LS 400 vs LX470 Fan Clutch

[abuck99]

The fan clutch for the US spec 2UZFE is pretty light engagement the cross reference is Aisin FCT021 its the Blue clutch.

The Black clutch in the 1URFE is much heavier engagement.

For wheeling and slow operation, climbing, crawling we like heavier longer duration engagement.

 

[abdamn]

The LS definitely wont have the same cooling needs as the 100 based on its duty cycle- designed around fuel efficiency, lighter load, no 4wd. I think you’d be going in the wrong direction with the LS fan clutch-If anything you’d want less slip under hot conditions, not more-and all that requires is a heavier viscosity fluid. But not sure what your ultimate goal is?

There is lots of info over in the 80 forum on modding the fan clutch. The “blue” fan clutch that comes in 100 4.7 is a bit light imo for built trucks- which is why some of us have pulled them and added heavier fluid (and more volume too).

Can I know the blue one part number?

 

[abuck99]

Are you looking for 2UZFE or 1FZFE as they call for different application.

If you have access to Aisin brand auto parts in UAE. For 2UZFE- Aisin FCT-021 Aisin Aftermarket
Toyota cross reference: 16210-50051 (its 2x the price of the AISIN part here the US)

 

[abdamn]

Are you looking for 2UZFE or 1FZFE as they call for different application.

If you have access to Aisin brand auto parts in UAE. For 2UZFE- Aisin FCT-021 Aisin Aftermarket
Toyota cross reference: 16210-50051 (its 2x the price of the AISIN part here the US)

I will for sure and let u know what happens next

 

[OwnerCS]

Just an update. I replaced a noisy fan clutch (looked OEM) in July 2020 with the AISIN FCT021 from RockAuto. The delivered cost was $85 and change. All was good after the replacement. Though I eventually replaced the serrated flare nuts with new Toyota parts because a couple would not stay tight. I've been through this with other Japanese fan clutches and consider the nuts to be a one-time or maybe two-time use nut. The serrated part seems to lose its bite after use.

Recently a whining noise returned only to get louder and more frequent. I took my mechanic's stethoscope and check all of the usual suspects. Using the probe, I did find some noise coming from the small center idler pulley. I replaced the small pulley with a new OEM at roughly the same time last year that I replaced the clutch.

Now I'm starting to see a pattern with some fairly short life replacement parts. Since I wanted to remedy and rule out the idler pulley on short order, I bought a new Gates pulley from O'Reilly Auto for $59. It's a nice-looking pulley that is made in Canada. Actually, it's a slightly different flat design that looks like it will not collect mud in the bearing area. I like the way it looks. It may work well in my muddy environment. Warranty replacement has been good for me at O'Reilly since they keep up with past purchases. So I gave it a try and it did bring down the noise level -- but not completely.

During pulley replacement, I removed the serpentine belt to spin the pulleys and everything was smooth. However, I did notice the fan clutch was freewheeling a bit more than I remembered from the original installation. Since my 1999 Tacoma also uses a similar type of fan clutch, I decided to check it as a comparison. The two-year-old Tacoma clutch was tight as a new clutch should be. Maybe the clutch problem has returned. When I turn off the engine, the fan clutch seems to spin way more freely than the Tacoma 5vzFE.

Does this fan appear to spin too freely after I cut the engine?

 

[abuck99]

if the fluid is hot it’s going to shear more and spin longer- my question would be what are your operating temps- crawling/wheeling or stop and go traffic in summertime heat ?

You can add or change the silicone fluid in the FC, also can adjust how/when internal valve opens and closes to control fan engagement.

 

[OwnerCS]

if the fluid is hot it’s going to shear more and spin longer- my question would be what are your operating temps- crawling/wheeling or stop and go traffic in summertime heat ?

You can add or change the silicone fluid in the FC, also can adjust how/when internal valve opens and closes to control fan engagement.

Temps have been running 184 around town. Wheeling at 192 or down to 184. Though I did notice temperatures rising in the 195 range with aggressive interstate driving. I don't remember temps getting over 195 running the A/C in Colorado. I can't complain about temps unless I'm running very fast on the interstate for a prolonged period.

 

[abuck99]

From that report, fan clutch seems fine. If its slipping too much, your running temps at slow speed, especially crawling will climb and be slow to recover.

 

[OwnerCS]

From that report, fan clutch seems fine. If its slipping too much, your running temps at slow speed, especially crawling will climb and be slow to recover.

Thank you. I'm just trying to find the source of the noise.

 

[abuck99]

I have a minor squeaky sound for a couple minutes when cold. I attribute to accessory belt having been run through water crossings, etc. All the pulleys are near new, ( except AC compressor) but wheeling it in dusty, or muddy/wet and the belt surface composition changes. So it's not slipping but sticking to the pulley like a new tennis shoe squeaks on a gym floor. (Highly scientific theory right?)

 

[OwnerCS]

I have a minor squeaky sound for a couple minutes when cold. I attribute to accessory belt having been run through water crossings, etc. All the pulleys are near new, ( except AC compressor) but wheeling it in dusty, or muddy/wet and the belt surface composition changes. So it's not slipping but sticking to the pulley like a new tennis shoe squeaks on a gym floor. (Highly scientific theory right?)

Great idea. It has been through some water lately and I wash out the radiator after each trip. That could very well be it.