LX570 Intro & Needs Hep (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

You might want to look into what lug nuts will be required on the rims. Some of the aftermarket rims require ‘ET’ lugs. Tire rack will send along correct lugs, but they will probably be silver.
If you don’t need ET lugs, the McGuard spline drive are considered the best option.

Example ET lugs
DPAccessories LCE3N8HESBK04020 20 Black 14x1.5 Closed End Duplex ET Spline Lug Nuts for Aftermarket Wheels
https://a.co/d/dnYWXm6
 
Probably ET lugs required. This is from the 705 page. Should still confirm with Method or rim vendor though Z

D26A40C5-F804-4328-82F7-ECA4F2376DE6.png
 
Good call and I do need to call Method. The shop a buddy went to for his 4Runner lift and tires said they have them, but want to make sure it’s all set as Method would recommend.
 
Probably ET lugs required. This is from the 705 page. Should still confirm with Method or rim vendor though Z

View attachment 3162014

Good call and I do need to call Method. The shop a buddy went to for his 4Runner lift and tires said they have them, but want to make sure it’s all set as Method would recommend.

I just bought a set of Methods and was going to re-use a set of spline drive lugs that I bought from @grinchy but quickly hit same issue he did — the methods require the long shank spline nuts. So I bought the ones that method sells. They aren't as nice as the McGaurd spline drives but shaped very differently
 
I really appreciate your input! I was reading your thread, which I included in my initial post, before I even got the LX. Hell it was one of the contributing factors to me getting into an LX.

I just bought Method 705s in Titanium finish. Specs are 17 x 8.5, 5x150, 35mm offset and the Kenda 35x10.5r17s with matching spare. I think as I evaluate these I will either build towards the 37s or full width 35s on the next go around. Thank you for the link to the long travel AHC thread! I wanted something that was a relatively easy solution and would get me back on the trails soonest. Didn't hurt that the Kendas were very affordable from Walmart at $250 per.


Thank you for all of your help! I will be joining you in the 35" Kenda RT club! Tires should be here Thursday, not sure when the wheels will be here. I will keep this thread updated or maybe start a build thread.

This forum is awesome - I really appreciate everyone jumping in to give their thoughts, perspective, and share their experiences! Looking forward to contributing in the future and hopefully getting out there with some folks from here. Next year at Cruisers on the Rocks if nothing else.
As much as you want to go big, make sure that whatever size you go with, your SPARE TIRE matches!! Some here ignores the spare tire, which is blatantly wrong IMHO. Just as you found out, sh!t can happen on the trail. The last thing that you want is have mis-matched tires driving home. Please match your tire sizes!
 
I just bought a set of Methods and was going to re-use a set of spline drive lugs that I bought from @grinchy but quickly hit same issue he did — the methods require the long shank spline nuts. So I bought the ones that method sells. They aren't as nice as the McGaurd spline drives but shaped very differently
Waiting for Method to open and will call them. I appreciate the heads up! I will be on work travel as these are put on so getting ahead of any issues is ideal.

As much as you want to go big, make sure that whatever size you go with, your SPARE TIRE matches!! Some here ignores the spare tire, which is blatantly wrong IMHO. Just as you found out, sh!t can happen on the trail. The last thing that you want is have mis-matched tires driving home. Please match your tire sizes!

I have ordered a matching fifth wheel and tire combo. I thought about using one of the stock wheels and fitting a tire that would have a similar overall size, but figured just do it right. What if s*** happens and I am in a tough trail that requires really airing down etc?

One question on this front that I do have now. Will I need a high lift jack? I need to buy a jack anyway as the previous owner removed the stock one. Problem with high lift is where to put it so hoping I can just buy another stock one.
 
Waiting for Method to open and will call them. I appreciate the heads up! I will be on work travel as these are put on so getting ahead of any issues is ideal.



I have ordered a matching fifth wheel and tire combo. I thought about using one of the stock wheels and fitting a tire that would have a similar overall size, but figured just do it right. What if s*** happens and I am in a tough trail that requires really airing down etc?

One question on this front that I do have now. Will I need a high lift jack? I need to buy a jack anyway as the previous owner removed the stock one. Problem with high lift is where to put it so hoping I can just buy another stock one.

The problem you'd have with a hi-lift is the lack of jack points on a stock truck. Most jack from their sliders or front and rear jack points built into most offroa bumpers. There are some accessories that allow you to hi-lift from a tire etc but those are meant for recovery situations and not changing a tire.
 
The problem you'd have with a hi-lift is the lack of jack points on a stock truck. Most jack from their sliders or front and rear jack points built into most offroa bumpers. There are some accessories that allow you to hi-lift from a tire etc but those are meant for recovery situations and not changing a tire.
Got it, thank you. Will a normal jack work then? Even with the 35s?

I will get sliders but not immediately. Need to order the LC side skirts as I prefer not to chop the stock side steps.


On another note, and rather unfortunate, I should get the wheels in about a month. Vivid Racing just sent me an email stating they confirmed with Method they would arrive around 12/09, so about a week after that I should get them. Guess it gives me time to modify the front fender liner and all, saving me cost on installation.
 
Got it, thank you. Will a normal jack work then? Even with the 35s?

I will get sliders but not immediately. Need to order the LC side skirts as I prefer not to chop the stock side steps.


For changing on flat ground you should be fine. I’d definitely recommend one of these adapters from @LandCruiserPhil and a Jack base

 
+1 on the jack adaptor. The stock jack is actually impressive. With any aftermarket jack you have to make sure it has enough lift (not just start height, but actual lift). The 200 series has so much droop it takes quite a bit of jack lift to actually get a tire off the ground.
 
For changing on flat ground you should be fine. I’d definitely recommend one of these adapters from @LandCruiserPhil and a Jack base

Looks like they are out of stock for the 200/LX570 version
 
Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I can get Lexus/Toyota fluids? I have searched but not found anything very clear, concise, and validated. Seems to be people debating which other brands or weights can be used. I would prefer to only use Toyota/Lexus fluids, however would be open to the weights other brands have. In my track cars I have used Motul and Castrol, so I am not averse to other fluids, just want to ensure they're the right weight.


I want to do the differentials, transmission, transfer case, and power steering flush now. I will be adding the HWM/Winch and figure I can do radiator/coolant flush at that time, which will likely be toward the end of February or early March.
 
I dont think the stock jack on LX570 is useful. I couldn't even get my 570 up one side more than a centimeter with fully extended bottlejack which comes standard. I tried different mounting mounting points (factory recommended) and under the frame right where the wheel is.
Using wood blocks will get you up but its highly unstable.
I tried setting the truck AHC in low and high modes and it didn't help.

Getting a hilift or floor jack may help.
 
My recipe is 5” of rescue trax (I use Rototrax) and the stock jack. I have the cruiserphil adapter as well for the rear axle.
I’ve also carried rv level blocks, but the trax are already on the trip, so just less stuff.

Another option is an air or exhaust jack.
 
As can be seen in this post, the stock jack has about 12” of lift. That will certainly get a stock 200 tire in the air. You can also spin out the top to extend the start length of the jack.


For the LX, high mode would be easiest to lift from, since this is the state the suspension has the least droop in. You have to remember to space out the jack with the top screw as much as possible before starting to use the mechanical lift.
 
Looking at the oils below which all seem to be exact factory recommended specs. Please let me know your thoughts or if you have recommendations for sourcing.
Differential Oil:
  1. LiquiMoly GL-5 85W 90 Hypoid Gear Oil
  2. 85W90 Hypoid Gear Oil - Liqui Moly LM20010 - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/85w-90-hypoid-gear-oil-1-liter-lubro-moly-lm1035?ads_cmpid=352578559&ads_adid=22978217719&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85228362199&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-62861416980&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAg_KbBhDLARIsANx7wAxyekwnWDLobVwBV8pbuBzrvlnM38Htutk1Gr4MKTsj-gjrZdK9FsIaAnvpEALw_wcB#fitment
Transfer Case:
  1. Mobil 1 GL-5 75-90
  2. Amazon product ASIN B07F31DQQJ
Engine:
  1. Mobil 1 OW-20 Full Synthetic
  2. Amazon product ASIN B07B5XYD7K

I think I will just take it to the dealer for the transmission fluid to ensure they use the proper WS fluid there, and have them do the power steering fluid too. Anything else the dealer should address?

A friend decided to go pressing buttons and pressed screen off. Now for whatever reason the screen will turn off as I approach lower speeds or come to a stop. If I have the map off it will turn off while driving for a bit too. Soon as I press a button it comes back on. Not a big deal but frustrates the s*** out of me if I try to change radio stations etc. Any suggestions?

Also, I can’t seem to get the front camera to turn on. Need to track that down and figure that all out. I can get the mirror camera on but not without the parking sensor blaring so going to be looking into that too.
 
Last edited:
I think your friend hit the display off button.
Is it better to drain, drop the pain and clean the screen ( which should still be very clean ) or flushing it ?
 
I wouldn't trust my local dealer to do anything. If you do, lock your glovebox and take away the physical keys so they don't break your recirculate door flap hinges.

I use Mobil1 in the engine. Valvoline in the diffs. Get the Toyota specific fluid for the transfer case. I have yet to swap out my transmission fluid.

I'm especially concerned about dealers that power flush transmissions, and service writers who don't know their elbow from their @$$!()&.

Also, when you get your vehicle back, check for broken skid fasteners, missing skids and access doors. Be prepared for overtorqued drain plugs on your next service interval.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom