, or upgrade to some stronger spray-on protection?

Also have to do something about blasting the powdercoating off my sliders (rusting from under the powdercoat) so I can rattle can those.

And it looks like I have a minor leak on my inner CV boot on the passenger side, as well as a leak from the seals at the CV axle/differential. (May save this for the dealer if it's covered by my extended warranty, as the whole thing will be a greasy mess and risk of screwing something up is high).

Any advice/recommendations is appreciated.

And I buy really tasty beer.
 
ksheffield said:
Just got under the rig and decided that this fall will begin the de-rustification of my undercarriage. The past 4 years of winter driving in Tahoe has taken its toll. Any recommendations on best rattle can practices, or upgrade to some stronger spray-on protection?

Also have to do something about blasting the powdercoating off my sliders (rusting from under the powdercoat) so I can rattle can those.

And it looks like I have a minor leak on my inner CV boot on the passenger side, as well as a leak from the seals at the CV axle/differential. (May save this for the dealer if it's covered by my extended warranty, as the whole thing will be a greasy mess and risk of screwing something up is high).

Any advice/recommendations is appreciated.

And I buy really tasty beer.
Click to expand...

Keith,

A little CV grease/lube seepage is normal per Toyota. If its under warranty by all means take it in ASAP. But if not I wouldn't worry about it unless its puking grease/making a mess.

I've rebuilt/rebooted mine quite a few times and can tell you the factory reboot/band kits don't necessarily eliminate minor seepage for long...but its not a bad job albeit a messy job to rebuild them ;)

FWIW: RCV Performance offers extreme heavy duty replacement CV shaft assemblies for the FJC. They are just about to offer the same for us 100-Series owners!

Dan
 
spressomon said:
Keith,

A little CV grease/lube seepage is normal per Toyota. If its under warranty by all means take it in ASAP. But if not I wouldn't worry about it unless its puking grease/making a mess.

I've rebuilt/rebooted mine quite a few times and can tell you the factory reboot/band kits don't necessarily eliminate minor seepage for long...but its not a bad job albeit a messy job to rebuild them ;)

FWIW: RCV Performance offers extreme heavy duty replacement CV shaft assemblies for the FJC. They are just about to offer the same for us 100-Series owners!

Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan. The boot isn't torn, and the Yota dealer in Bend, Ore. (where I spent a couple days my vacation last week) said it was really minor. I'm probably more concerned about the diff seal at the axle at this point. Once I get a chance to dig up my extended warranty paperwork, I'll probably take it in.

Keith
 
Oh yeah, had the OME medium kit installed at MetalTech on Tuesday after Labor Day. My buddy and I were going to do the install, but it looked like a bomb went off in his garage, and we were skeptical of the clearance between my roof rack and his garage door. His sloped driveway eliminated our other install locale option.

And since I ordered the kit from MetalTech, and they had the new hydraulic lift in their shop, the time savings was worth the money. Truck rides soooooooooooo much better now. Thank you tax refund.
 
ksheffield said:
Just got under the rig and decided that this fall will begin the de-rustification of my undercarriage. The past 4 years of winter driving in Tahoe has taken its toll. Any recommendations on best rattle can practices, or upgrade to some stronger spray-on protection?

Also have to do something about blasting the powdercoating off my sliders (rusting from under the powdercoat) so I can rattle can those.

And it looks like I have a minor leak on my inner CV boot on the passenger side, as well as a leak from the seals at the CV axle/differential. (May save this for the dealer if it's covered by my extended warranty, as the whole thing will be a greasy mess and risk of screwing something up is high).

Any advice/recommendations is appreciated.

And I buy really tasty beer.
Click to expand...

I hear you can get POR-15 in a spray can. I've never used it, but I know people who have. They say it's the best $$ they've ever spent on painting and undercarriage. Once it's on, you can go over the top with rustoleum and you are done for a long time.

Otherwise, I just wire brush it, then prime it with rustoleum and then paint flat black over the top. Usually lasts a couple years.
 
be careful with por15 when you put it there its there..

it will dry hard as a rock...

also use in a well ventaled area... and use a brush it will flow out and look good.. I would be scared to spray it unless you cover everything...any overspray would be a b@#$% to clean...
 
ok back on track..

anyone need help now.

and can we get a list going for future projects
 
Ill probably need help removing my tub in a couple of months so I can paint my frame and such. Once that is done...Ill need help putting it back on so I can actually paint the tub.
When I get to the wiring, I could use any and all the help I can get with that. I know NOTHING about the electronics stuff.
Dont even know how to use a tester, how to read a tester or how to read the schematics. Hope to learn it though.

Mark...when are you gonna have the gang down?
 
Now that I know there is cheap labor available here, guess I'm going to have to become a paid member and get a Yota that I have to work on.

Unless you guys like working on brand XYZ rigs....
 
WILLD420 said:
Now that I know there is cheap labor available here, guess I'm going to have to become a paid member and get a Yota that I have to work on.

Unless you guys like working on brand XYZ rigs....
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CHEAP!?!?!
Do you have ANY IDEA how much BEER i can drink?:D:beer:
 
Give me a few weeks to finish up some home projects and I'll be ready to do a knuckle re-build on the 60.

I heard Keith has specialized skills in the initial phase, tear down, we'll save that for him.:flipoff2:
 
rusty_tlc said:
Give me a few weeks to finish up some home projects and I'll be ready to do a knuckle re-build on the 60.

I heard Keith has specialized skills in the initial phase, tear down, we'll save that for him.:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Dude...Im WAAAAAY OCD on this! I really HATE gunked up knuckle components! I just spent H O U R S on cleaning all my parts.
 
chicago said:
Dude...Im WAAAAAY OCD on this! I really HATE gunked up knuckle components! I just spent H O U R S on cleaning all my parts.
Click to expand...
The knuckles on the 60 are in pretty good shape, just starting to puke, it shouldn't take much to clean the outside up. I'll take them to the quarter wash and give them a soak with oven cleaner followed by a good hosing with the power wash before I start the tear down.

I think I'm going with all synth oils and grease on this one, according to what I've read, and what Shawn told me, synth oil makes the auto lockers operate a lot smoother.
 
Rusty: What about the front diff/locker on the Hundy?
 
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