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Long Travel Front Control Arms

Discussion in 'FJ Cruiser' started by Smaddox, Sep 22, 2017.

  1. Smaddox

    Smaddox

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    Who has installed a long travel control arm setup on their FJC? I'm researching the different ones out there but have not seen many FJCs actually running any.

    The ones I've looked at are from All-Pro, Chaos Fabrication, Camburg, and Dirt King. I'm leaning towards All-Pro setup right now. It's got more downward travel with their 2 inch arms than Chaos has with their 2.5 inch arms. At least on the provided specs. The other setups are 3.5 inch arms and I'm not real excited about how far out those put my tires.

    Any input from people running a long travel setup would be appreciated!
     
  2. ttFJC

    ttFJC

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    just make sure that if you order all pro that you verify the contents when they arrive. "new guy in shipping"
     
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  3. Smaddox

    Smaddox

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    He'll have at least a week or two to get up to speed before needing to ship me anything ;)
     
  4. ttFJC

    ttFJC

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    It was kind of a funny story. i ordered a couple of skip plates and when they came and i was like...there is no way they fit them both in that box. So i opened it and sure enough it was half the order. So i called and asked there are two boxes right? And the nice lady on the phone said something along the lines of UGH, not again! New guy in shipping...Which ones do you need front or back...ok there on their way by the end of the day. She didn't really verify anything other then my name to look up the order.
     
  5. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I'm pretty sure Steve Springs (owner of SE Overland) has been running TC long travel on his FJC for a number of years. Might be a good resource. Home | Southeast Overland
     
  6. mattv94

    mattv94

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    @lgrt has ran TC's LT kit for awhile now.

    If you want a taste of LT without the cost ditch the front sway bar :)
     
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  7. ttFJC

    ttFJC

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    how does this affect the highway ride.. losts of curvy paved roads around here and one reason i like the FJC is that i can go 85 down the highway
     
  8. mattv94

    mattv94

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    As long as your suspension is firm enough it'll be fine.

    I'm running 33" STT Pros, OME light, and sans sway bar. The body roll is about on par with stock.
     
  9. ttFJC

    ttFJC

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    yeah i better stay away from this idea. ive got like 200 pounds on my roof and 3 inch toytec lift. i definitely feel the weight up top.

    but its fun three wheeling !
     
  10. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I've been sans sway bar on the front since 2008. No worries.
     
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  11. lgrt

    lgrt

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    I've had TC's 2" long travel kit since it first came out... literally the third one ever sold. The TC Long Travel is great... on and off road. The ride on the street is firm and crisp... it's not a sports car but it is sporty without being harsh. off road it's hard to beat regardless of how you wheel. Only thing... you will notice that your rear end cannot seem to keep up with the new and improved front end. may want to also consider Metal Tech 4x4 rear long travel for fj cruiser.

    a couple of videos on the Total Chaos Long Travel for FJ Cruiser



     
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  12. Smaddox

    Smaddox

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    Good info! thanks for the videos.

    Has anyone had experience with the All-Pro setup? It's between that and TC right now.

    Also, anyone know of an L/T heavy load coilspring for the front? I'm partial to Icon, but have not seen the combo. Was thinking of dual shocks for it.
     
  13. NyNomad

    NyNomad

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    when I'm not financially challenged ill more than likely be getting T/C or Camburg.. with Fox or King,.. not a fan of icon
     
  14. ttFJC

    ttFJC

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    Are the cv axels stronger then factory for the long travel set ups?
     
  15. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    No first hand experience, but my understanding is that you disassemble the factory CV assemblies and replace only the shaft for a longer one. The outer "birfs" and "skateboard wheels" get installed on a longer shaft. You also have to extend the tie rods. More length doesn't necessarily transfer into more strength. Tie rods are one of the most vulnerable components when really testing your suspension on trails. Adding an extension to them makes them that much more vulnerable unless you use a beefier aftermarket tie rod.

    Edit for link: http://www.chaosfab.com/PDF/install/accessories/86305.pdf
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2017
  16. mattv94

    mattv94

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    I know a guy using Lotus CVs with his 2" LT setup and 37"s

    FJ Cruiser, 4th & 5th Gen 4Runner, 2nd Gen Tacoma, 1st Gen Lexus GX470 - Single Chromoly Caged Axle



    With regard to 2" kits I'm fairly certain All Pro has their setup utilizing a wee bit more shock travel than TC's. Not sure what that correlates to wheel travel wise.


    It's a topic for another thread but I'd like to get the ball rolling on compiling shock build sheets for various setups. I'm especially curious about Icon's off the shelf secondary shocks.
     
  17. ttFJC

    ttFJC

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    these are interesting..everyday i look at the fj and think it would look better with 35's on it instead of the 33s i have. but everywhere i hear that if you regear and go locked up front you just start to break CVs. And 33s and skid plates will do 95% of the trails anyways...with less risk of breakage..
     
  18. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I've only had my locker a short time, but I'm running 315/75/16 (34.6") BFG KO2s. My advice is to use the front locker as a last resort and not as a standard off-road technique. I find that A-trac works 98% of the time I need it to. The small clamshell differential is just not designed for the kind of forces fully locked front wheels (mayhap in a bind) can put on it.

    By adding bomb-proof CV assemblies, you are guaranteeing that you will grenade a diff sooner rather than later.
     
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  19. 1911

    1911 chupacabra SILVER Star

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    Mine has been re-geared, 34" tires, and an ARB locker up front for a long time now. I have never broken a CV on mine, they're still factory original with over 180,000 hard miles on them.

    I have however replaced a number of CV's for other FJC's on various trails. Not sure how to say this without hurting some feelings and stirring things up, but the semi-obvious truth to me is this: the great majority of broken FJC front cv's (and rear diff ring gears for that matter) that I have seen are due to the driver trying to power through an obstacle rather than learn/use good 4WD technique. The 1GR-FE and its successor puts out plenty of power for 4WD situations; too much for some people and for CV joints if misused. There is a reason that the old F-series engines made gobs of torque at low rpm but only put out 135 hp. But today, a 4WD truck must be capable of modern interstate speeds in air-conditioned comfort, so all the newer motors have good hp at the expense of low-end torque.

    The answer is exactly as Rick has said; you must learn to use the front locker as a specialized tool to be used only in certain situations. Example: when you're climbing steep rock ledges straight-on, and you won't have to turn the wheels, the front locker is like an Easy button. On the other hand, if you're in a situation where you're having to turn the wheels for whatever reason while you power through with the locker on, you're going to blow up a cv if that wheel gets bound up in any fashion.
     
  20. Smaddox

    Smaddox

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    I'm also running 35s with no issues other than replacing tie rod ends and ball joints that already had 115k on them. Biggest "issue" I can think of is having to chop body mounts. But imo 35s take it to a much desired off-road look. But I do feel like my travel has suffered. Hence the thread.