I’m doing 30k mile intervals on mine
Maintenance Schedule: New 2023
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WTITW
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I had Toyota do mine last and a land cruiser shop did my tranny. I assume they use Toyota OEM. I like using the shop for the tranny because they have a machine that uses the pump on the transmission to move the fluid and monitor its pressure. It’s only like 200 bucks for the tranny and another 175ish for the diffs and TC so I’ll probably just have the shop do them all together again next time also.
I've been doing every 5,000 miles. YouTuber Car Care Nut has a video on maintenance intervals and he also says at 6 months (whatever happens first). I've been mostly following his advice. He likes Toyota or Mobile 1. I've been using Costco synthetic, but recently picked up a case of Mobile 1 on sale. When I got my GX at 33,000 miles, I did all the fluids for peace of mind, see what things looked like, and just to base line everything. So that included coolant, brake, front/rear diff, transfer case (yes, I used the Toyota spec unicorn tears stuff at $80 a quart or whatever it was), transmission (3 or 4 drain/refills), and power steering. So far the plan's been:
Engine oil: 5k mi/6 mo
Transmission: 20k (one drain/refill)
Coolant: 50k/4 yrs
Power Steering: 40k
Brake Fluid: 2 yrs
Spark Plug: 90k
Diff/TC: 30k
I don't tow, but a few times a year I'll take trips with a large roof top box and do some mild trails.
I recently put in an OEM auxiliary transmission cooler (many thanks again to ACRAD). The transmission seems to be running about 10 deg F cooler which seems a bit less than what I've read other people report, but I haven't tracked whether they were using an OEM or aftermarket cooler. I think the OEM cooler is smaller than most of the aftermarket. On my last trip I saw a spike to 225F, but I mostly hover at around 200F. I've also got a full set of aftermaket skid plates so that might also be blocking some airflow to the transmission.
Engine oil: 5k mi/6 mo
Transmission: 20k (one drain/refill)
Coolant: 50k/4 yrs
Power Steering: 40k
Brake Fluid: 2 yrs
Spark Plug: 90k
Diff/TC: 30k
I don't tow, but a few times a year I'll take trips with a large roof top box and do some mild trails.
I recently put in an OEM auxiliary transmission cooler (many thanks again to ACRAD). The transmission seems to be running about 10 deg F cooler which seems a bit less than what I've read other people report, but I haven't tracked whether they were using an OEM or aftermarket cooler. I think the OEM cooler is smaller than most of the aftermarket. On my last trip I saw a spike to 225F, but I mostly hover at around 200F. I've also got a full set of aftermaket skid plates so that might also be blocking some airflow to the transmission.
r2m
Richard
Since I don't tow, but do have lower gears and diff locks front and rear, I still go with factory time table.
I have a very good qualified mechanic that does all the maintenance on my rig. Fewer worries.
I have a very good qualified mechanic that does all the maintenance on my rig. Fewer worries.
Diffs and TC fluids are affected the most by water/debris. My rear diff fluid especially gets gross after 1 year. The front isn't too bad and the TC usually looks fine. But I drive through lots of 2 ft plus deep creeks and mudholes. If you aren't doing that, 30k is probably fine for diffs and TCs.
Thanks.
Do you get water in your diffs by all those crossing is that what you mean by nasty? Or just worn out oil? If water does get in there and there is oil present will/can it still rust. Or does the damage come when the oil is basically replaced by the water?
I don’t drive through deep water so I feel fine about my interval. Initial factory change was fairly dirty.. subsequent changes fluid was still in good shape with minimal debris on magnet. Center diff fluid could have gone longer.
I also replaced front diff drain and fill plugs
www.kaon.com.au
www.kaon.com.au
I also replaced front diff drain and fill plugs
Front Diff Fill Plug for Toyota
Front diff fill plug to suit Toyota: Replace your damaged or missing front diff fill plug with our high-quality replacement part, designed to fit Toyota vehicles.
www.kaon.com.au
Front Diff Tool and 24mm Drain Plug Toyota Hilux KUN26 Prado 120/150 FJ Cruiser
Front Diff Tool and 24mm Drain Plug Toyota Hilux KUN26 Prado 120/150 FJ Cruiser
www.kaon.com.au
Also, these fluid changes are really easy for the DIYer and will be infinitely cheaper than going to the dealer. I got my GX as a certified pre-owned which included pre-paid maintenance for the next 4 services. I initially thought it was 4 oil changes. It turned out to be only 2 oil changes. Lexus calls for service appointments at 5k miles, but the 5k service is just inspection - no oil changes. Oil changes are only called out at the 10k mi interval. The invoice on my last included oil change was $230. The only fluid changed was oil. I paid about $4/qt for Costco synthetic on sale. GX takes about 8 qts. Stocked up on OEM filters on sale at about $5. So, since I save $200 with each oil change, I translate that to $200 more that I have to spend on other toys. The only "expensive" specialized tool I got for doing fluid changes was one of those vacuum pumps for doing the brakes so I could do it myself.
WTITW
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cosco all the way for oil. Genuine Lexus Parts | Bell Lexus North Scottsdale - https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com
Generally has the best price on oem parts. They do wholesale internet sales and have additional 12-15% off and free shipping every other month or so.
Generally has the best price on oem parts. They do wholesale internet sales and have additional 12-15% off and free shipping every other month or so.
Yeah service does look simple, I wish I had just thought about it and done it sooner since I’ve done a few water crossings, though nothing crazy. God willing fluid is still GTG! This is my first vehicle w/diffs so now I know to be more proactive. Oil change was easy and I bought the aluminum filter housing and gonna buy the oil filter drain tube one of these days to make the next change easier.
A hot diff will often suck in some water past the seals when it gets fully submerged in cold water. Even if you have an extended diff breather, which I do. My fluid is usually very dark brown after a year with a little light-colored fluid on top, which is the water/oil mixture. Needless to say it won't function as well as a lubricant if it's contaminated with creek water. It could also be somewhat worn from towing but I'm not totally sure.
It's also super easy to remove the rear fill plug and check the condition of the oil by dipping your finger in it. If its still fairly clear or caramel in color it's probably fine.
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For anyone interested, here is my full custom schedule with intervals. Mind you I drive about 30k miles a year:
Oil & Filter (8k)
F Pads (50k)
R Pads (30k)
Brake Fluid (30k)
Rotors (60k)
Align (7k)
Balance (7k)
Rotate (7k)
Air Filter (15k)
Cabin Filter (15k)
Power Steer Fluid (50k)
Coolant (30k)
Front/Rear Diff Dluid (30k)
Transfer Case Fluid (30k)
Trans Fluid Drain and fill (40k)
Grease Driveshafts (15k)
Sparks (60k)
Battery 24 months
Wipers inserts x3 (6k)
Oil & Filter (8k)
F Pads (50k)
R Pads (30k)
Brake Fluid (30k)
Rotors (60k)
Align (7k)
Balance (7k)
Rotate (7k)
Air Filter (15k)
Cabin Filter (15k)
Power Steer Fluid (50k)
Coolant (30k)
Front/Rear Diff Dluid (30k)
Transfer Case Fluid (30k)
Trans Fluid Drain and fill (40k)
Grease Driveshafts (15k)
Sparks (60k)
Battery 24 months
Wipers inserts x3 (6k)
Any reason you are replacing batteries in 24 months?
r2m
Richard
Your rotors only last about 60k miles? With a FL address, I don't assume you do a lot of hills and grades. Do you??
While I don't promote 10k oil changes nor disagree with your notion of more are better, you can send oil samples to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis to check a lot of the things you're concerned about. They provide a pretty good assessment of the oil performance, your OCI, and theorize what could be causing any anomalies. If there is any excess wear, it would show up in the elements report.
I used to get these done on my Subaru due to the finicky (aka like-to-explode) nature of their older turbocharged engines.
Here's a sample report from their website:
Good stuff. If you are still running the oe panasonic or any battery that has removeable caps check water level as per Lexus manuals. In addition adding a trickle charger if possible helps all the way.
Lastly if none of those are possible, keep an eye on battery health, and just slap in a 24F for $69 every so often from walmart.
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+1. You also need to establish a wear pattern over multiple ocs to find trends for your motor as a single report wont establish anything.While I don't promote 10k oil changes nor disagree with your notion of more are better, you can send oil samples to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis to check a lot of the things you're concerned about. They provide a pretty good assessment of the oil performance, your OCI, and theorize what could be causing any anomalies. If there is any excess wear, it would show up in the elements report.
I used to get these done on my Subaru due to the finicky (aka like-to-explode) nature of their older turbocharged engines.
Here's a sample report from their website:
In regards to labs everyone is different. Blackstone is good for their database comparison from other users, but their fuel dilution is off.
Other labs are good at providing a better individual picture without the database to compare it like polaris, wearcheck, oil analyzers.
Finally if oil reports are not something you are into, at least try to jump into oils with approvals, specifically have extended drain intervals testing approval. The approvals to look for are MB229.5, or MB229.71/2 rating/approval (not meets but is approved for is also important).
Filters I dont know what to recommend honestly due to the cartridge style filter the gx has, besides making sure your air filter is filtering and sealing well (the best oil filter is your air filter). Toyota can be used but it heavily favors flow over filtration. The TRD supposedly is an upgrade but no info on the filtration specs. Aftermarket is reboxing the same filter design in different packaging as lots of brands have been bought out by first choice (looking at mobil 1 compare it to another first choice brands filter). Frams specs are great, but the fine print says its an average of 3 seperate filters (cartriage and spin on).
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