Main Bearing Question - 1F

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Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Threads
14
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259
Location
San Pedro, CA.
Pulled my oil pan to change the gasket and check the bearings. I found the main bearings beginning to "flake" in spots. Will be changing both main and rod bearings. Oil pump is unblemished and within spec.

Now the question - Can I change the main bearings while the engine is in the vehicle? Have done it on previous Dodge projects. Is there any dowell pins to worry about?

Help from veteran cruiser motor builders would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
You should have noticed the main bearing had no retaining tab....

Therefor a dowel is needed to keep the bearing from spinning in the bore.....

The dowel is in the block bore so the crank has to be removed for bearing service........
 
I did notice "no tabs", but I when I referenced on lines parts books, a tab was shown. Oh well, now the real work begins!:crybaby:

At least the journals are not grooved. Out comes the plastigage. The best news is the journals are still std. diameter. Plenty of steel to work with if needed.

Thanks for the help.
 
You should have noticed the main bearing had no retaining tab....

Therefor a dowel is needed to keep the bearing from spinning in the bore.....

The dowel is in the block bore so the crank has to be removed for bearing service........

Holy s***, you're kidding?? Is it like that on 1F's only? 2F's? My 3B is tabbed...
 
People have been known to change out main bearings with the engine in the vehicle. It requires removing the timing gear cover, transmission, and, of course the oil pan. Then, you have to remove main caps one by one while suspending the crank by the remaining loosely bolted caps, essentially dropping the crank about an inch. You can then remove and replace the main bearings one by one, clearing the retaining pin/dowels.
 
People have been known to change out main bearings with the engine in the vehicle. It requires removing the timing gear cover, transmission, and, of course the oil pan. Then, you have to remove main caps one by one while suspending the crank by the remaining loosely bolted caps, essentially dropping the crank about an inch. You can then remove and replace the main bearings one by one, clearing the retaining pin/dowels.

I tried that method and its way,way to much trouble. :mad: You'll be hating it before its over.
 
After removing all mentioned above (to do an in-frame) there's really not that much effort remaining to pull the bitch out....
 

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