LSPV Bracket Mod @ Axle (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 7, 2006
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538
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO, Heart in AZ
I searched and found some info, but with my OME 863 springs netting 3-4" lift depending on the load, I need to raise the mount at the axle more than when I was running 860's @2.5" higher than stock. I previously raised that mount with a home-made extension, about 2".

Now, with the mod done at 3" higher, the rod is almost touching the upper control arm. I know with axle articulation this is not good. I need to go another inch.

Question: Has anyone flipped the rod to go above the UCA? I don't see how a 4" longer bracket extension like the one from MAF would work. I need to do something. I already noticed the decreased braking from having less rear brake. I will talk to the boys at Slee tomorrow when I pick up some 3 degree bushings for the front and get their suggestions, too.

The LSPV is not going to move down, which is what everyone else is doing. The studs that hold it to the bracket that then attaches to the frame are rusted frozen, so dropping it is not an option at this time. I got one of the two bolts (stud) to break loose, but the other one is not going to move, regardless of pounding, spraying, etc. on it.

My buddy had his mini truck at Advanced Off-Road in Grand Junction a long time ago had them cut the rod short and use a neat heim joint-like end mounted to the frame crossmember to allow adjustment. Seemed like a cool idea.
 
when i put the lift on my truck, i did the same thing with a 2" bracket that i made. i also noticed that i might encounter clearance problems with the lspv rod, so i put it back to stock and lowered the lspv at the frame. you should try a nut splitter on the rusted nut if nothing else works.
 
I don't see how a 4" longer bracket extension like the one from MAF would work.

Like all their other suspension bits for the 80, this 4" extension was not thought out and it doesn't work. As you pointed out, it causes the rod to hit the rear upper control arm. Nice and hefty (along with the price) and nice powder coat but otherwise a waste of money.

Wanna buy mine? :D

-B-
 
Dude....raising the bracket at the axle housing is not the way to do it. It works but, as you've discovered, there are problems depending on how much lift you have.

You want to LOWER the valve bracket at the frame instead. Same effect but you have to move it WAY less. I can't remember the ratio but it's in the neighborhood of 16:1. For 4" of lift you only need to drop the valve at the frame by about 1/4" :)

Sorry I can't give you the link but if you search for it you'll find at least 1 discussion.
 
You want to LOWER the valve bracket at the frame instead.

He has made it quite clear in post #1 that he cannot move it down at the frame. The general rule of thumb is that a 1/4" lowering at the frame will compensate for a 3" lift.

-B-
 
I tried again today to lower the valve, but it didn't budge.

I also moved the rod above the UCA, but it was too high, then.

My new thread below shows the solution!
 

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