LX470 New owner, intro and build thread

[kuWuPt]

Really liked the idea of some raptor style lights on the grill. Saw the aftermarket grill options for the LX but I wanted a more subtle OEM+ look. So got some lights to mod up and see where it goes.

The lights I got had a smoked finish because I wanted it to blend in when not in use. They were made for a Tacoma grill I believe. When I got it, I saw that it had some extensions so trimmed that. And I also used silicone to seal all the edges etc just to ensure that it was watertight.





This is how I liked the placement of the final product to be.


So guess snow ball time, the grill looked rough, it is 23 years old so it was time for a refresh anyway. sanded the whole grill down except for the chrome and used epoxy to glue all the lights down.



Sealed the whole grill before paint and then on went paint and clear. Tried to match the paint as close as possible but went with a slightly lighter shade, very OEM +.






All the wiring was heat shrunk and used braided cable sleeves to keep the wiring clean and protected.





Routed all the wiring between the grills so you don't see any of it from the outside.

Happy with how this turned out.

 

[kuWuPt]

This has been long overdue. When I acquired the LX470 it came with the delaminating clear coat issue and a paint job was always in the cards as part of the 'restoration'. My buddy's body shop was shutting down for a month for a much needed vacation and they allowed me to use the shop and was going to help get this complete. Thanks Jeremy!!

I've gone through this a couple of times but I wanted to try to do a lot of the work myself this time and boy did I bite off more than I could chew. This has been a long process and it took me almost 3 weeks of working on it everyday after work like a second job. Body work was clearly not my forte and I still need to do things multiple times to get it right.

The plan here was to paint everything from the molding up for a couple of reasons. I still am not sure if I am going to do a front and rear bumper change. Also, if I do keep the bumpers then it's not that hard to just paint the bumpers and caps. I also like the two tone currently, but I also like it when it is all one color. Since I am undecided it'll be easier for me to just address the moldings up for now and decide later as things progress.

Started off with a full wash and degrease of every nook and cranny to try to get rid of any contaminants including the under carriage. Removed all the parts that can come off the car like roof rack, headlights, tail lights, moldings, side mirrors door handles etc. Then got to sanding to get rid of all the old paint off down to the factory primer/sealer. Everywhere there was rock chips and wherever it required body work took it down to metal to get rid of any surface rust etc. All the bare metal surfaces got a coat of Ospho metal treatment to prevent rust.




After multiple tries to get the body work right I wasn't a 100% satisfied. I asked another friend who does body work to just look over my work and he did!! He fixed up whatever needed to get fixed up and after multiple spot priming, surface preps and sanding, got the car and all the parts in primer.






Gave the car a couple of days to cure and then with guide coat applied got back to blocking the car with 400 grit sandpaper to make sure everything was levelled out. With everything leveled out, it was time for a final wash, degrease and prep for paint. With the car in the booth the plan was to break up the painting into different sessions. Before paint, the parts were wiped down with prep solution and a tack rag to catch any loose dust particles. After prep, the parts were sealed and multiple coats of base and then multiple coats of clear was applied. First session was to tackle the roof and tailgate.

Second session was the hood and all the parts that came off the car.






Third session was to cover the left and right side.







With everything painted, gave it a couple of days to cure before reassembly. Every single part that went back on the car was thoroughly cleaned and all the plastics got some conditioner. The tail lights, fog lights and side markers even got a polish before going back on.





Having gone through this with a more hands on approach I completely see how a good paint job costs thousands of dollars. Understanding the steps to achieve not just the initial outcome but also longevity will lead you to prep everything accordingly. Prep and using the right materials at the right steps will assure longevity and a clean job. I think I have over a 100 hours in just getting the car ready for paint and that's not including the hours my friends helped me.

I don't think this car has ever been this clean since it left the production plant. With all new moldings etc. I couldn't be happier with the outcome. Now to go ahead and mount all the accumulated parts on the car!

 

[kuWuPt]

After a recent storm I noticed that there was water on the inside of my windshield. On inspection I found that the moldings on the side was held on by screws, which is not supposed to be the case. I also sprayed some soap to the outside perimeter of the windshield and used a a blower from the inside to see that there were a lot of spots where the soap was bubbling up. Which means air is moving between the inside and outside of the windshield. I had also cleaned out all my drains to make sure that wasn't causing any issues. Well called my glass guy and they were able to squeeze me in. I was initially thinking they could just run a sealer on the inside of the windshield to help seal it but they advised me against that. They explained that air/water might be getting in because there was a break or delamination of some sort with the sealant and to properly diagnose the issue the windshield had to come out. Made sense to get to the root cause of the problem and I'm glad I did.


With the windshield out they pointed out where there was surface rust that was forming which was causing the glue to delaminate . Also the glue the previous installer used apparently wasn't the right one because it was hard and brittle.





All the surface rust was removed and a rust inhibitor was used to help prevent it from happening again.






I also asked them to use some rust inhibitor around the holes where the molding goes that the previous installer had used screws for. with everything dry, fresh windshield glue the windshield went back on.



I chose to give it a couple of days to make sure everything was cured before the moldings went back on. This also gave me the chance to do the soap & air test again to verify that there were no leaks. No leaks and the cabin felt quieter!! Onto the moldings.

I wasn't sure if the holes for the moldings were bigger since they used screws earlier so I went ahead and ordered an assortment of black aluminum rivets along with the OEM rivets and new moldings. The OEM rivets unfortunately did not fit, the OEM rivets had a rubber collar so when the rivets are compressed the rubber makes contact with the metal to prevent paint wear due to vibration and hence rust formation. To help replicate this functionality I used some RTV in the holes prior to using the aluminum rivets.






With the outer moldings secured I'm going to wait till I finish doing some wiring to put the inner moldings into the channels to complete the job.

It was a hassle to deal with this but I'm glad this happened sooner than later. The rust issue would've been significantly worse and might have been a bigger hassle to get fixed correctly. For now I believe everything was done right and happy with the outcome.

 

[kuWuPt]

When I got the LX I immediately changed out all the halogen bulbs with HID kits because visibility at night was horrendous. Having HID kits in the low, high and fog lights helped a little but visibility was still not good. After the paint job I thought it was best to tackle this issue. I chose to do a retro fit, nothing out of the box but one that has been done by a lot of other enthusiasts and hence this is not going to be a detailed write up because it is well documented.

I chose to get some pre-made brackets from LBBuiltwerks. The projectors I used were also the ones suggested by lbbuiltwerks which was the Bi-Xenon: Morimoto Mini H1 8.0 Stage III Kit. Some costs can be cut here, you can just get the brackets and the bi-xenon morimoto mini h1 projectors and use a cheaper H1 HID kit but I just chose to do it once and hopefully will last a long time. So the brackets and the morimoto kit was ordered.



Everything went pretty seamlessly, well written instructions by lbbuiltwerks and quality products just makes for a much easier job. Baked the headlights, installed everything as per direction, the wiring is the only part I changed up a little. I had some spare HID bulb connectors which I de-pinned and fed through the factory cap to make a jumper harness between the ignitor on the outside of the headlight and the bulb which was inside the headlight.





I also chose to tie in the hi beam signal for the low beam to a jumper harness for the high beam.

Everything was sealed properly and aligned on the truck before final assembly.






Fresh Morimoto rubber sealing glue was used to re-seal the headlights as well.




When I say that the difference is night and day I mean it! The cut off lines are beautiful and the light projection is wonderfully bright and far. I cannot recommend this mod enough! Very satisfying.

 

[kuWuPt]

When prospeed came out with the rack for the 100 series I loved the profile of it. Sleek, followed the contours of the truck and thought it looked the best so had bought it. Well over a year later it's time to install it. Installation is not complicated, pretty straight forward, it just took me over a year because I was waiting on painting my truck and wanted to put it on after the fact.

I added a silicone pad to the bottom of the mounts on the off chance the mount touches the body during installation. Yup, I agree, very unnecessary.



I modified the gutter rail covers and trimmed the factory covers for the cut outs for the new bolt locations. Since I was doing that figured it could use a coat of rubberized paint to freshen it up.





Everything else for installation is pretty self explanatory, only note here would be that there are 12 spacers that come with the rack. 4 taller ones and 8 shorter ones, the 4 taller spacers are to be used for the front mounting points. I just used some silicone sealant to fill in the mounting holes and then bolt the rack down to prevent any leaks.




I chose the led bar cut out option for the front wind deflector and did have it mounted but the wiring is not long enough to route into the engine bay so need to modify that so that there isn't a plug in the middle of my windshield molding. Would an extra 2 feet of wire too much to ask here?

Love the roof rack though!

For the led bar, needed to extend the wiring so ordered some 12AWG outdoor wiring and got to work. Extended the wiring and made sure everything had heat shrink, electric tape and even the sheathing under more heat shrink.






Trimmed down the cowl enough to clearance the wiring to run down the channel in the windshield trim.



Done with no visible wiring. Now to figure out a switch panel setup to power them up!

 

[kuWuPt]

Well my stockpile of parts is less, got a lot of parts knocked off the list. Let's start with the list of parts:

Rear Arms:
Rear - Upper Right (Air box side) (48710-60070)
Rear - Upper Left (48710-60080)

Lower Control Arm:
Used OEM Lower Control Arm - to press in bushings
Lower Control arm bushings - Front Lower Rear- SuperPro (SPF3881K) (in chassis)
Lower Control arm bushings - Front Lower Front- SuperPro (SPF2143K)
Lower Control arm bushings - 555 ball joint (SB3812) x 2

Upper Control Arm:
Used OEM Upper Control Arm for new bushings.
Upper Control arm bushings - OEM (48632-60010) x 4
Upper Control arm bushings - 555 ball joint (SB3841) x 2

CV Axle:
CV axle joint grease (any grease with molly)
Axle Snap Ring, RH/LH 2.8mm - 9052031005
Axle Snap Ring, RH/LH 2.6mm - 9052031006
Axle Snap Ring, RH/LH 2.4mm - 9052031007
Axle Snap Ring, RH/LH 2.2mm - 9052031008
Axle Snap Ring, RH/LH 2.2mm - 9052031009
Axle Snap Ring, RH/LH 1.8mm - 9052031010
OEM Axle nut lock washer (90215-42025) x 2
OEM Axle shaft flange (43421-60060) x 2
OEM Axle shaft flange gasket (43422-60070) x 2
OEM Axle shaft flange cones (42323-60030) x 12
OEM - Passenger Differential axle seal - (90311-47027) x1
OEM - Driver Differential axle seal - (90311-47013) x 1
CV Axle (Front - Left, Right) (43430-60040) x 2

Steering Rack
Steering Rack OEM 44250-60050
Bolt, Washer Based (rack mounting, single-use part) (90105-14121) x 2
Nut, Hexagon (TRE jam nuts) (90170-20003) x 2
Nut, Flange (rack mounting, single-use part) (90178-14003) x 2
Spacer (rack mounting, single-use part) (90560-15018) x 2
Steering Arm Bolt (rack mounting, single-use part) (90101-14021) x 2
Pressure Hose Gasket (single-use part) (44327-30030) x 1
Whiteline W13210 Front Steering Rack and Pinion Mount Bushing Kit
Toyota - Tie rod - Front Left Outer - (45047-69100) (555-SE3811L)
Toyota - Tie rod - Front Right Outer - (45046-69195) (555-SE3811R)
Tie rods - Front Inner - (45503-69015) (555-SR3810) x 2 came with new rack
Transmission pressure line assembly (44410-60510)
Steering Intermediate shaft, NO.2 (45203-60090)

AHC:
OEM ACCUMULATOR GLOBE - REAR - 49151-60010 x 2
OEM ACCUMULATOR GLOBE - REAR - 49141-60010 x 2
OEM Bleeder plug (49189-60010) x 6
OEM Bleeder plug cap (49177-60010) x 6
Suspension Fluid - Lexus (08886-01805) X 2

Shock Absorber:
Front - OEM SUSPENSION SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNT BUSHING (90903-89016) x 2
Front - SUSPENSION SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNT BUSHING (90948-01075) x 2
Front - CUSHION, FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER, NO. 2 (90948-01076) x 2
Front Suspension Hydraulic line O'RING (90562-12003) x 2 (bottom O-ring)
Front Suspension Hydraulic line O'RING (90301-11022) x 2 (top O-ring)
Rear - Upper Shock Cushion (90948-01077) x 2
Rear - Lower Shock Cushion (90948-01078) x 2
Rear - Bottom Shock Bushing (90385-19010) x 2
Rear Suspension Hydraulic line O'RING (90562-12003) x 2 (bottom O-ring)
Rear Suspension Hydraulic line O'RING (90301-11022) x 2 (top O-ring)

All loaded up.




Got a set of used OEM upper control arms to save on time by pressing out the bushings and ball joints. Also gave me enough time to prep and paint it after new bushings and ball joints were installed.



This CUDA parts washer is amazing and am so grateful to be able to use it. The shop uses this on a daily basis to clean parts before reinstallation. Another reason I use Import Motor Werks in Cary, NC. Also the main reason being Matt, he is a very skilled master tech that I trust. Thanks Matt & Import Motor Werks who by the way did all the work while I tried to stay out of the way and try to work on small stuff around him while the truck was on the lift.



After a quick wash in the CUDA prepped and refinished the lower control arms as well.




Didn't get to take a lot of pictures during the actual work, game plan was to try to knock as much of this out in a day so the car is movable and not stuck on the lift.

Disassembled everything, during which I found out that the only thing keeping my power steering fluid in the rack were the boots. Removal of the inner tie rods required the removal of the steering rack boots which resulted in a healthy puking of power steering fluid out of both ends of the rack. I felt much better about replacing the rack and lines at this point, cause boy those parts weren't cheap.



New rack, lines, inner and outer tie rods installed with all new hardware.






While I was working on replacing AHC globes and rear upper control arms Matt finished up the steering rack, diff seals, CV Axles, upper and lower shock bushings including the AHC line O-rings as well as the upper and lower control arms including the in-frame bushings. Look at how nice all these new parts look! I know I know, it's a truck but the process of bringing this truck back to OEM spec is something that really excites me.





New AHC globes, bled and even replaced the bleed plugs and caps.





The rear shock bushings were a pain in the ass to say the least! The location is a pain to get to to undo the bolts, swapping out the O-rings once the line was off was not as bad though. If I was to do it again I would definitely use the location guide to cut out a hole in the floor board in the trunk to access the top of the shock. Matt got it done though, new bushings and O-rings complete!!





All this work ended up being over a course of two days. Day 1 was about 8 hours of continuous work not even stopping for lunch but got the whole front end and AHC globes replaced and bled. Day 2 was only about 3 hours which consisted of the rear end, bleeding the AHC again, verified the steering wheel and rack is centered, got an alignment and was on my merry way! The difference!! WOW!! Huge huge difference and this is before I baselined the pressures. That's for another day though. For now I'm just glad that all this work is done. A huge thanks to Matt and Import Motor Werks for taking this on!


-AJ Abraham

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[ko2]

Amazing update! Nothing better than throwing a bunch of new fresh parts in where needed!

 

[Exiled]

I cannot say how much I enjoyed your update, and how fantastic your LX is looking after all the hard work. Incredible work, well though-out upgrades. Congratulations, she looks beautiful!

 

[KingGlizzard]

Hey! you are right down the road from me. I'm in Cary, NC. As a new LX470 owner, loving this thread.

 

[kuWuPt]

Amazing update! Nothing better than throwing a bunch of new fresh parts in where needed!

Thank you, you could say this is ending up to be more of a passion build.

I cannot say how much I enjoyed your update, and how fantastic your LX is looking after all the hard work. Incredible work, well though-out upgrades. Congratulations, she looks beautiful!

Thank you.

Hey! you are right down the road from me. I'm in Cary, NC. As a new LX470 owner, loving this thread.

Nice!! Enjoy it, feel free to message if you have questions.

 

[reduc]

This is a really excellent thread. Thanks for posting. Curious, did you leave the rest of the exhaust stock, and if so, is there a significant difference in sound with just the headers?

 

[kuWuPt]

This is a really excellent thread. Thanks for posting. Curious, did you leave the rest of the exhaust stock, and if so, is there a significant difference in sound with just the headers?

Thank you, the rest of the exhaust is stock. There isn't a big noticeable difference in the sound with just the headers but when I got the truck it did have a cracked manifold so I don't have a good baseline for comparison.

 

[reduc]

Fair enough. I just ordered a set, and plan to replace most of everything else you've replaced on my '01. One more question: why did you choose factory manifold gaskets?

 

[kuWuPt]

Fair enough. I just ordered a set, and plan to replace most of everything else you've replaced on my '01. One more question: why did you choose factory manifold gaskets?

I believe that was the consensus from people who had installed it in the past. Also one of the gaskets that I got was damaged in shipping that reinforced it really so didn't bother contacting them to get a replacement.

 

[kuWuPt]

As preventative maintenance I had stockpiled a bunch of preventative and while you are in there parts to refresh the motor and had an opening to get this done.
Parts list I had organized according to work groups:

Starter:
OEM Starter - 28100-50100-84
Intake manifold gasket - Intake to head OEM (17171-50020) (2x)
Water By-pass:
Water bypass gaskets (16341-50020) (4x)
Aisin FIPG AB1207B1
Fuel injector seals:
Seals 23291-41010 (8x)
O-rings 90301-07024 (8x)
Grommets 90480-13005 (8x)
Fuel Pressure Regulator 23280-50050
OEM Fuel Filter (23303-64010)

Connectors:
Temp sensor connector 90980-11428
2-pin connector (vacuum) 90980-11156
Knock sensor connector 90980-11166 (2x)
Injector connector 90980-11153 (8x)
Coil connector 90980-11885 (8x)
MAF connector 90980-11317
Throttle connector 90980-11150
Starter connector 90980-11400

Heater Tees & Hoses by firewall:
OEM Heater Water T Pipe (87248-60460 x 2) 12.53 x 2
OEM Heater hose (170mm)(99556-20200)
OEM Heater hose (87245-6A201)
OEM Heater hose (87245-6A190)
OEM Heater hose (87245-6A180)
OEM Heater hose (87245-6A220)
OEM Heater hose (87245-6A210)

Motor Maintenance:
Toyota (90916-02586) Serpentine Belt
Toyota (16603-0W010) Upper tension pulley
Toyota (90916-02586) Lower pulley
Toyota (13540-50030) Timing Belt Tensioner
Toyota (13505-0F010) Timing Belt Idler
Toyota (13503-0F010) Timing Belt Idler
Toyota (13568-09070) Timing Belt
Toyota (16100-59275-83) Water Pump w/Housing
Toyota thermostat (90916-03100)
Toyota thermostat gasket (16346-50010)
Toyota O'ring thermostat housing (96761-35035)
OEM Front Main Seal (90311-43006)
OEM Camshaft Seal (90311-38065) (x2)
Toyota Long Life Antifreeze Coolant (00272-1LLAC-01) x 2 or (00272-SLLC2) x 4
OEM Valve cover bolt (90080-10330) x 18
Toyota Valve Cover gaskets - Left - (11214-50011)
Toyota Valve Cover gasket - Right - (11213-50031)
Toyota Spark Plug Gasket (11193-70010) x 8
Toyota Throttle Body Gasket ( 22271-50041)
NGK Spark Plugs 4589 IFR6T-11 x 8
K&N Air Filter 33-2146
OEM Fan Clutch (16210-50051)
OEM- FAN BRACKET SUB-ASSY (16307-50012)
OEM Radiator (16400-50360)
OEM Radiator Cap (16401-67150)
OEM Lower radiator hose (16572-50150)
OEM Upper Radiator Hose (16571-50150)
Driver & Passenger Front O2 sensor (Bank 1 & 2 - Sensor 1) - Denso 2344169 (89465-50060)

PCV:
Toyota PCV Valve (12204-50020)
Toyota PCV Valve Grommet (90480-18001)
OEM ventilation hose (1x): 12261-50050
OEM ventilation hose no. 2 (1x): 12262-50030
Vacuum line - 4ft of OEM vacuum line (90999-92006)

Not much to talk about really just a whole bunch of parts. Matt @ Import Motor Werks did all the disassembly and assembly and I just stayed out of the way mostly and did all the cleaning and prep tasks. This was very time consuming and if I was to plan this differently I would do the starter replacement separately.




Laying out all the parts for visibility.







With all the coolant drained Matt evacuated the R134 refrigerant to get the AC lines out of the way and then proceeded to get the clutch fan, radiator, harness etc out of the way to tackle removal components up top, intake manifold, valve cover, timing belt covers etc.





Again the CUDA was used to get everything clean, before it was put in the parts washer I sprayed it down with a degreaser and agitated everything with a brass brush just to help things along and boy did the valve covers clean up nicely!!






Starter, coolant by-bass gaskets and all electrical connectors replaced



Cam seals, crank seals, water pump, timing belt, tensioners and pulleys replaced.



Addressed the intake manifold, cleaned up the mating surfaces for new gaskets.



Removed the injectors to get cleaned as well and replaced with all new O-rings.



New fuel pressure regulator and lines.



Everything coming back together.



Of course can't leave out the tee's and all new lines to go with it.




After the fan clutch and radiator was replaced and with everything buttoned back up the truck was left overnight so the FIPG can cure and the next day coolant was filled and bled. The O2 sensors were replaced as well.

Was everything necessary? I had a check engine light on for a lean code due to the O2 sensors. With everything apart Matt did point out the timing belt tensioner was failing since it was leaking hydraulic fluid so just that in itself made it worth it. No other leaks from the crank and cam seals. There was a slight leak from the valve cover gasket but everything else seemed good. So was everything necessary, no but the "while you are in there" mentality drove me to plan for everything including connectors which could break due to age. For now I have peace of mind that this should be good for awhile! So that makes it worth it for me.

Huge thanks to Matt again for doing this!

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[kuWuPt]

Been meaning to install a switchpro and finally got everything needed to do it.

Parts list:
Auxbeam Switcpro
Auxbeam Engine Bay Mounting Brackets
Auxbeam Switch Panel Mount
4 gauge wire
Braided sheathing & heat shrink (various sizes)
Test fitted and wired everything off vehicle.






Installed everything, and ran wiring through the rubber grommet on the driver side firewall.





Ran the switchpro controller wiring through the the side pillar and roof liner into where the the overhead console is. The switch panel mount fit excellent and love the positioning of it. I didn't have to extend the wiring for the controller either.





Need to clean up around the battery a bit and find a source for new fuse box stickers.







Now to start adding accessories.

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[kuWuPt]

While wiring up the switchpro, I realized that I had ordered sunroof moldings earlier because the molding was pretty worn and nasty.

So onto that, undid the plastic covers inside and the nuts holding the sunroof molding tilted the sunroof up. Found out that to remove the sunroof I had to also dismantle part of the roof rack to get some of the tracks out of the way so did that and out came the glass. Simple.




Removed the old molding and the gasket goo that left behind I got everywhere. Tried a couple of cleaners but the best way I figured out was to use a plastic blade and scrape off everything first and then use acetone on a rag. Keep flipping the rag and dispose of it once it has the goo on it because otherwise it'll just spread as thin layers wherever you wipe it.


To put the molding on I used a thin coat of 3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive and tried pressing it in. I didn't think using my hands was applying even pressure so I used a roller I had gotten for putting dynamat on. Don't use a knurled roller, only use a smooth one. It applies even pressure and it worked out really well I feel.





Put the sunroof back, cleaned up the plastic covers, sprayed some protectant on them and assembled everything back. Tighten down the nuts after you put it back in the closed position and adjust where needed.






Not a hard job but can get messy.




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