Did you solve the vib problem??
Low rumble and vibration when letting up on accelerator.
- Thread starter BadgerManBEN
- Start date
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Sure would like to hear how this one ended. That noise description was all to familiar, but mine only does it in H4, over 30 mph on decelleration. Did not notice it until the snow storm hit today.
I'll sit here with my Grand Ole Party popcorn bag and wait.
Ryan
I'll sit here with my Grand Ole Party popcorn bag and wait.
Ryan
Yeah any resolution on your issues? I’m tracking down noises that seem kinda similar.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
It’s been nine years. I’m guessing: maybe.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Bump
Evening Mud
Anyone resolve this? I'm getting a rumble grumble when decelerating especially between throttle on and that tiny spot between throttle off.
It also does it decelerating especially between 65-45mph.
All fluid new
New rear driveshaft solved different vibes
New 4:88 gears
New ARB lockers
New diff koyo bearing pro installed
New 100% Axle rebuild
Matching newer tires
New Mr front ujoints
Bla bla the list goes on
I should note she was doing this vibration before I did the axle, diff and gear/locker work.
I did think I noticed it less with the magic Mercedes silver slip yolk grease.
S@$& all that's left is a new front driveshaft and transfer case rebuild
maybe I'll plan to replace and rebuild.
I'll pull the front driveshaft, lock the CDL and drive it but this won't isolate if it's the front drive shaft or the output bearing on the front drive shaft to the transfer case.
Any other ideas Mud?
Evening Mud
Anyone resolve this? I'm getting a rumble grumble when decelerating especially between throttle on and that tiny spot between throttle off.
It also does it decelerating especially between 65-45mph.
All fluid new
New rear driveshaft solved different vibes
New 4:88 gears
New ARB lockers
New diff koyo bearing pro installed
New 100% Axle rebuild
Matching newer tires
New Mr front ujoints
Bla bla the list goes on
I should note she was doing this vibration before I did the axle, diff and gear/locker work.
I did think I noticed it less with the magic Mercedes silver slip yolk grease.
S@$& all that's left is a new front driveshaft and transfer case rebuild
maybe I'll plan to replace and rebuild.I'll pull the front driveshaft, lock the CDL and drive it but this won't isolate if it's the front drive shaft or the output bearing on the front drive shaft to the transfer case.
Any other ideas Mud?
I’m right there with you. I can actually play with the noise a bit by just feathering the throttle when coasting above 40mph or so. It’s that slight pressing/releasing of the throttle at speed that causes the noise (might I add that it’s not overly loud, but I can hear it. I don’t think my wife would notice).Bump
Evening Mud
Anyone resolve this? I'm getting a rumble grumble when decelerating especially between throttle on and that tiny spot between throttle off.
It also does it decelerating especially between 65-45mph.
All fluid new
New rear driveshaft solved different vibes
New 4:88 gears
New ARB lockers
New diff koyo bearing pro installed
New 100% Axle rebuild
Matching newer tires
New Mr front ujoints
Bla bla the list goes on
I should note she was doing this vibration before I did the axle, diff and gear/locker work.
I did think I noticed it less with the magic Mercedes silver slip yolk grease.
S@$& all that's left is a new front driveshaft and transfer case rebuild
I'll pull the front driveshaft, lock the CDL and drive it but this won't isolate if it's the front drive shaft or the output bearing on the front drive shaft to the transfer case.
Any other ideas Mud?
I wish I had an answer for you…
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
That's exactly it, great throttle discrimination.
It's got to either be the front driveshaft or transfer front bearing.
Luckily on our rig driveshafts are cheap at $350 each. I'm ordering a front tomorrow, I plan to carry spare driveshaft, spindle, bearings and other parts on big trips anyway.
I'll report back.
If you have a CDL you could pull your front drive shaft lock the CDL and drive it.
ChaseTruck
--
Maybe I missed it, but skimming through the thread, I didn't quite see the usual first-line suspects being addressed - dry front drive shaft u-joints, and too much grease in the slip yokes (essentially hydro-locking the drive shaft against compression).
Speaking for myself, I don’t feel any play in the driveshaft, I did recently grease the u-joints, however a shop did grease the slips and I noticed the sound shortly after. They may have overdressed despite my suggestion of just two pumps.I should probably remove the zerk and just start afresh with the amount of grease.
problem is, my noise is mostly consistent but some days is gone, which always complicated troubleshooting.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Don't get carried away with the shaft greasing! Over greasing will create a hydraulic press situation and you will in effect be ramming the shafts into the pinion and transfer box bearings hard, this will certainly knock them out, but it also brings up a rumble.
For peace of mind mark the shafts and pull them out, Check the ftont and rear yokes are phased correctly. Mark with a punch pull them off and clean inside and out thoughly, you will also be able to check the U joints properly with zero load on them. Look for a nice smooth movement, any jerkibess indicates the rooler bearings are on their way out, and when greasing look for fresh grease coming from the four cups.
When looking for noises checking a bit here and there means you WILL end up chasing your tail.
Baby steps here for sure.
Regards
Dave
For peace of mind mark the shafts and pull them out, Check the ftont and rear yokes are phased correctly. Mark with a punch pull them off and clean inside and out thoughly, you will also be able to check the U joints properly with zero load on them. Look for a nice smooth movement, any jerkibess indicates the rooler bearings are on their way out, and when greasing look for fresh grease coming from the four cups.
When looking for noises checking a bit here and there means you WILL end up chasing your tail.
Baby steps here for sure.
Regards
Dave
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
I'm reporting back
I pulled the front drive shaft lubed it up with Lucas red and tacky on the u-joints and use the Mercedes silver grease trick on the slip yoke.
I drove it with the CDL locked and no front drive shaft zero vibration or rumble.
I placed the front drive shaft back in place turn the CDL off and drove it the rumble is noticeably lower.
I think a combination of upgrading to the red and tacky Grease and the Mercedes grease on the slip yoke to remove any play helped.
The PO did no maintenance and I had to replace my rear drive shaft last year because there was visible play in the slip yoke. I'm betting it's the same situation in the front drive shaft it's just a little more pronounced.
No hydraulic lock on the slip yoke I worked it without the zerk fitting and made sure that it was moving freely. I also insured I pressed all the old grease out and the new Lucas Redd in on the bench as well.
I think I'll order a new factory driveshaft today they're not expensive. And, yes the u-joints are brand new Mr T u-joints about 3,000 MI.
The reality is no matter how hard we do it at home we can never get it as close balance as the factory or a driveline specialty shop.
I'll report back what the new drive shaft delivered, though with my 3-in lift I'm wondering if I should go to a double carton in case I ever go 4 in looks like more mud reading is in my future
Cheers Mud
I pulled the front drive shaft lubed it up with Lucas red and tacky on the u-joints and use the Mercedes silver grease trick on the slip yoke.
I drove it with the CDL locked and no front drive shaft zero vibration or rumble.
I placed the front drive shaft back in place turn the CDL off and drove it the rumble is noticeably lower.
I think a combination of upgrading to the red and tacky Grease and the Mercedes grease on the slip yoke to remove any play helped.
The PO did no maintenance and I had to replace my rear drive shaft last year because there was visible play in the slip yoke. I'm betting it's the same situation in the front drive shaft it's just a little more pronounced.
No hydraulic lock on the slip yoke I worked it without the zerk fitting and made sure that it was moving freely. I also insured I pressed all the old grease out and the new Lucas Redd in on the bench as well.
I think I'll order a new factory driveshaft today they're not expensive. And, yes the u-joints are brand new Mr T u-joints about 3,000 MI.
The reality is no matter how hard we do it at home we can never get it as close balance as the factory or a driveline specialty shop.
I'll report back what the new drive shaft delivered, though with my 3-in lift I'm wondering if I should go to a double carton in case I ever go 4 in looks like more mud reading is in my future
Cheers Mud
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Do the u joints rotate freely in every direction?
The growl on deceleration is typical of joints.
O think there's a couple of things people miss with u joints.
I've had new Toyota u joints that bound up on installing clips. The clips were too thick and caused the uni joint caps to press tight on the spider. I carefully sanded clips down to alleviate this. I speculate this binding would be enough to prevent the uni moving freely and possibly responsible for vibrations in some cases.
toyota make several thickness of c clip for the uni joint caps
Feeling for uni joint movement with them installed in the vehicle is not an adequate test IMO.
Remove the shaft, (2 wrenches, 8 bolts, 15 minutes, don't drop it on your head) and rotate the uni joints in every direction. If it doesn’t rotate freely and smoothly in every direction, time for new ones.
I've had uni joints look fine in the vehicle, removed the shaft and found them to be binding, on removal I've found heavily grooved bearing surfaces, and busted needle rollers in the caps.
I wish I could throw $350 new parts at every issue!!
The growl on deceleration is typical of joints.
O think there's a couple of things people miss with u joints.
I've had new Toyota u joints that bound up on installing clips. The clips were too thick and caused the uni joint caps to press tight on the spider. I carefully sanded clips down to alleviate this. I speculate this binding would be enough to prevent the uni moving freely and possibly responsible for vibrations in some cases.
toyota make several thickness of c clip for the uni joint caps
Feeling for uni joint movement with them installed in the vehicle is not an adequate test IMO.
Remove the shaft, (2 wrenches, 8 bolts, 15 minutes, don't drop it on your head) and rotate the uni joints in every direction. If it doesn’t rotate freely and smoothly in every direction, time for new ones.
I've had uni joints look fine in the vehicle, removed the shaft and found them to be binding, on removal I've found heavily grooved bearing surfaces, and busted needle rollers in the caps.
I wish I could throw $350 new parts at every issue!!
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
3 inch lift? I did not see that mentioned in your opening post, its always good to throw out as much info as possible when describing a problem, anything over 2" seems to bring up drivetrain issues.. 
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
3 inch lift? I did not see that mentioned in your opening post, its always good to throw out as much info as possible when describing a problem, anything over 2" seems to bring up drivetrain issues..
Regards
Dave
Also, if lift is recent, and you're running old uni's the uni joint may be settling in a new position and not comfortable due to old wear patterns.
Worn uni joints can have definite non-concentric wear on the bearing surfaces as the roller needles rock back and forth within a limited range of rotation. The uni's don't do full rotations ever. This leads to definite worn grooves.
Adding lift pushes the roller needles to a new position
