low speed miss/stalling on my 2001 Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Greetings to all!!!!

I have owned my 2nd 2001 Land Cruiser for approx. 3 years (the first one was totalled in an accident at 216 K miles). Last summer it began to develop a low speed miss/stalling problems especially when the temperature outside got warmer/hot. The problem was there all winter (low speed miss only) and now has come back worse (low speed miss/stalling at intersections). The check engine (and VSC Trac light) light comes on and I read the code with my reader and it says low speed idle circuit problem (I have an Auto Enginuity laptop reader with the specific Toyota downloads).

I have a steep hill by my house and when I go from a stop to moving up the hill under load it misses and the check engine light flashes.

Last night I brought home a new 18' covered trailer and had to back it up my driveway in the dark (it took several tries in the dark). By the time I finished backing it up the driveway my battery light came on and the lights were dimmer than normal.

I've had the battery and alternator checked out at different places and they both check out OK. One of the places that checked out the alternator told me that the serpentine belt tensioner was too loose and thus the belt was slipping (I have noticed from time to time that the belt does make a small, not very loud noise when rotating around the pulleys).

When I drive the vehicle at higher speeds/RPM's it runs lke a champ (even with 186 K miles on it).

Has anyone else experiened this problem before?

Any advice to help me diagnose this problem is greatly appreciated.

How difficult is the belt tensioner to replace?

NWM
 
I have a 1999 Land Cruiser, 185k miles. Has been near perfect other than a brake assembly about 6 months ago for $2000. Recently, I noticed that it would stall on occasion, usually on slow speed turns, much like many on the forum have experienced. I cleaned the throttle body, at least the areas that are accessable after removing the ducting leading to the intact manifold. Wow, what a difference, it seems quicker (for a Land Cruiser) smoother and no more stalls. 1/2 a can of throttle body cleaner and the truck is running great. If you are experiencing occasional stalling, give it a try. Phil

1999 Land Cruiser 185k miles:bounce:
 
By the way, I have only had one check engine light since I have owned the truck (10 years) and it was for a bad O2 sensor.

Phil
1999 Land Cruiser 185k miles
 
I second the notion of cleaning the throttle body; classic symptoms of buildup are rough idle & stalling. My 02 has (only?) 73k and I could not believe the amount of black buildup there was; the cleaned tb paired with a new air fliter felt like a 30hp gain.

It's inexpensive & easy, so if it doesn't solve your problem, you're only out $7 and maybe 30-45min of your time.
 
buy your thottle body is clean! :p

You'd better believe it! I cleaned it with a toothbrush like I was mad at it...

Northwoodsman, let us know how it turns out & if a cleaning solves your issues.
 
Is there a good way or anyway to clean the throttle body beyond the front area nd behind the butterfly flap. On my Land Rovers there is a process of doing an induction cleaning by sucking in B44 or Seafoam through a breather line, letting it sit for 20 minutes and then driving around for 20 minutes while you smoke out the countryside. Has anyone done that on a Series 100? thanks Phil
 
For inside the butterfly flap, I liberally sprayed a rag with STP, held the flap open with a couple of fingers, and wiped out the inside; once I got things pretty wet in there, I used the toothbrush. I couldn't see inside, but took my time, was very thorough, and kept at it until it wiped out with no residue on the rag. It was worth the couple of finger nicks & scrapes I acquired holding the flap open while wiping/scrubbing with the other hand.

I'm sure it wasn't a perfect job but it's made a big difference. Others have used Seafoam and similar products with apparently good results.
 
Is there a good way or anyway to clean the throttle body beyond the front area nd behind the butterfly flap.

i have not done this, but wondering if its that hard to remove the entire TB and intake manifold, and hot tank em. did someone already write this? seems to me it would be as clean as it gets, but maybe not worth the extra effort...
 
i have not done this, but wondering if its that hard to remove the entire TB and intake manifold, and hot tank em. did someone already write this? seems to me it would be as clean as it gets, but maybe not worth the extra effort...

Would take hot-rod guy devotion to go through all that...

...but hats off to anyone who does.
 
i have not done this, but wondering if its that hard to remove the entire TB and intake manifold, and hot tank em. did someone already write this? seems to me it would be as clean as it gets, but maybe not worth the extra effort...

I doubt anything beyond freeing up the moving components and cleaning the sensors is of any value. The airflow will not be changed by the tiny bit of scum on the sides of the intake. All the improvement comes with the proper operation of the flap.

I hardly see how running all the garbage through the engine with a "cleaner" and befouling the country side like the landy owners would be better than leaving it be.

Treat it like asbestos or a sleeping dog. Don't do anything until it becomes a problem.
 
For inside the butterfly flap, I liberally sprayed a rag with STP, held the flap open with a couple of fingers, and wiped out the inside; once I got things pretty wet in there, I used the toothbrush. I couldn't see inside, but took my time, was very thorough, and kept at it until it wiped out with no residue on the rag. It was worth the couple of finger nicks & scrapes I acquired holding the flap open while wiping/scrubbing with the other hand.

I'm sure it wasn't a perfect job but it's made a big difference. Others have used Seafoam and similar products with apparently good results.

i cleaned the hell out of mine, twice, when i changed out my starter. Mine wasnt too dirty, but you could tell a difference.
 
If you can find a shop with a BG intake cleaner, that will be your best bet...it vaporizes the cleaner so it gets both sides of the flap, into the air horns and all the places you can't reach by hand! With the kit we sell, it includes a can of 44k so you get a complete flush of the fuel system, throttle body, air horns...

YouTube - BG Products Fuel Service Improves Gas Mileage

I have one at my shop, I just did the cleaning the other day, with 89k on it, there was a ton of garbage coming out of the tail pipe. Performance and throttle response has been restored, fuel milage is increasing.. I will have some numbers on that once i get through this tank..

you can punch in your zip here and see if there is someone with that tool in your area..

BG Findashop - Search for an authorized BG service center near you!
 
I have one at my shop, I just did the cleaning the other day, with 89k on it, there was a ton of garbage coming out of the tail pipe.

"Ton of garbage" was in the intake and has now been run past the valves,piston,rings,o2 sensors and through the cats. :frown:

44k in the fuel isn't a bad idea.
 
"Ton of garbage" was in the intake and has now been run past the valves,piston,rings,o2 sensors and through the cats. :frown:

44k in the fuel isn't a bad idea.

Its nothing that does not go through that system already..and unless you are going to tear down your engine, there is no better way to clean. I would not say that its been run past those items, it cleans those as well...When i put the scope into my block prior, all the valves were pretty black..after the cleaning, all i could see was a few little spec of carbon here and there..
 

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