m101 side rail thickness to support roof top tent? (1 Viewer)

semlin

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ok, the siderails are done but 18" was not the right answer for me. Steve at EBI is happy to use these on his own m101 trailer, so I think I will drop down to 12" above the bed. the siderails do not extend the full length of the bed so this still leaves plenty of room to load and unload from the ends under the yakima rails even with the tailgate open.

the question is, what size bar stock to use? The photo shows 1.5" stock. it is beefy enough that I think you could roll the trailer over onto it. Steve felt 1" was too flimsy. I'm not so sure. there will be flex because there is no crossrail but i think once the yakima bars are in place it will be rigid enough. what do folks think? I am thinking with a second support arm attached to the vertical face that 1" stock will work as there will only be 13" or so of unbraced vertical. Otherwise 1.25". For me the lighter the better.

I am also going to have the top end corners changed to use short 45 degree pieces for what i think will be a better look.

these things are bolt on/bolt off by the way. if we can get this right he is willing to make up sets for others.
trailer 7.jpg
trailer 8.jpg
trailer 9.jpg
 

brownbear

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That's really cool! don't think I have seen that before.

I think 1 inch would be plenty, but I would make cross supports to join the 2 together. The 1 and half is beefy.

I like the integration at the back, using the jack in a receiver and bumper. That is a well thought out camping trailer.

Either way, 1 or 1.5 looks good. But I would have cross supports with either size. Something unbolting if you chose.
 

semlin

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it will use a set of yakima crossbars on artificial gutters mounted on the top rail. I think that maximizes the utility options with the trailer.
 

brownbear

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I think just some 1.5 steel across the top with a bolt on each end would look better and be much stronger. I think the Yakima's would look maybe out of place with all the strength on each side. Just use the same steel and box the ends to look smooth.........

but toss on the Yaks and we can see how it looks. :)
 

davegonz

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Instead of bolting from underneath the angled portion of the box, why don't you bolt on from the vertical underneath the top lip? You can weld a 1.5" spacer to the vertical tube to space the rack out enough to clear the lip. This way it might look a little cleaner.
 

semlin

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Instead of bolting from underneath the angled portion of the box, why don't you bolt on from the vertical underneath the top lip? You can weld a 1.5" spacer to the vertical tube to space the rack out enough to clear the lip. This way it might look a little cleaner.

there is not enough room on that vertical face for a big enough steel plate to take the lateral leverage/flex and still have clearance from the top of the tub, especially if you are using 1.5" bar stock the way it is made now. I may add a second bracket just as you suggest if I go with a smaller bar stock in order to shorten the length of the unbraced vertical and thus reduce leverage. we will build it without first and see how it flexes.

and browndog, if you weld the crossbars on you limit what you can do with the trailer. I couldn't carry a stove sitting upright, as one recent example.
 

brownbear

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and browndog, if you weld the crossbars on you limit what you can do with the trailer. I couldn't carry a stove sitting upright, as one recent example.

Hey I'm a Bear...

No I didn't say to weld the cross member on. I would use one bolt per side. Easy to remove and carry the stove as you say.
 
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simon,
i think 1" will work but you will have to gusset it in places.
for one, i would put them at the point where the support from underneath starts upward.
and then i would triangulate the corners up on top to keep it solid.
i would do this whether you use 1" or 1.5"
you will feel so much more stable by using gussets.
 

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