Looking for help with a V8 Fj60 conversion (1 Viewer)

[gifu]

Another quick note here about clutches. While, I still say that using the way too expensive CF clutch will avoid a lot of hassle, I think I was really dang close to finding the correct non-CF clutch for a stock 4 speed behind a chevy motor. I tried a 12" clutch from a late model chevy truck (late model used a hydraulic TO bearing, i _think_ it was a Luk 04064). It's diaphram, low profile clutch. It's really close to working, but the cruiser hydraulics don't have quite enough travel to release. After reading a bit on the Novak site, I realized that had I used an 11" clutch, the throw needed to release the clutch is shorter, by quite a bit. The equivalent 11" would be a Luk 04072.

 

[Gumby]

Trans slid in like butta with the 60 p-plate. A check before putting the trans up to the bell housing showed a good half inch of free play in the t/o bearing .

Downey full circle bell housings suck. The t/o bearing came off the fork when we stabbed the trans and there's no way to get at it now. My hands are too big to go in through the off-side fork hole and I can't see in there anyway. I'm ready to use a hole saw on the bellhousing so I can get the damn fork on.

 

[theSherpa]

Brian, a quick Google search shows the 04072 Luk application to be '55-'76 generic 11" Chebbie...seems unlikely to be low-travel like the '95 hydro-throwout. Just throwing that out there. I wonder if KGM10 (the only post-'95 11" pressure plate they show?) or 04121 ('91-'95) might be closer to what we need? Also, when Brian says alignment tabs on the bellhousing, I'm pretty sure he's referring to the dowel pins that locate the tranny that protrude from the tranny mounting face of the bellhousing...if I were looking for a "tab", a 1/2" diameter dowel pin might not jump out at me, is all I'm sayin'

The Novak site is a wealth of info!

Steve

After reading a bit on the Novak site, I realized that had I used an 11" clutch, the throw needed to release the clutch is shorter, by quite a bit. The equivalent 11" would be a Luk 04072.

 

[gifu]

yeah, what he said. (now go pull your 2F and get started.)

 

[theSherpa]

man, you're hazing me worse than Erik (TornadoAlleyCruiser)!

yeah, what he said. (now go pull your 2F and get started.)

 

[Gumby]

Not much better with the 60 series p-plate. Not the way to go.

Swapped the 85+ slave for a 74 (85-). The cylinder is about 3/4 of an inch longer on the early slave. It got considerably better.

Swapped the 85+ master for the 74 and it is way better. It still drags a little. It's not perfect, but it works. I think with an adjustable rod from an early cruiser, it might be fine.

The early master seems to have a bigger bore. It has three bolts and the bulk of it sits in the engine compartment. The later master has two bolts and most of the cylinder is in the passenger compartment.

I did drill a 1" hole in the bottom of the bellhousing in order to see up there to get the damn fork on. What a PIA.

 

[mica]

Hey Gumby,

To install the early-model master cylinder, did you have to drill some extra holes in the firewall? If so, did the hole-pattern interfere with the original hole-pattern at all? I'm currently trying to decide which vintage of LC Master and Slave to run on our rig.

Thanks,

Mica

 

[Gumby]

Yes, I did have to drill the three new holes. No, they did not interfere at all. In fact, I put the upper nut back on the stud to help hold the strengthening plate in place while I drilled and just left it on there.

 

[gifu]

so... are the hydraulics not 1:1? I mean, does the bore differ between master/slave of the same year?

Gumby... i would try the adjustable rod for sure. i could never get mine right with the non-adjustable one.

also... one thing you might consider: redrilling the hole in the clutch pedal; that is, the hole through which the slave rod connects. i think as little as a 1/2" might make a huge difference. it might mean that the slave rod is coming in/out at an angle... which may or may not be a problem. just throwing another idea into the mix.

 

[mica]

Hello to everyone . . . I just thought I'd give a quick update on our clutch-issue project (I'm married to the thread-starter in-case you neglected to read this entire, rather long thread).

After much research and soul-searching, we've ordered parts to replace nearly everything clutch/transmission/transfer-case related in our '85 V8-FJ60, including (but not limited to): a used AA bellhousing (712532), centerforce clutch components (pressure plate, clutch disk), AA throw-out bearing, AA extended pilot bushing, used clutch fork and throwout-bearing-hub, new clutch master, new clutch hydraulic lines (hard and soft), used clutch pedal (yeah, ours was cut and welded to a custom, bizarre angle), new clutch slave, used adjustable slave-rod, slave return spring and perch, transfer case rebuild kit, and last (but certainly not least) a BRAND-SPANKING NEW H55F 5-SPEED TRANSMISSION! (with the 5-speed shift-lever, 5-speed shift knob, and oiler tube).

I've gotten nearly all of the parts (and yeah, it was painfully expensive . . . but it'll be WAY cool, I swear). The only hold-up now is the FSM (I don't wanna screw-up the t-case disassembly) . . . I guess the dealer I ordered from is experiencing a delay of some sort. I think I'll post another link regarding the FSM issue . . .

I'll try to get some good photos as the project progresses (I neglected to get any shots of the tranny-removal . . . oh well), . . . and I'll be sure to post again when I'm done to let everyone know how the project turned-out.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

Regards,

Mica

 

[gifu]

we've created a monster.

 

[Vitesse_6]

Ooh! and, does anyone know what this is?

I need to start a website : www.namemyLCpart.com

I'm not familar with this type of bell housing, but a guy my husband works with speculated it has to do with racing or something.

Looks like a scatter sheild to me, Its for racing & high RPM, So when the clutch explodes it dosnt take a leg with it.
My $.02