Modifying 4x4Labs bumper?

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Since we have a nice pool of knowledge on building the 4x4Labs rear bumper, I'm wondering what the collective wisdom is on the following...........

I didn't go w/ the swingout, but instead have the cut steel filler plug welded in where a spindle would go. Do you think it's feasible to remove this filler and weld in a spindle? without destroying the bumper?

Obviously when building it you cannot weld all the way around the base of this rod at the bottom of the bumper. However I don't know how or what you could get up in there to remove it.
 
Joe, with the right size hole saw, patience, and lots of cutting fluid, just locate and cut through where you welded it in. what made you change your mind?

:beer: R
 
I haven't changed my mind, just considering my options. The spare takes up too much space inside and an interior tire carrier doesn't seem likely. I've been thinking about a swing-out; cutting a hole in the floor and building a box underneath. Or I may just live with it.
 
I haven't done the swingout on mine yet. I need to get the tube to be ready. If everyone wants to get together to do a swing out build, I'd be greatly appreciative.

I was asking Ramon some of the specifics about the spindle. I've got Iron Pig's spindle, and it's a different diameter than what is cut out of the bumper. I didn't know if the spindle was welded or the collar or both. I know Greg did the IP spindle, with Jerry, so hopefully they'll chime in.

I also need to do some fine tuning of the bumper like welding some end caps on the tubes... So far my Rustoleum Professional spray paint has held up and still looks good...
 
Regarding Joe's original post, I'm with Ramon if a spindle used needed that size hole.

I also agree with Brian that the spindle sizes vary and it might not be necessary to "remove" the plug. Think how strong the spindle would be if it were welded into a hole drilled in the plug. I have Luke's spindle (1.75") and with the Iron Pig spindle @ 1.5", I could see drilling into the plug, welding the spindle into the plug. This is assuming the plug is solidly welded into the bumper.

I'm in the same boat as Ramon, Brian and maybe Joe, if he decideds to go the "swinger" route. I need to get mine made also and finish all the little stuff like Brian.

I can envision hosting a HAMOM to get these done. I would think we would need a "design" meeting so we could make this happen. Mine will be double swinger w/gas can/water can/cooler rack and mounts for high lift.

I was planning on hosting a HAMOM in the near future to ask for help swapping the axles on our 80. I'm currently re-gearing/servicing the factory e-lockers I picked up to swap out the non-locking axles. I don't think its feasible to do swing outs and axle swap the same day.

So, I'm up for hosting a HAMOM for a swing-out build day, assuming we can all find a day we can get together.
 
Not to hijack but since this is a thead about 4x4 labs rear bumpers

How much needs to be cut off the rear frame for the bumper. I have a custom made bumper that I keep going back and forward about installing incase I ever get a 4x4 labs one.

Now i'm just going to install it but want to cut the same amount off of the rear frame so when I do eventually get a 4x4 labs one I can just cut the old one off and install the new one.
 
here you go...
4x4bumper-02.jpg
 
It's right at 4" Al - and before any of you smartasses make any jokes, I am referring to how much to cut off the frame. :flipoff2:

I just emailed Luke and he has recommended not to go w/ a single arm as they are a pain to get the latch figured out. I'm fine w/ that, and plan to do 2 of his arms - tire carrier and just a license plate for now. Something like this, but w/ tire on d.s. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/289068-4x4-labs-swing-out-preference.html#post4517406 This will allow us to add another "attachment", ie jerry can holder, ladder, etc at any time w/o worrying about the powdercoating on the swingarm itself.

:beer: R
 
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Jerry let's have a design mtg some time soon for those who want a swingout. It seems as if we can come up with a base design for the spindle and arm(s), then add to this base design to accomodate other needs.

Is the IPOR spindle the best choice? I haven't been following all of the threads on the 80's board; if it is, I'll go ahead and snag one right away.

My wrist is still buggered up so for an axle swap HAMOM, I would be happy to get beers, tools, etc for you guys. And supervise. ;)
 
I agree Joe. The IPOR spindle is under $50, 4X4 Labs is $125. In as much as I LOVE the 4X4 design, beefiness and rated poundage, the IPOR is stout and rebuildable also. Seems the smart money would be on the IPOR.

I have 3 calls in for price quotes on steel, FABCO, Peak Steel and where Stan gets his steel in SC, they deliver this far. As an example of prices...20' 3"x2"x .120" wall goes for $154, $7.70/ft, 2X2X.120" wall is $112, 5.60/ft, crazy...
 
I'm in the same boat as you Jerry, tire on one side, and a cooler/jerrycan on the other. I'm flexible, so we can come up with a similar design...

I'm in for a steel delivery, as one of things that has prevented me from doing this sooner, is just making a trip over to buy some....

Let's do this...
 
I got price quotes back and good ole Shep at Fabco is still the cheapest. I didn't ask for any quotes on round tubing (since I have some on hand), but his prices for 2x2 square tubing, 3x2 rectangle tubing and plate steel was much less than Peak Steel in Apex.

I can take on the steel order if people want me to.

I'm planning on using 2x3x.120 wall rectangle tubing for the base (welded to the spindle), using 1.75/.120 round tube for the "main hoops" and 1.5/.120 tubing for the "small" stuff (jerry can/cooler rack).

I was planning on making my order by the end of the week (I need some square tubing for another project), so if others know what material they plan on using, let me know and I'll order it.

Yes, lets do this, mine is long overdue...
 
I'm in Jerry, I'll just piggyback off whatever material you're using since I have no preference. I'm just looking to do the tire carrier, I don't want a 2nd swingout for other stuff.
 
I'm the same as you Jerry, just add in a little extra tube as I wouldn't mind having a taller coooler/jerry can holder that could double as a ladder to the roof rack....
 
Cool, I'll order a couple extra sticks of each to make sure I have enough laying around for the tasks at hand.

My other project is a welding table, I'm getting to old to always be welding on the floor or setting my Workmate on fire in the garage. I'm building the welding table off Miller's website, it will be able to roll, 4'x6' with a plasma chute, another important need to stop setting fires around the shop. I need to order all the materials for this project so I can get it built for the "Swinger HAMOM"...
 
Steel is ordered, not sure when it will get hear, maybe late this week/early next week.

Prices have gone through the roof for steel, why it took a while to get it ordered. Shep called around to fine the best deal, he said steel from the "north" is cheaper, so its coming from Virginia.

A "stick" (~20') of 1.75" DOM 11 gauge tubing $221 = $11.05/ft
A stick of 1.5" DOM 11 gauge tubing is $199 = $9.95/ft

I paid under $6/ft when I bought the steel to build my trailer, crazy. This is why Stan said the Metaltech cage is such a good deal, can't get the raw steel for the price one can get it already bent up. They are so close to the Portland port, they are probably getting a container of steel from India or something.

As I understand, the flooding in Aus all but halted "coke" production, a key ingrediant for steel production and 90% of the steel industry got their coke from Aus.

When should we try to get together for a bit of brainstorming and design ideas. I typically don't get home until after 7:30 or later, depending on the day and how long it takes for events to end during the week. Otherwise, I'm pretty much in the garage all weekend trying to keep on track with my long list of projects.

If I have the head count right, we have Jerry (double swinger), Brian, and possibly Joe and Ramon, is that right?

I'll also start trying to find a latch more to my liking or we could do like Stan does and just make our own out of some threaded rod and a bit of fabrication...
 
For the double swingouts does it make sense to do a Destaco latch on each arm, and have them latch to themselves, rather than the bumper? Is there too much play that they might de-latch?

I was going to go the latch route, but I'm game for anything.

I just can't do anything this weekend, something about a 11 year wedding anniversary that I can't do anything about! :princess:
 
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