Long Travel Front Control Arms

Discussion in 'FJ Cruiser' started by Smaddox, Sep 22, 2017.

  1. Smaddox

    Smaddox

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  2. Smaddox

    Smaddox

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    Started trying to get parts for this again and ran into a few pot-holes. I've been advised it's not possible (won't sell only the LCA's) to do the l/t LCA's w/o replacing coilovers to custom buildouts, mandatory replacement of the axles, after-market UCA's, and the other misc stuff they sell with the kits.

    I swore I've seen builds where they used L/T LCA's, with after-market coilovers for the FJC (like the Icon l/t I'm running), UCA's upgrade is a must, and kept OEM axles (even if you'r better off with longer ones). Anyone?

    Totally get the why on upgrading all of it. But doing it all at once is a bit too much $$$ to drop at one time.
     
  3. firensteel

    firensteel

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    Good videos, good info. Thanks for sharing.
     
  4. NateMob

    NateMob

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    A few years back AllPro (now TrailGear) sold thier garbage LT kit with an option to bolt a large spacer to the top of your existing coilover but is obviously a terrible solution and was discontinued.

    Your "extended travel Icons" arent long travel by anymeans and wont work with any LT kit whether its a +2" or +3.5" width kits. There is also ZERO possibility of running OEM length Tacoma/4R/FJC CVs with any long travel setup, they simply arent long enough. You buy the 2" longer midshaft and have that built into the two OEM ends. Its a necessity for 4wd. It's all a designed and developed kit to work together that you really shouldn't be trying to piecemeal together.

    As someone who ran a full Total Chaos +2 Race kit for a couple years I can say 100% it wasnt worth it for the TX/NM/CO/UT trails i ran. Its cool and all for "the gram" but a can of worms that is never ending in reality.

    Please don't take this as an assumption or attack but if you can't "afford" long travel now to purchase all at once it will truly nickel and dime you to death over time. I dont know you or your finances but can say that a quality standard or extended travel setup is 90% as capable for 1/3 the $$$.


    :cheers:
     
  5. iLuveKetchup

    iLuveKetchup

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    Curious what can of worms were you continually going through? I am thinking of upgrading suspension and thinking of going straight to LT.
     
  6. firensteel

    firensteel

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    ///Curious what can of worms were you continually going through? I am thinking of upgrading suspension and thinking of going straight to LT.///

    Got to also ask the question, how far down that road of LT front suspension before exploring SAS? Just wondering. I have seen a few SAS FJ's here and think they are probably going to be offf road only....but???? Anyone?
    SAS done right is still a bit iffy at freeway speeds, fine offroad but for me that off road experience is 2 or 3 weekend days each month compared to 200miles a week on the blacktop. Just thinking out loud.
     
  7. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    One of the issues is the way tierods are handled with long travel setups. So imagine your wheels are now 2-3" further away from the steering rack tierods. The solution most employ is a threaded connector between the outer and inner rods. That much more length in a skinny tierod is a PITA for alignment and a weaker link when pushing the limits offroad. If someone could figure out a stronger tierod system, it would save a lot of the headaches of long travel, but them you'd probably blow through more steering racks.

    And you now have "custom" CV axle assemblies that require much more time to replace when you break them - unless you have the bank and space to carry around full size spares.
     
  8. Firemedic831

    Firemedic831

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    Marlin Crawler is working on the MarRack . hopefully it becomes available soon
     
  9. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Yeah, I've been saying for a while, it would be cool if someone could make a Tundra steering rack fit the FJC. I'm eager to see what their final product looks like and how much it will cost.
     
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  10. NateMob

    NateMob

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    Few things we need to get into here. And this is what i experienced, if you're made of money and have people work on and maintain your rig you probably wouldnt feel the same about the same things. Save your breath with the "WeLl mInE dOeSn'T mAkE NoIsE", thank the Good Lord and I hope your luck continues.

    1. Spare CVs are no longer free from a buddy or 80 bucks at NAPA. $$$ just to have functional 4wd.

    2. Uniballs click, squeek, creak, and moan. Incessently. My usage was in the desert and Rocky Mountains, far from rough (salty and wet NE type weather) conditions but even premium (FK) ends and uniballs never last more than 15-20k. That was one year for me.

    3. Polyurethane squeeks and erodes no matter what grease and lube is used, dirt and sand are introduced the first trip out and it starts its decline, the poly in my lowers were junk and had to be replaced after 20k of usage.

    4. Limit Straps, they stretch. Just something else to adjust and is required to be dialed in with LT unless you want to bind and explode CVs.

    5. Cam Tab Gussets, from Total Chaos they say this is a 6-8hour job by someone experienced. Grinding and welding, my profession but i hate doing this job.

    6. Alignments, good luck getting an alignment from someone when they see you've completely changed your suspension out. MOST of those clowns can barely do a spacer lifted FJC, watch their head spin when they see your LT as they turn you away. Good luck keeping that alignment with all the extra force/leverage even with Cam Gussets

    7. Get ready to throw $2k at the rear to try and get it up to the same level as the front. Running a LT front(Howitzer) with a 2.0 rear(Red Rider) gets old quick.

    8. Wheel Spacers. Love em or Hate em, you're going to want a set for the rear axle to make up for the track with disparity after going LT on the front.

    9. Like BMT said, the steering on the Tacoma/4Runner/FJC isn't known for its stoutness. Again, more leverage equals more rack carnage.

    10. A properly done ($$$$$) SAS is anything but iffy on or offroad. It's different but not much different than running around without swaybars and in emergency situations.

    I basically like balljoints and rubber bushings for their long life, maintenance interval and ease, their NVH (noise,vibration,harchness) characteristics, and cheaper cost. Again, my thoughts and feelings. I installed another Total Chaos +2 Race kit yesterday for my buddy and the install went smooth and he's happy. TC has improved their instructions since i did mine back in 2015.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
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  11. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Spot-on @NateMob

    I've said it in this section before, put racing quality parts on your rig, expect to put in racing-interval maintenance.

    My local Toyota Truck/Cruiser garage will tell anyone that is considering SAS that it costs $25K PLUS parts, no if-ands-buts.
     
  12. firensteel

    firensteel

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    ///My local Toyota Truck/Cruiser garage will tell anyone that is considering SAS that it costs $25K PLUS parts, no if-ands-buts.///
    Good grief thats high. We have several non-dealers here doing those SAS swaps for a lot less. Not something I am interested in for my truck.
     
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