More for me to keep a log of stuff, but figured I’d put up relevant info along the way to help folks out, or maybe get some help.
Built a couple 100s, an 80. Probably grab a 200 soon. This rig I bought with the intention of giving to my daughter in a couple years.
2007gx470
Non nav/non kdss
Picked it up with 200k on it, spotty service and in need of a refresher or three. Leather is normal Toyota trashed level. Will fix that down the line. New foam and leather winter 24.
Sitting at 269k right now and I had about enough of the blown out suspension. Ripped everything apart Thursday evening and got to work.
1) Steering rack replaced. OEM reman from Toyota. I picked this up last year on a sale, forget the price and dealer but solid deal if I remember correctly. It sat on a dog kennel for about a year until this weekend
-This job sucks, but I had everything on the front end out already because of OME kit, arms, sway, tie rods, knuckle calipers etc. my bushings were shot, zero fluid in the system and I’m genuinely shocked that I was able to ride out 40k with essentially a dried out steering rack on no bushings. Toyota eh? Don’t do this folks. I’m a fool and push things past the point I should. It could have done a ton more damage, and I’m sure altered the lifespan of some parts.
-if you’re doing this job, go ahead and get new reservoir hoses. My HP and return on the rack were in fine shape, but I chased air in the system for half a day before realizing the underside of the outlet line on the reservoir cracked cleanly in half. Eventually I’ll replace the HP line and return from the gear but I saw nothing that warranted adding more work at the time (and money) and the hoses are easy enough to get to on their own.
-I did this solo with the occasional help from my pops (he has a big shop and 40 years worth of tools, I do all my auto work at his place). There is only one part I can think of needing help from someone being vital, and that’s once everything is unbuttoned and you’re shimmying it out of the front end. I couldn’t get the tie rod busted off, so I ended up cutting at the rod and replacing with 555. Original were 555 and boots are in good shape. Unsure if prior replacement before me buying it. Would have to be, given the mileage and rack condition.
-the job really only takes about 8 hours, but give yourself some extra, especially if you haven’t done one before. I did one on my 100 two years ago and equally as sucky.
-Happy with the results and feel, long overdue and I’m good for another 150 I hope.
2) Entire front end (almost) was replaced with the OME 2.5 on standard load.
-OME struts and springs. The PO had replaced original system with strutmaster. This made my truck ride like the ultimate s***box and I could hear what sounded like the dwarves from lord of the rings mining away some metal every time I hit a bump. My neighbors used to look at me coming down our bumpy road. Comical, but again….Toyota eh? I went ahead with MT kit because the PO just threw some s*** quality springs and shocks in and called it a day. Absolutely god awful ride quality when combined with a clapped out suspension all the way around.
-I went ahead and did sway bar links (stuck in the knuckle so a cut and press out was the way to go. I’m ordering some adjustable, but there is parts house brand in there right now just to get it going. Suggestions welcome but they’re all pretty much the same once you upgrade.
-tie rod ends. Simple enough, go 555 for these. Parts house are 42, partsouq is 21 plus shipping. Partsouq screwed me on an order two weeks ago, and still didn’t get it to me in time. They shipped it conveniently enough the day I canceled the order. I took screenshots of email and their own cancellation policy. I disputed the transaction with my CC company because of the shipping debacle. TBD how it goes, but this really ticked me off and it’s the first time they hVe missed the deadline for me (by a country mile).
-on order is an entire new wheel huh assembly. I saw nothing that looked or felt concerning in the wheel bearings, but just to be safe I’m going to put new ones in. I’ll do this when I replace the Cv axles, and I feel a vibration and have torn boots on axles. CVJ is who I will go with here. Save a couple hundred and I had decent runs with them on my 100s.
-I have LCA bushings and cam tabs/alignment tabs on order. I’m debating whether I just replace the entire arm, but it’s 80 per arm for bushings, and 40 for BJ. Plus about 2 hours of my time. Hard to justify 600 versus 300 and an evening. TBD what happens here, but I’m not in a hurry to spend more on that right now. Given the luck I have with these trucks.
3) power stop towing and truck kit. Self explanatory. I hate the amount of brake dust and fade I had on system. Cheapest OEM rotors I could find were 300 local, which puts me at the same price as the powerstip kit.
-this job is the easiest one you can do aside from fluid changes. Everything went together smoothly.
-flushes on this is simple too. Tons of threads all over regarding how to do this. If no hiccups on this job, just a little messy without a proper hose. Old fluid was s***e, new fluid went in. Break in pads like you would any other set.
-greatly improved my braking, but my old set of rotors and pads were trash. I’ll eventually update the calipers, but probably just rebuild and keep stock. Simple job and I’d rather have OeM.
Hints.
Don’t buy non one axles seals. Ask me how I know. I knew better, but was in a bind. Ended up adding an extra half day to my job when I inevitably went running around looking for Toyota seals. When I found them, they were 67 a piece. Ripoff but managed to talk the guy into price match and got them for a little less than 50 a pop I think. They popped right in though. Use your dust cover and a dead blow to seat. Flawless installation
Buy reservoir hoses for PS if you do the rack. The old hose sees a ton of heat and is just waiting for a chance to split. This might be a regular 100k item for me anyways. Rack sucks replacing so I’d rather just keep up with fluid and hoses to keep air and fluid breakdown away from everything.
I needed up flushing the coolant as well when I disconnected the hose off the oil filter housing.
Next up on the list.
-alignment this week. Right after, 255/80r17 going on. Perfect tire for my use of this truck. Forest service roads and long trips to BC during bear season. I like the feel and MPG, plus the look. Tall skinny’s are the bees knees for non crawling use. For me anyways.
-timing belt/water pump. Will do fan clutch, radiator and hoses when I do this job. Probably hold off on cam seals with the VVTI, haven’t messed with them before. I’ll see if they’re leaking when the time comes. No idea when the belt was last done, so this is pretty critical but I’ve never had one fail. No leaks in cooling system and zero overheating, so I feel confident I’ll be ok for another week or two.
-trans fluid drain and fill. I might have the local shop do this with the alignment. TEQ heads and I trust them completely. Given the mileage and lack of records, opting for what those guys feel comfortable doing. No less than a drain and fill, hopefully pull pan and go that route. I have only done pre 03 100s with a dipstick and fill. I know it’s simple to do the other ones, but just don’t feel like doing it.
-fluid changes for diffs and transfer case. Regular maintenance item, curious to see the condition.
-interior will be redone locally, ordered new foam and will have local shop install. They’re good and cheap. Not a fan of fancy work in a hunting/DD rig. Wil throw carhartt covers on everything when done.
-have coastal off road armor on the way. Have a welder and I’m a cheap bastard. For the price of a nice dissent bumper, I have front,rear, sliders. Wil order skid set soon, but not super important. I don’t crawl, and the biggest need for me is living in Houston and people stealing converters.
-tiny rear main leak. Insignificant right now and will 205 it. Eventually will fix but not until I have to.
Built a couple 100s, an 80. Probably grab a 200 soon. This rig I bought with the intention of giving to my daughter in a couple years.
2007gx470
Non nav/non kdss
Picked it up with 200k on it, spotty service and in need of a refresher or three. Leather is normal Toyota trashed level. Will fix that down the line. New foam and leather winter 24.
Sitting at 269k right now and I had about enough of the blown out suspension. Ripped everything apart Thursday evening and got to work.
1) Steering rack replaced. OEM reman from Toyota. I picked this up last year on a sale, forget the price and dealer but solid deal if I remember correctly. It sat on a dog kennel for about a year until this weekend
-This job sucks, but I had everything on the front end out already because of OME kit, arms, sway, tie rods, knuckle calipers etc. my bushings were shot, zero fluid in the system and I’m genuinely shocked that I was able to ride out 40k with essentially a dried out steering rack on no bushings. Toyota eh? Don’t do this folks. I’m a fool and push things past the point I should. It could have done a ton more damage, and I’m sure altered the lifespan of some parts.
-if you’re doing this job, go ahead and get new reservoir hoses. My HP and return on the rack were in fine shape, but I chased air in the system for half a day before realizing the underside of the outlet line on the reservoir cracked cleanly in half. Eventually I’ll replace the HP line and return from the gear but I saw nothing that warranted adding more work at the time (and money) and the hoses are easy enough to get to on their own.
-I did this solo with the occasional help from my pops (he has a big shop and 40 years worth of tools, I do all my auto work at his place). There is only one part I can think of needing help from someone being vital, and that’s once everything is unbuttoned and you’re shimmying it out of the front end. I couldn’t get the tie rod busted off, so I ended up cutting at the rod and replacing with 555. Original were 555 and boots are in good shape. Unsure if prior replacement before me buying it. Would have to be, given the mileage and rack condition.
-the job really only takes about 8 hours, but give yourself some extra, especially if you haven’t done one before. I did one on my 100 two years ago and equally as sucky.
-Happy with the results and feel, long overdue and I’m good for another 150 I hope.
2) Entire front end (almost) was replaced with the OME 2.5 on standard load.
-OME struts and springs. The PO had replaced original system with strutmaster. This made my truck ride like the ultimate s***box and I could hear what sounded like the dwarves from lord of the rings mining away some metal every time I hit a bump. My neighbors used to look at me coming down our bumpy road. Comical, but again….Toyota eh? I went ahead with MT kit because the PO just threw some s*** quality springs and shocks in and called it a day. Absolutely god awful ride quality when combined with a clapped out suspension all the way around.
-I went ahead and did sway bar links (stuck in the knuckle so a cut and press out was the way to go. I’m ordering some adjustable, but there is parts house brand in there right now just to get it going. Suggestions welcome but they’re all pretty much the same once you upgrade.
-tie rod ends. Simple enough, go 555 for these. Parts house are 42, partsouq is 21 plus shipping. Partsouq screwed me on an order two weeks ago, and still didn’t get it to me in time. They shipped it conveniently enough the day I canceled the order. I took screenshots of email and their own cancellation policy. I disputed the transaction with my CC company because of the shipping debacle. TBD how it goes, but this really ticked me off and it’s the first time they hVe missed the deadline for me (by a country mile).
-on order is an entire new wheel huh assembly. I saw nothing that looked or felt concerning in the wheel bearings, but just to be safe I’m going to put new ones in. I’ll do this when I replace the Cv axles, and I feel a vibration and have torn boots on axles. CVJ is who I will go with here. Save a couple hundred and I had decent runs with them on my 100s.
-I have LCA bushings and cam tabs/alignment tabs on order. I’m debating whether I just replace the entire arm, but it’s 80 per arm for bushings, and 40 for BJ. Plus about 2 hours of my time. Hard to justify 600 versus 300 and an evening. TBD what happens here, but I’m not in a hurry to spend more on that right now. Given the luck I have with these trucks.
3) power stop towing and truck kit. Self explanatory. I hate the amount of brake dust and fade I had on system. Cheapest OEM rotors I could find were 300 local, which puts me at the same price as the powerstip kit.
-this job is the easiest one you can do aside from fluid changes. Everything went together smoothly.
-flushes on this is simple too. Tons of threads all over regarding how to do this. If no hiccups on this job, just a little messy without a proper hose. Old fluid was s***e, new fluid went in. Break in pads like you would any other set.
-greatly improved my braking, but my old set of rotors and pads were trash. I’ll eventually update the calipers, but probably just rebuild and keep stock. Simple job and I’d rather have OeM.
Hints.
Don’t buy non one axles seals. Ask me how I know. I knew better, but was in a bind. Ended up adding an extra half day to my job when I inevitably went running around looking for Toyota seals. When I found them, they were 67 a piece. Ripoff but managed to talk the guy into price match and got them for a little less than 50 a pop I think. They popped right in though. Use your dust cover and a dead blow to seat. Flawless installation
Buy reservoir hoses for PS if you do the rack. The old hose sees a ton of heat and is just waiting for a chance to split. This might be a regular 100k item for me anyways. Rack sucks replacing so I’d rather just keep up with fluid and hoses to keep air and fluid breakdown away from everything.
I needed up flushing the coolant as well when I disconnected the hose off the oil filter housing.
Next up on the list.
-alignment this week. Right after, 255/80r17 going on. Perfect tire for my use of this truck. Forest service roads and long trips to BC during bear season. I like the feel and MPG, plus the look. Tall skinny’s are the bees knees for non crawling use. For me anyways.
-timing belt/water pump. Will do fan clutch, radiator and hoses when I do this job. Probably hold off on cam seals with the VVTI, haven’t messed with them before. I’ll see if they’re leaking when the time comes. No idea when the belt was last done, so this is pretty critical but I’ve never had one fail. No leaks in cooling system and zero overheating, so I feel confident I’ll be ok for another week or two.
-trans fluid drain and fill. I might have the local shop do this with the alignment. TEQ heads and I trust them completely. Given the mileage and lack of records, opting for what those guys feel comfortable doing. No less than a drain and fill, hopefully pull pan and go that route. I have only done pre 03 100s with a dipstick and fill. I know it’s simple to do the other ones, but just don’t feel like doing it.
-fluid changes for diffs and transfer case. Regular maintenance item, curious to see the condition.
-interior will be redone locally, ordered new foam and will have local shop install. They’re good and cheap. Not a fan of fancy work in a hunting/DD rig. Wil throw carhartt covers on everything when done.
-have coastal off road armor on the way. Have a welder and I’m a cheap bastard. For the price of a nice dissent bumper, I have front,rear, sliders. Wil order skid set soon, but not super important. I don’t crawl, and the biggest need for me is living in Houston and people stealing converters.
-tiny rear main leak. Insignificant right now and will 205 it. Eventually will fix but not until I have to.
