- Thread starter
- #21
ok. Where is that sucker located?
LX450 cutting out with no codes?!?!
- Thread starter wildman326
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Left inner fender.
See the last picture here for location:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...es-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-truck.html
see Ricks instructions in post #9 to clean its contacts.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/32349-starting-turnover-question-problem.html
See the last picture here for location:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...es-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-truck.html
see Ricks instructions in post #9 to clean its contacts.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/32349-starting-turnover-question-problem.html
- Thread starter
- #23
OK. I removed the relay. Disassembled it. Cleaned the contacts. Reassembled it. And put it back in the truck.
Same result.
I'm still considering any more suggestions. Kinda have to until I fix the problem.
Same result.
I'm still considering any more suggestions. Kinda have to until I fix the problem.
Did you get the chance to read this thread? Read post #34 and #35, looks like the OP bought a new relay and solved the cut out problem. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/228533-still-cutting-out-2.html
Has anyone suggested the distributer as the problem? maybe someone could throw you a loaner to check it out, as it might be a bit expensive to 'just try it'
I have had a very similar issue on an old Land Rover I had. The symptoms showed up as a flat spot leading me to think there was a blocked carburetor jet. Consequently I dismantled and cleaned the carburetor several times with no improvement.
It turned out to be the one of the rivets that held the terminals (12V not high tension) onto the coil was loose.
That probably doesn't help you much, but might give you an idea of some of the unlikely places to look.
It's a pity the tech didn't mention whether the misfire codes were random or cylinder specific as that might have narrowed it down a bit.
It turned out to be the one of the rivets that held the terminals (12V not high tension) onto the coil was loose.
That probably doesn't help you much, but might give you an idea of some of the unlikely places to look.
It's a pity the tech didn't mention whether the misfire codes were random or cylinder specific as that might have narrowed it down a bit.
- Thread starter
- #28
NO. It is not fixed. Yet.
I figure I'm going to have to throw $500 - $2000 at this to make it go away and until recently not had the cash. I should be rolling in dough in a week or two and will address the issue with sincere resolve.
I figure I'm going to have to throw $500 - $2000 at this to make it go away and until recently not had the cash. I should be rolling in dough in a week or two and will address the issue with sincere resolve.
Fly Robbie out (Powderpig) 4 less and u'll get a lot more bang 4 the buck!
I had an issue similar to this and it pointed to the fuel pump relay; however, the problem was a little farther down the fuel system line.
After an exhausting search,the tech traced the problem to the fuel pump. he opens the tank to remove the pump and found the wiring harness for the fuel pump rubbing against one of the fuel tank baffles. At just the right time, this action would short the pump and it would cease to function OR would function intermittently.
You have to pull your back seats to access it but it's not as daunting as it sounds. I know it's a long shot but perhaps something similar is occurring in your fuel circuit.
Before spending that kind of money on it, I'd simply RE-replace the cap, rotor, wires and sparkplugs. 90% of the possibilities are in these 4 items and the chance one of the new ones you installed was defective is low but these are the items that would do what you describe. So, spend the $200 for this and keep them for the next tuneup or as spares.
Bet a cup of coffee this will do it. Personally, my money is on one of these items being defective and the quickest way to eliminate it is simply replace them all with new again.
DougM
Bet a cup of coffee this will do it. Personally, my money is on one of these items being defective and the quickest way to eliminate it is simply replace them all with new again.
DougM
Agreed my stalled out at 55mph then just would not restart. New OEM rotor and back on the road again.
I’m having similar issues. Did this get resolved?