LX to LC anything to watch out for

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R

RatherBeRacing

Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Threads
7
Messages
96
Location
New Jersey
LX served me well over 6 years and 75k miles and I really liked it for its space and comfort. Dealer quoted 13k to fix AHC which failed on most recent trip. This car is not in the condition to spend significant money on (it has bunch of rust) and I don't have time to DIY big projects on it.

Dealer has 2017 LC with 80k miles in stock for that I am considering. Obviously I will check for rust, but are there any major differences on LC vs LX? I expected it to be simpler (not AHC, not sure if has the same complex steering system) but anything to look out for?

Looks like it was a 3 year lease for 50k miles and then was sold as certified pre-owned.

I was think about getting the new seqouia but they are still impossible to find esp. in TRD Pro and I thought 12-year old LX was better quality.
 
I think most of the niceties in the 200 that were generally standard on the LX had trickled down to the LC by 2017. The radiator was still an issue in 2017. Not sure what else would be different. You didn’t say what year your LX was, but I doubt, other than AHC, that the 16+ 200 is much simpler.

if you’ve already given up on the LX, you should sell it around here, rather than taking a 13k hit. Im sure you could sell it at a 5-7k discount here with broken AHC. probably costs 1/3rd of that to fix even if something is bad wrong, barring the whole system isnt rusted out. And in that case, someone may be willing to swap in LC shocks and springs For a beater 200.
 
Yes. Fake wood. 😂


Just make sure that the KDSS valve is not rusted up. If it is then you’re just exchanging one headache for another. If it is not then you’re good to go. LC rides great.
 
If the '17 is a CPO and still has a warranty you might be able to get the radiator replaced under warranty if it shows any signs of cracking. Aside from having KDSS instead of AHC they should be extremely similar.
 
lx200inAR said:
I think most of the niceties in the 200 that were generally standard on the LX had trickled down to the LC by 2017. The radiator was still an issue in 2017. Not sure what else would be different. You didn’t say what year your LX was, but I doubt, other than AHC, that the 16+ 200 is much simpler.

if you’ve already given up on the LX, you should sell it around here, rather than taking a 13k hit. Im sure you could sell it at a 5-7k discount here with broken AHC. probably costs 1/3rd of that to fix even if something is bad wrong, barring the whole system isnt rusted out. And in that case, someone may be willing to swap in LC shocks and springs For a beater 200.
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Financial advisors suggest never negotiating a vehicle purchase simultaneously with a trade-in. You get screwed twice. Negotiate the purchase price and terms (get your own financing from outside the dealership), and once that is finalized ask them what they'll give you for the LX. If you care. CarMax will offer you more, and anyone here on Mud who cares to wrench will offer you the same or more than CarMax, plus you'll be helping out another Yota addict. Just my two cents, YMMV.
 
That dealer quote for AHC is INSANE. Globes can be had for $500 from eBay Japan (ask me how I know). How much is a pump? The shocks are cheap, and labor to replace them is typically $2k or under. I HIGHLY doubt you are looking at true system-wide catastrophic failure. Even if you were, that quote is laughably ridiculous. What specifically did they say needed to be replaced?

Run, don't walk, away from that dealer. He just wants you to trade the LX at the lowest possible value.
 
RatherBeRacing said:
Still waiting for write up. Yea I am definitely not paying 13k for sure. I found thread on disabling ahc. Now need to find some shocks and springs.
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I think that 2 people here once got a quote for $25-35k for AHC “fix”.

So, 13k is a bargain! :D
 
well got the estimate and what it tells me is dealer saying "we don't wanna deal with your s*** unless you pay us a bunch of money"
Estimate consists of new pump and 4 valve/accumulator assemblies for a total of 8800 in parts, which I can find for 6k myself.

Looks like I will be diagnosing this myself. Might start a separate thread.

I had C1763 error which has very simple procsdure...check for leaks and check pump operation. There was definitely a leak because the frame rail had some moist dirt and area under the pump was wet.

Btw none of this was in the write up - very dissapointed with half ass work by this dealer. Will have them replace the starter since car is there and I don't feel like fiddling with that on rusty car.
 
RatherBeRacing said:
well got the estimate and what it tells me is dealer saying "we don't wanna deal with your s*** unless you pay us a bunch of money"
Estimate consists of new pump and 4 valve/accumulator assemblies for a total of 8800 in parts, which I can find for 6k myself.

Looks like I will be diagnosing this myself. Might start a separate thread.

I had C1763 error which has very simple procsdure...check for leaks and check pump operation. There was definitely a leak because the frame rail had some moist dirt and area under the pump was wet.

Btw none of this was in the write up - very dissapointed with half ass work by this dealer. Will have them replace the starter since car is there and I don't feel like fiddling with that on rusty car.
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Pretty much 0 chance all of that is bad, and 50/50 chance none of it is bad. If it is the pump, you can get brand new assembly from UAE for less than 1k. There are codes for each of the valve actuators, so if they aren't triggered in techstream, then most likely they aren't bad. They can fail, but it's pretty rare.
 
You have a rusty car. We’ve seen failures of the Ahc pipe that is on top of the rear crossmember. And the big manifold that is over on the left side too on rusty vehicles.
Maybe one or two with another pipe rusted thru. But very few.

There are various pump fails from losing prime leading to failure, to contaminates in the tank or line, to bad OEM fluid. The bad OEM fluid is mostly gone at the supply chain, so now it is mostly contaminates and lost prime due to a pipe leak.

If your truck is real real rusty then line rust thru is a concern for sure, and you have to decide what your level of pain in this truck is, and either go to normal suspension or get a different truck or fix it.
 
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