It does sort of screw up readimade bumpers and sliders. But if you are making your own this is a real advantage, because your mounts can go straight off the frame and clear the underside of the body. For the home fabricator this makes it a lot easier. Someday, I'll be doing a body lift on my 80. I can clear my 315s with just the Js. When I go to 36/37s when the 80 goes away from a dual purpose vehicle then I'll do a body lift so my suspension mods don't have to be redone. If you do a minimum lift <2 inches it will take a trained eye to notice if you aren't running factory bumpers. I imagine if you go more than that your ARB will start to have headlight problems.
Marks 4WD 50mm body lift install
- Thread starter mickey_rubicon
- Start date
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ginericfj80 said:
ARB and body lift, i really don't see a problem...
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I'd add that if you are considering doing a body lift to just surf Roger Brown's website. He has a really good write-up on how to do the install and it's pretty much the same on an 80.
If you are doing a 1" body lift you can get away with just re-drilling the mounting holes in the bib and the lower brackets for the radiator in order to keep it in the right place. All the other lines, linkages, etc can deal with it.
If you're going 2" or 3" and need the steering extension or shifter extension Roger's stuff for the Tacoma/4Runner might be the same since it's Toyota, don't know but worth a call.
I got the spacers in 1" diameter because I was unsure of clearance issues around the circumference of the spacer but after having done it I'd go with the 1.5" diameter spacers as they will spread the load better and will fit with no issues. Having the UHMW with the black dyed edges makes them completely unnoticeable. The hardware can be sourced locally and I gave the OEM hardware specs in my thread so you can buy it 1", 2" or 3" longer. The rear-most pair have to be flipped because there's no way to get even a 1" longer bolt into the rear body cavity.
Last, the 1" body lift isn't something you notice. AMMO's is hard to notice in person (EDIT) and it's a 2" body lift. I guess you really have to see it in person and especially see it wheel to appreciate what it gives you. In that pic above of AMMO remember he only has the standard 2.5" OME "heavy" lift and that's it. The rest is all tires with that body lift and he cleared that to the amazement of the onlookers. I would have said he "cleaned" it but he's got the body damage to say otherwise :hillbilly
If you are doing a 1" body lift you can get away with just re-drilling the mounting holes in the bib and the lower brackets for the radiator in order to keep it in the right place. All the other lines, linkages, etc can deal with it.
If you're going 2" or 3" and need the steering extension or shifter extension Roger's stuff for the Tacoma/4Runner might be the same since it's Toyota, don't know but worth a call.
I got the spacers in 1" diameter because I was unsure of clearance issues around the circumference of the spacer but after having done it I'd go with the 1.5" diameter spacers as they will spread the load better and will fit with no issues. Having the UHMW with the black dyed edges makes them completely unnoticeable. The hardware can be sourced locally and I gave the OEM hardware specs in my thread so you can buy it 1", 2" or 3" longer. The rear-most pair have to be flipped because there's no way to get even a 1" longer bolt into the rear body cavity.
Last, the 1" body lift isn't something you notice. AMMO's is hard to notice in person (EDIT) and it's a 2" body lift. I guess you really have to see it in person and especially see it wheel to appreciate what it gives you. In that pic above of AMMO remember he only has the standard 2.5" OME "heavy" lift and that's it. The rest is all tires with that body lift and he cleared that to the amazement of the onlookers. I would have said he "cleaned" it but he's got the body damage to say otherwise :hillbilly
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clownmidget said:
Ahhh, Mike...
I gots a two inch...+ EMU Heaveys and 37's and the proper wheel offset, no adj on the bumps...
-that is all
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
AMMO said:
Haha! Alright that looks good, but I think he was reffering to the top crossbar on the bullbar style ARB. I think he is right. It is possible with a 3" body lift that the headlights would be pointing right into the back side of the top bar.
Jason Andrews said:
Oh like the standard headlights are worth anything anyway....
I hear ya.
-Matt
come on man, you know what I meant and you know how much sleep I'm gettin'...
and ur truck ain't what's holdin' you back
AMMO said:
and ur truck ain't what's holdin' you back
clownmidget said:
MIKE, you know if 2" diameter pucks would fit?
Sam
Pskhaat
Tourer
Okay, so WHAT is the exact modifications needed even for a 1" body lift? Radiator mounts redrilled?
3fj40 said:
remove bottom "L"-brackets from both sides of radiator, mark new holes 1" lower on the "L". This will just barely fit near the corner of the bend of the bracket. Drill those holes (2 per bracket IIRC). Re-install the lower brackets to each lower side of radiator. Unfasten top mounts (2) that hold the top of the radiator to the front bib of truck. Drop radiator down so bottom mounts can now be fastened. Once bottom is tightened drill small pilot hole from inside engine bay through top radiator mounting tabs and through the front bib. I did this with a dremel with the flex neck and a 1/8" drill. I then drilled them out to the appropriate diameter from the front with a step drill (from snorkel install). I also took this opportunity to use different bolts to secure the top to make removing radiator easier (first brought to my attention by Big_Moose
). During this I did remove the fan shroud and fan/clutch so I had more room.
also, I probably mis-quoted myself in some places - the spacers from Roger I got were 2" in diameter and I would go to 2.5" diameter again if doing it now.
that's it. The only issue I have is that I have to give the gear selector a firmer push into "P" for it to click and allow me to remove the ignition key. becomes routine after about a dozen times. confuses the hell out of anyone else driving my truck
Ammo, what front bumper is that? Custom or ARB with hoops chopped and plating on top?
Looks perfect. Also think the body lift looks perfect.
Looks perfect. Also think the body lift looks perfect.
- Thread starter
- #33
"Any guesses as to why you'd have ot push the gear selector harder? The gear selector is an electronic switch, not mechanical. Are you sure the body lift is what caused it?" - \
I dont have a body lift setup yet and I have the same problem. I watch and smile others trying to figure it out. Especially at the toyota stealership. By the way thank you all for al the useful invaluable info, after I pick up some tires , gears and and ARBs, the body lift is getting done, - gitterdone!
I dont have a body lift setup yet and I have the same problem. I watch and smile others trying to figure it out. Especially at the toyota stealership. By the way thank you all for al the useful invaluable info, after I pick up some tires , gears and and ARBs, the body lift is getting done, - gitterdone!
