Low Vacuum/Rough Idle problem

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Joined
Apr 3, 2007
Threads
25
Messages
81
Location
Long Branch, NJ
About a year ago, I installed an in-cab vacuum gauge. I saw that the reading was low, but steady, at around 14 Hg at idle. I did a lean drop on the carb, and it was perfect - steady at 18 at idle. It was that was for the whole year.

Then recently, I brought it to get new tires and an alignment at a pretty reputable place. When I picked it up afterwards, however, I noticed the vacuum reading was low again when I started it (~14 Hg) and the idle was a little rough. It has been like this for a few weeks now, but with absolutely no rhyme or reason. When the engine is cold, half the time it might idle fine and at 18 or 19 Hg, and half the time it may idle rougher and at anywhere from 10-14 Hg. Same thing when it's warm - I'll come to a stop light after driving 20 miles, it half the time it might idle perfectly at 18Hg, and sometimes it may idle a little rougher at 14.

I thought it may be in need of another lean drop, which I tried to do to the best of my ability. However, I noticed that when adjusting the idle mixture screw, I found a perfect point where the idle was as fast as it would get, but if I turned it in either direction, the idle dropped. I though that if you continue to turn out the screw once the max is reached, it should stay maxed out, and not drop.

Anyway, that didn't fix the rough idle/low vacuum problem at all. Actually today, on the way to work, for the first time ever, the truck just died on me while driving to work. While the engine was still relatively cool, I let off the gas for a second, and was just idling down the road for a sec, and it just turned off - no rough idle or sputtering - just turned off. :-( It started right back up, but scared the crap out of me since it had never done anything like that before.

So, here are my questions: Could a mechanic/kid not familiar with old manual truck tranny's have leaned on the clutch too much or something, and thrown the idle out of whack? Also, when doing the lean drop, could I have made it too lean or too rich causing it to die this morning? And most importantly, anyone have any clue what could be causing the unpredictable rough idle/low vacuum problems?
 
Is this a stock carb you have? If so, you have twelve miles of vacuum hoses running helter skelter under your hood and any one of them could be the culprit. One thing that I have seen many times before is a vacuum advance diaphram failure on the distributor. When this happens, what is supposed to be a vacuum advance is now just a vacuum leak. Pull the hoses from your distributor and see if the two diaphrams will hold vacuum.
 
I would change all your vacuum lines if they are the original ones. You have a copy of the smog FSM? I would check all your vacuum lines and see if one came loose.
 
I changed all the vacuum lines a couple years ago with the new blue silicone ones that folks talk about here - that definitely helped with the overall performance of the truck.

All the vac lines seem to be in good working order, minus the line from the pcv valve to the valve attached to the air cleaner. That one seems to get a little discolored hot, and also seems to cave in on itself sometimes.

Lehiguy - are you talking about the hoses attached to the distributor cap, or the two connected to the circular metal piece off to the side of the distributor? If you're talking about the latter, there are two hoses that go to that - one with vacuum and one without. Do you know which should go to which outlet?

I don't have the smog FSM - anyone have a scanned image of the vacuum line routings?
 
I changed all the vacuum lines a couple years ago with the new blue silicone ones that folks talk about here - that definitely helped with the overall performance of the truck.

All the vac lines seem to be in good working order, minus the line from the pcv valve to the valve attached to the air cleaner. That one seems to get a little discolored hot, and also seems to cave in on itself sometimes.

Lehiguy - are you talking about the hoses attached to the distributor cap, or the two connected to the circular metal piece off to the side of the distributor? If you're talking about the latter, there are two hoses that go to that - one with vacuum and one without. Do you know which should go to which outlet?

I don't have the smog FSM - anyone have a scanned image of the vacuum line routings?

I'd be lying if I said I know which one is which. Evidently, one gives more advance than the other and that one is active when the rig is cold. The other gives less and is active when the motor is hot, or so I believe. Either way, they should both hold vacuum. Toyota does sell that part, but it is expensive, so much so that you might even entertain a complete DUI distributor once you get the bill. Just put a tube on each of those things and suck. Please, no jokes!
 
I'd be lying if I said I know which one is which. Evidently, one gives more advance than the other and that one is active when the rig is cold. The other gives less and is active when the motor is hot, or so I believe. Either way, they should both hold vacuum. !

The distributor has two vacuum diaphragms. The inner one advances the ignition timing as the engine speed increases. This port is connected to the carburetor to a port inlet that is located near the throttle plate. When the throttle plate is closed (at idle) there is little to no vacuum applied. As the throttle plate opens, more vacuum is applied, providing more ignition advance. There is a temperature switch (BVSV) that prevents ignition advance when the engine is cold.

The outer port on the distributor advance is connected to the HAC (high altitude compensation) system. This provides an additional 6degrees advance when at high altitude (above 3930 ft elevation). Depending upon the elevation where you live, this will either be always off (low elevation) or always on (high elevation)

As Lehiguy suggests, make sure both diaphragms will hold vacuum (don't leak).
 
The distributor has two vacuum diaphragms. The inner one advances the ignition timing as the engine speed increases. This port is connected to the carburetor to a port inlet that is located near the throttle plate. When the throttle plate is closed (at idle) there is little to no vacuum applied. As the throttle plate opens, more vacuum is applied, providing more ignition advance. There is a temperature switch (BVSV) that prevents ignition advance when the engine is cold.

The outer port on the distributor advance is connected to the HAC (high altitude compensation) system. This provides an additional 6degrees advance when at high altitude (above 3930 ft elevation). Depending upon the elevation where you live, this will either be always off (low elevation) or always on (high elevation)

As Lehiguy suggests, make sure both diaphragms will hold
vacuum (don't leak).

So that's how those work? I did a desmog on mine the minute I got it home, so I never had to figure out all those vacuum circuits.
 
Best place to start is to make sure all your lines are still connected, then make sure none are cracked.

Here is a diagram; scroll down a little ways. There are others floating around if that isn't clear enough. Also, I've found that looking at pictures of other peoples lines that are hooked up correctly is a big help.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/105431-tune-up-knowledge-needed-87-fj-60-a.html

Oh, and if you are still smogged then your timing should be 7* BTDC not 14*.
 

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