Well the wreck 1985 hj75 troopy is a bit of a dog, cracked chassis, loose spring ubolts. Have seen worse rust though. I got it, as I have a fairly sweet, well loved 1988 troopy, so I can pull things to learn such as clutch and engine, during lockdown. Needed a spare straight rear axle housing too.
It was very neglected and altered by a butcher. The wiring is a dog's breakfast. Thick oil , grease and mud everywhere on everything. Wasp nest..
Before I get too carried away restoring chassis and suspension, I better check if the 2h engine even runs. The motor is not seized, I can turn the crank by hand.
I am pulling the glowplugs and injectors. The sedimenter wires were cut. That is ok as I like a secondary donaldson fuel filter/water separator and have already ordered it. Lots of carbon oil around exhaust manifold. Sort out warning lights later.
Plan is;
Clean injectors at least visual check, (info if ebay elcheapo injecter testers are worthwhile?)
replace rusted broken glow plugs,
Pull the starter and check if runs connected straight to battery, (can I do that?)
replace exhaust manifold gasket, (very carbon dirty ,loose as a goose
)
change disgusting engine oil and filters.
Hoping to test without the nightmare loom which has been butchered and bypassed many times over.
I need battery connected to fuse then to a starter switch,
starter switch to fuse to glow plug relay,
Battery to fuse to glow plug relay,
glow relay to bus bar,
starter switch to starter relay (solenoid?),
battery to fuse to starter relay to starter.
battery to starter when starter relay kicks in (why it seems like and looks like a solenoid to me)
Get rid of preheating timer use wilson switch. (If I dig up some 6v glow plugs count to 10, if 12v glow plugs count to 20?)
Sounds confusing! If anyone understands this language, you are a better man than I. If anyone can rattle off amperage of fuses that would be even more amazing.
Do I need the edic? Can I just have fuel running to the injector pump? Pull the fuel pump lever forward when I want the engine to stop? Do I need an over injection magnet? Is that what the edic is?
So something like a test run of the engine out of the chassis, but in the chassis.
Also oil pressure, water temp gauges.
Does this sound approximately the right direction/plan?
Somethings, of course, I shall not know until I get there.
It was very neglected and altered by a butcher. The wiring is a dog's breakfast. Thick oil , grease and mud everywhere on everything. Wasp nest..
Before I get too carried away restoring chassis and suspension, I better check if the 2h engine even runs. The motor is not seized, I can turn the crank by hand.
I am pulling the glowplugs and injectors. The sedimenter wires were cut. That is ok as I like a secondary donaldson fuel filter/water separator and have already ordered it. Lots of carbon oil around exhaust manifold. Sort out warning lights later.
Plan is;
Clean injectors at least visual check, (info if ebay elcheapo injecter testers are worthwhile?)
replace rusted broken glow plugs,
Pull the starter and check if runs connected straight to battery, (can I do that?)
replace exhaust manifold gasket, (very carbon dirty ,loose as a goose
)
change disgusting engine oil and filters.
Hoping to test without the nightmare loom which has been butchered and bypassed many times over.
I need battery connected to fuse then to a starter switch,
starter switch to fuse to glow plug relay,
Battery to fuse to glow plug relay,
glow relay to bus bar,
starter switch to starter relay (solenoid?),
battery to fuse to starter relay to starter.
battery to starter when starter relay kicks in (why it seems like and looks like a solenoid to me)
Get rid of preheating timer use wilson switch. (If I dig up some 6v glow plugs count to 10, if 12v glow plugs count to 20?)
Sounds confusing! If anyone understands this language, you are a better man than I. If anyone can rattle off amperage of fuses that would be even more amazing.
Do I need the edic? Can I just have fuel running to the injector pump? Pull the fuel pump lever forward when I want the engine to stop? Do I need an over injection magnet? Is that what the edic is?
So something like a test run of the engine out of the chassis, but in the chassis.
Also oil pressure, water temp gauges.
Does this sound approximately the right direction/plan?
Somethings, of course, I shall not know until I get there.
