LX470 Bouncing and Jarring Ride (FIXED!) (2 Viewers)

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Incredibly easy. Easier than changing a regular suspension setup. No, third party shops and even Lexus dealers aren't knowledge able. Literally set your LX to low, get the car supported, then use a chain wrench to take off the globe. Do this 4 corners, put new fluid in, and bleed. If you can bleed brakes, you can change AHC globes
Thanks, is there a detailed thread/video about this repair? Don’t want to end up making the situation worse. I’ve searched and only find bits of info on this.
 
Thanks, is there a detailed thread/video about this repair? Don’t want to end up making the situation worse. I’ve searched and only find bits of info on this.
It really is that easy: put ahc to Lo, jack up car, put big jack stands under the frame so that the wheels/suspension have no load, undo the globes with a narrow 36 mm spanner (or other implement, even chisel and hammer would work).
You can jack one end at the time, but not one side at the time, as the 2 fronts are interconnected, as are the 2 rears.
Put on the new globes, fill up the fluid reservoir a bit more, and bleed well, all corners.
 
Just an update on my situation. The car went to the local Florida Lexus dealer to be diagnosed for this issue. I wanted to see what they said or recommended to fix the ride issue, not to do the repairs. They came back with a quote of over $8K to replace the pump motor and dampeners based on “age”. The car is and 01’ w 168K on it. The code they came back with is code C17622.

A quick search I found this. “Air Suspension Rear Height Sensor High (SE) Signal Circuit Short To Battery”

Could this be as simple as a bad rear height control sensor? Any AHC experts please advise!
 
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Just an update on my situation. The car when to the local Florida Lexus dealer to be diagnosed for this issue. I wanted to see what they said or recommended to fix the ride issue, not to do the repairs. They came back with a quote of over $8K to replace the pump motor and dampeners based on “age”. The car is and 01’ w 168K on it. The code they came back with is code C17622.

A quick search I found this. “Air Suspension Rear Height Sensor High (SE) Signal Circuit Short To Battery”

Could this be as simple as a bad rear height control sensor? Any AHC experts please advise!

It isn't an air suspension system.

Search the forum, there are numerous threads about AHC ;)

Here is a good one >> The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place

New video @suprarx7nut on how to fine tune your AHC >> AHC Basics for dummies Video re CrossLeveling, Height Sensor adjustment, TB tweaking
 
Just an update on my situation. The car went to the local Florida Lexus dealer to be diagnosed for this issue. I wanted to see what they said or recommended to fix the ride issue, not to do the repairs. They came back with a quote of over $8K to replace the pump motor and dampeners based on “age”. The car is and 01’ w 168K on it. The code they came back with is code C17622.

A quick search I found this. “Air Suspension Rear Height Sensor High (SE) Signal Circuit Short To Battery”

Could this be as simple as a bad rear height control sensor? Any AHC experts please advise!
Lol. They sound clueless. Ignore that quote. Save it and then bring it back to them with hand written edits with the actual work needed... Probably for less than $1,500.
 
Note to self: Avoid Lexus dealers in Naples area
 
Change your accumulators. Mine rode the same as yours just out of the blue. Read Prado's instructions on the swap. Went to NAPA and bought a forged fan clutch wrench, 36mm. Done in about two hours. Now it rides like new.
 
Thanks for all your suggestions. I understand it is not an air system. Is it worth trying or cleaning the rear height sensor? Or just replacing all four globes and going from there?
 
Try cleaning that sensor first. Let's solve the issue first before trying further improvements to the system.

Edit: sorry I didn't read the whole thread before my initial response and just caught the 6 graduations result on "the test". Fix your sensor, then get some new globes as others have suggested. While you're at it, get a YotaMD key too.
 
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I understand it is not an air system. Is it worth trying or cleaning the rear height sensor? Or just replacing all four globes and going from there?

The code they gave has too many digits, I think. If you can verify the code, then sure, replace the height sensor. If the car is successfully moving from H to L and only changing 6 marks, then the globes are gone either way, IMO. Globes are only supposed to last so long anyways - the nitrogen gas leaks out eventually. If you know they haven't been changed in the last 5-10 years, that's a real safe bet you'll benefit from refreshing them.
 
The code they gave has too many digits, I think. If you can verify the code, then sure, replace the height sensor. If the car is successfully moving from H to L and only changing 6 marks, then the globes are gone either way, IMO. Globes are only supposed to last so long anyways - the nitrogen gas leaks out eventually. If you know they haven't been changed in the last 5-10 years, that's a real safe bet you'll benefit from refreshing them.
Gotcha, appreciate it. I think the second 2 in the code is wrong, so it’s C1762. I’m pretty certain most everything is original in regards to the system. The car still moves up and down but at a fast and abrupt fashion. I have another 99’ LX with 158k that seems to be doing alright here in PA.

Problem I’m facing is that the car is kind of stuck in south FL at our other home, so it’s hard to do anything diy without many tools. Is there anything to look out for with replacing the globes? And tips or tricks? It seems pretty straight forward. The plan is it drive it back to PA but with the AHC working nicely again.
 
Try cleaning that sensor first. Let's solve the issue first before trying further improvements to the system.

Edit: sorry I didn't read the whole thread before my initial response and just caught the 6 graduations result on "the test". Fix your sensor, then get some new globes as others have suggested. While you're at it, get a YotaMD key too.
Thanks will try that. Sorry, key? You lost me...
 
The ride is bad, really bad over any dip or sudden movement in the pavement. It will dodge, duck, dip, dive and dodge, all over the place
I would say about 6 or so graduations from H-L.
My vote is:
1. Get techstream to see pressures, and get in spec.
2. Fix the code-related issue, whatever it is. If sensor related, Techstream should help.
3. At 6 graduations, your globes/accumuators need changing. You'll need: 2x 49141-60010 (fronts), 2x 49151-60010 (rears), AHC fluid (Min 3 qt), A 36mm fan crutch wrench, and a 10mm box or line wrench
4. Confirm nothing else is going on. Based on your symptoms, I'd check ball joints, tie rod ends and front diff bushings. Any/all of these can contribute to what you describe. You may find one of those needs changing too.

Or find a shop worth actually taking it to. If you plan on driving from FL to PA anyways, there are lots of places en route to pick from should you so desire.
 
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I would like to thank you all for your knowledge and expertise. Undertaking something like this is not something I was very comfortable with, but you all helped pushed me to get it done.

I purchased 4 new globes for $1,100 and 4L of AHC fluid for $100. It took approximately 4 hours, not rushing anything to make sure I was doing everything as described. Turns out 1 globe(FL) was completely compromised, the bladder inside was toast. The rest looked decent but were probably on the way out as well. The fluid was also bad, dark brown and came out like foamy beer.

Now it rides so nice, I couldn’t be happier with the result. Thank you to everyone, this forum is so good.

I also found another thread with a post from PADDO that helped build my confidence. This is the method I chose:

Method 1. Last globe changeout I did I dropped it to L, engine OFF, bleed all 5 bleeders down to the point where fluid stops flowing (total about 1 liter) so the truck is sitting on the bump stops and then sucked out the reservoir and dumped in a full can of fresh fluid as per my quick and easy 1 can method. So you've got truck on bumps, no pressure behind any globes and a full reservoir. Unscrew old and replace the new globes, you can try and put a bit of fresh fluid in the throats of each globe but it just spills out really, but do wet the O ring with fluid. There is some spec for globe tightness but I just tighten them up and give them a bit of a nudge. After all the fan clutch wrench is 13 or 14 in long so you've got plenty of leverage there. I guess I tighten them to maybe 40 ft lbs? So when you've done the four globes start her up and it will recharge everything and then raise her to N. The fluid level in the reservoir should be a bit above max. Turn her OFF and give each corner a quick bleed, just an ounce or three till there are no bubbles. Start her up again and confirm the fluid level is good, if the level is a bit over max is ok too and you're done.
 
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I would like to thank you all for your knowledge and expertise. Undertaking something like this is not something I was very comfortable with, but you all helped pushed me to get it done.

I purchased 4 new globes for $1,100 and 4L of AHC fluid for $100. It took approximately 4 hours, not rushing anything to make sure I was doing everything as described. Turns out 1 globe(FL) was completely compromised, the bladder inside was toast. The rest looked decent but were probably on the way out as well. The fluid was also bad, dark brown and came out like foamy beer.

Now it rides so nice, I couldn’t be happier with the result. Thank you to everyone, this forum is so good.

I also found another thread with a post from PADDO that helped build my confidence. This is the method I chose:

Method 1. Last globe changeout I did I dropped it to L, engine OFF, bleed all 5 bleeders down to the point where fluid stops flowing (total about 1 liter) so the truck is sitting on the bump stops and then sucked out the reservoir and dumped in a full can of fresh fluid as per my quick and easy 1 can method. So you've got truck on bumps, no pressure behind any globes and a full reservoir. Unscrew old and replace the new globes, you can try and put a bit of fresh fluid in the throats of each globe but it just spills out really, but do wet the O ring with fluid. There is some spec for globe tightness but I just tighten them up and give them a bit of a nudge. After all the fan clutch wrench is 13 or 14 in long so you've got plenty of leverage there. I guess I tighten them to maybe 40 ft lbs? So when you've done the four globes start her up and it will recharge everything and then raise her to N. The fluid level in the reservoir should be a bit above max. Turn her OFF and give each corner a quick bleed, just an ounce or three till there are no bubbles. Start her up again and confirm the fluid level is good, if the level is a bit over max is ok too and you're done.
Great job, how many graduation do you get now with the new globes?
 
Congrats. So much more gratifying to DIY rather than overpay the stealership and save the money eh?
 

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