Here is a rundown of parts and mods for my 40 build. Was a perfect 1977 bone stock fj40 I found in lake tahoe payed 5g good deal. When my father walked into my shop the day after I came home with it and the day after I took him for a nice stock 40 4 wheel sampling all,s I could here is OH MY GOD THAT WAS A NICE LAND CRUISER..... The build...lsx454 crate motor carbed hughes performance 4L80 hi perf man. valve body reverse paturn shift tranny Atlas II 3:8:1 Tom Woods double cardan drive lines 1350 all around Dynatrac pro60 f/r with detroits made 5'' wider than stock stayed s/u I want this cruiser to perform well at all types of sports I know it wont perform the best at anything but it will be really good at everything. Master craft 3G seats m/c harnesses Art Carr shifter Racepac instraments tlc custom allum. dash knobs. custom built by me extra 2'' deep dash so I could tuck my custom built by me roll cage out of the way of our feet looks better too! bilstein 7100 res. shocks 4 f 2 r cage mounts to frame hfs spings? well see! ruff stuff hardware through out 6 light force long range will mount on hindged cage bar warn 9000ci frame has many hours of work on it all welded and finished smooth looks kill. wind shield layed back a few. Ron Davis rad. custom built by me center consol. round eyes head lights Walker Evens pol. b/ls 17'' BFG km2s I am 45 have had a fj40 since I was 15 I want this one to have a sleek racey look you know SEEEXYY for real this 40 should be and look bad to the bone, I hope. I know I did not list all but I got to go watch the backs of my eye lids BY.
LSX454fj40 SPECS. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LSX454fj40
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he already did... https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/447087-custom-40-pics.html
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I don't get it.. You've got a $10k engine, $10k worth of axles, $2k in a gauge setup, but it's using a carb and SUA leafs?
Then, there's the cage.. I won't go into it unless you care.
Then, there's the cage.. I won't go into it unless you care.
- Thread starter
- #5
what about it
I am not building a purpose built ROC KRAWLER I stated that I want this 40 to do well at all types of wheeling and I love high HP. I will be able to beat the livin snot of this thing and not have to worry about a whole lot going wrong I have been around Land cruiser 40s most of my life I have studied many when this thing is complete it will have plenty enough suspention travel ,hp,axle strenth and instamintation to smoke most other 4x4s or whatever comes my way and I wll still have that killer classic cruiser look! not all cut to .... ! and yeah what about cage?
I am not building a purpose built ROC KRAWLER I stated that I want this 40 to do well at all types of wheeling and I love high HP. I will be able to beat the livin snot of this thing and not have to worry about a whole lot going wrong I have been around Land cruiser 40s most of my life I have studied many when this thing is complete it will have plenty enough suspention travel ,hp,axle strenth and instamintation to smoke most other 4x4s or whatever comes my way and I wll still have that killer classic cruiser look! not all cut to .... ! and yeah what about cage?
Only thing I'm going to say on the cage is that I'm guessing you're not a mechanical engineer, a lot of strength and efficiency is lost in the swoopiness.
As with the carb on the LSx, seems silly to build a killer LS motor which has tons of fuel injection options available affordably and throw a carb on it.
As with the carb on the LSx, seems silly to build a killer LS motor which has tons of fuel injection options available affordably and throw a carb on it.
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Neat ideas brewing there, but I'd have to side with the cage critique - in the event of a high-speed roll (which, considering your proposed driving style is likely) the rear trusses are likely to either collapse, or tear the rear crossmember off, and then the swept-back angle of the main cross-over bar, unsupported by the missing trusses will scissor out, and you may find yourself squished, or even smeared on the pavement.
I'd advise having somebody local with cage-building experience do a "revision".
I'd advise having somebody local with cage-building experience do a "revision".
Except for the fact that a carbed lsx makes more power for less money than the fuel injected version....so its not really silly at all.
Fuel injection to supply 620hp is not cheap, a carb is, and FI defiantly takes away from the old school look.
Personally I like FI but carbing an lsx actually works very well and you get more bang for your buck if your looking for high hp.
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Compared to putting a similar style and capacity fuel injection system (I'm not talking some TBI setup or even a basic bolt on TPI style system) on any given small block or big block however the LSx has much more affordable options. Plus we're talking a 10,000 dollar crate motor in a rig that obviously has quite a bit of money backing it, not an LS1 or LS2 he pulled and did a mild rebuild on. If you want old school then don't use an LS based motor, they don't look anything like a small block or big block.
I only run carbs and run them on high horsepower motors, one of which is in the works to be a 4 digit hp motor. However, I stand by my opinion that it's silly to take such a modern motor and try to make a small block out of it. You might as well just build a big inch SBC for the same money then.
I only run carbs and run them on high horsepower motors, one of which is in the works to be a 4 digit hp motor. However, I stand by my opinion that it's silly to take such a modern motor and try to make a small block out of it. You might as well just build a big inch SBC for the same money then.
- Thread starter
- #10
Easy boy's
Pic's of the half doors i'm working on. I'll get back to you guys on the cage guess I better add some more tube!
Pic's of the half doors i'm working on. I'll get back to you guys on the cage guess I better add some more tube!
I can really only comment on the fuel injection carb discussion. With that kind of $$ invested in drivetrain I can imagine you will want to climb steep hills and end up off camber. The Holley and QFT carb I had did not like anything that resembled an angle. Having the truck die while going down hill and losing power steering sucked donkey ba!!s. It was a little dangerous, and a bit uncomfortable. Steep climbs were really no better. I switched to a Q-Jet and that helped but I had trouble getting it dialed in and it still didn't like to start on steep angles. The only thing worse to me than having a $10K motor, is sitting on a obstacle with a $10K motor that won't start. It would suck to have a bad-ass rig that won't run. I ended up getting a Powerjection III and after the pain of the price went away I am very happy with the results.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I'm no stranger to high HP LSx engines, and I know exactly what it would take to feed a 620hp LSx. Yes, it'll cost a few bucks, but obviously you value performance more than cost.. carbs can perform great in a straight line, and even OK on moderate trails, but once you start getting off-camber or on a steep hill, forget it. constant sloshing around in the bowls will lead to inaccurate fueling. You really want to risk burning a hole in that 11:1 piston because while you caught air, the carb metered a lean mixture?
The doors look really good!
I don't know that just throwing some more tube at it is gonna get the job done.
The bolted on rear section - Looks like it's bushing-mounted at the b-pillar, and hard-mounted to the bumper? if you're gonna lay back the b-pillar like that, it needs some strong support, and all that bent tube isn't gonna do it.
The X behind the seats doesn't go to the floor, and I'm hoping that it's just the angle of the picture, but there's no frame tie-ins from the b-pillar(s)?
one word on where the tubes of the whole cage come together... NODES. They are your friend, and a key to strength.
Please take this as constructive, as I do like the rig for the most part!
P,S. you're gonna snap the rear pinion like a twig if those tires ever hook
The doors look really good!
I don't know that just throwing some more tube at it is gonna get the job done.
The bolted on rear section - Looks like it's bushing-mounted at the b-pillar, and hard-mounted to the bumper? if you're gonna lay back the b-pillar like that, it needs some strong support, and all that bent tube isn't gonna do it.
The X behind the seats doesn't go to the floor, and I'm hoping that it's just the angle of the picture, but there's no frame tie-ins from the b-pillar(s)?
one word on where the tubes of the whole cage come together... NODES. They are your friend, and a key to strength.
Please take this as constructive, as I do like the rig for the most part!
P,S. you're gonna snap the rear pinion like a twig if those tires ever hook
- Thread starter
- #14
make some changes
Ok I have to be honest I was not very happy with the cage anyway I will build a new one I will still keep the layed back look I will just revise the strength issues thanks for the input everyone I am also thinking of linking the rear and s/over the front any help or ideas would be apreciated. My budget will allow me to do whatever changes nessasary to make this rig perform well at all types of driving situations remember I want to drive this on the street too! to eskimo its been a while since I have built anything I may be a little behind the times you dont think the dynatracs will hold up to the lsx? I would think they would be plenty strong I may be wrong im not sure any input is apreciated. thanks oh yah I will also look into fuel injection point me in the right direction boys!
Ok I have to be honest I was not very happy with the cage anyway I will build a new one I will still keep the layed back look I will just revise the strength issues thanks for the input everyone I am also thinking of linking the rear and s/over the front any help or ideas would be apreciated. My budget will allow me to do whatever changes nessasary to make this rig perform well at all types of driving situations remember I want to drive this on the street too! to eskimo its been a while since I have built anything I may be a little behind the times you dont think the dynatracs will hold up to the lsx? I would think they would be plenty strong I may be wrong im not sure any input is apreciated. thanks oh yah I will also look into fuel injection point me in the right direction boys!
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I think the pinion on a 60 is going to be your weak link with that much power right off idle. I suppose cryo'ing the ring and pinion could help. There are some large-spline count R&P sets for a 9" though, but I haven't looked too closely into them.
For the intake system, the FAST LSxR 102 with matching throttle body & some 60-ish-lb injectors should be perfect for it.
For the suspension.. I'd link it F&R. you could do a 3-link with hydro-assist steering in the front if you are leery of full-hydro. But just like the cage, this is something ya may want to farm out if you want it dead-on the first time.
For the intake system, the FAST LSxR 102 with matching throttle body & some 60-ish-lb injectors should be perfect for it.
For the suspension.. I'd link it F&R. you could do a 3-link with hydro-assist steering in the front if you are leery of full-hydro. But just like the cage, this is something ya may want to farm out if you want it dead-on the first time.