I think he does it all with smoke and mirrors
Looking for short cuts, hints and "duh" help...
- Thread starter Mtbcoach
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R
- Thread starter
- #23
Going out to drain all the fluids and give it a tug. Should be done in time to watch The Price is Right...
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- #25
Comes on at 11 am, so I missed my mark.
Unfortunately, I got re-allocated to paint duty since my lovely spouse bailed on her duty to help my youngest paint her room. It was a good choice since she is a good kid and did all the prep work. Sometimes, cruiser stuff just has to be given the back seat.
All I got done was drain the oil, tranny and transfer case. I do have the fenders and bib off (I had about a 1:2 ratio breaking bolts even with 2 applications of PB Blaster) and everything labelled from Sunday's work. The wiring harness is disconnected in the engine bay, I have already removed the intake/exhaust manifold and carb from previous work/diagnostics.
Tomorrow morning, I'll finish by draining the radiator, removing the drive shafts and start unbolting the engine/tranny/transfer case for removal. I picked up a load leveler as suggested and a couple dollys from Harbor Freight which should make things easier for this old man.
I'll start a fresh thread on the tear down and build up.
All I can say at this point is that I'm glad to be tearing it down. The salt/rust/corrosion around everything is amazing. I just hope there is something left after I get it all removed...
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- #27
Got a couple more hours on it this morning. Almost ready to try and pull it. Once I think it will only take a few minutes to get something free, I get one of those nicely rusted bolts that shuts me down for a while.
Nothing like tearing down a vehicle that spent much of its life up North...
Nothing like tearing down a vehicle that spent much of its life up North...
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- #29
Alright, got the last things detached this morning. Thank goodness for ih8mud, I couldn't understand the technique to remove the shift lever. A quick search let me know to push down the cup, then rotate. Amazing how easy things are when one follows the correct procedure.
Due to my employer's amazing diversity programs, I get tomorrow off for Rosh Hashanah. So, tomorrow it is, its coming out one way or another.
I've been taking a ton pics and plan on doing the same tomorrow. The "plan" is to have the hoist such that I can roll the truck and/or the hoist to move things out of the way of each other. I'll have a pallet to put it down on and do some initial scrubbing/cleaning/wire brush work before it gets moved into the garage for continued tear down.
I have to ask, what is the nice, black, grease/oil/lube coming out of the speedo cable. Do people pour lube into the housing to help things spin smoothly or is it from a bad seal in the transfer case. This wasn't a drop or two, more like an ounce of very dirty lube.
When I get home tonight, I'll start the tear down/build up thread for all to see the trials and challenges set forth by this project...
Due to my employer's amazing diversity programs, I get tomorrow off for Rosh Hashanah. So, tomorrow it is, its coming out one way or another.
I've been taking a ton pics and plan on doing the same tomorrow. The "plan" is to have the hoist such that I can roll the truck and/or the hoist to move things out of the way of each other. I'll have a pallet to put it down on and do some initial scrubbing/cleaning/wire brush work before it gets moved into the garage for continued tear down.
I have to ask, what is the nice, black, grease/oil/lube coming out of the speedo cable. Do people pour lube into the housing to help things spin smoothly or is it from a bad seal in the transfer case. This wasn't a drop or two, more like an ounce of very dirty lube.
When I get home tonight, I'll start the tear down/build up thread for all to see the trials and challenges set forth by this project...
Sounds like bad seal on the cable itself. There is a little one on the end of the cable that screws into the tail housing.
Truthfully though, as long as it is not eating the oil up i would leave it like it is for the cable, help it not to stick.
Truthfully though, as long as it is not eating the oil up i would leave it like it is for the cable, help it not to stick.
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- #31
Cool, thanks. I'll have to check everything since the whole underside is covered in oil, I'm not 100% where its coming from. I'm sure I'll be replacing most if not all the seals in the coming days, weeks, months...
You know how on motorcycles we try to lube the cables once in awhile, so i see this as the same thing.
Now if it pressurized then that might be a bad thing coming out in the cab.
Now if it pressurized then that might be a bad thing coming out in the cab.
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- #33
That is what I assumed it was since it didn't "drain" until I removed it and it hung down, dribbling all over the ground.
Yes, that would be a bad thing to have it squirting all over the back side of the speedo...
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- #34
Update...3 hrs later, it's still dangling from the hoist. I guess I'm not smart enough to wiggle it out. Funny how my FSM doesn't have instructions how to remove the engine. Sitting down for a late lunch, cool down and recharge to get this thing out.
Apparently, I need to remove the tranny crossmember. Problem is the PO mounted it in such a manner that I can't seem to get a wrench on the nut inside the frame. Sawzall, here we come...
Apparently, I need to remove the tranny crossmember. Problem is the PO mounted it in such a manner that I can't seem to get a wrench on the nut inside the frame. Sawzall, here we come...
- Thread starter
- #36
Its a 4 speed/transfer case off a 3F and I've been told a crossmember off a 60.
It simply had to come off. I loosened the bolts but the nuts spin inside the frame. There is so much debris in the frame that I couldn't get a socket on it, trying to fish it in via one of the holes in the frame.
Once I got the crossmember off, it came out just like it should. Its now free, sitting on the garage floor, in a dolly and a 4x4 across the legs of the hoist. I'll get back to the progress on the other thread, I just had to vent here.
I just kick myself so much for just not doing what I know I should from the start. I burned a bunch of time trying to get it out w/o cutting off the bolt heads, yet, if I just did it from the start, I would have the engine separated from the tranny/transfer case by now.
Live and learn...
Live and learn is very true.
I learned alot when i did my 45.
Like i have said give me a shout if you run into anything, not saying i know all of the stuff but should be able to get you in the right dirrection.
I learned alot when i did my 45.
Like i have said give me a shout if you run into anything, not saying i know all of the stuff but should be able to get you in the right dirrection.
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- #38
Since you ask...what do I have here. Not trying to be tricky and will clean things up tomorrow for easier identification, but, being a complete novice....
Here is a pic or two...
The engine code matches the '77 part of the truck, the PO said he got it from Canada or from someone who did but didn't want it, he swapped in a tranny/transfer case out of a 60. One can clearly see the "3F" emboss in the bellhousing but someone suggested that there is some sort of spacer between the transfer case and tranny.
No doubt I'll be gaining mucho knowledge through this process...
Here is a pic or two...
The engine code matches the '77 part of the truck, the PO said he got it from Canada or from someone who did but didn't want it, he swapped in a tranny/transfer case out of a 60. One can clearly see the "3F" emboss in the bellhousing but someone suggested that there is some sort of spacer between the transfer case and tranny.
No doubt I'll be gaining mucho knowledge through this process...
Hmm 3F bell housing. Just what I need for my manual swap. 
I just picked up a 2F trans and t-case that came with the 40 I bought. It also has the 3F bell housing. I'll have to check for the "spacer"