As of late my bj60 is taking unusally long period of time "five seconds at least" trying to start. It wont even try to fire on one cylinder in this time period. After it does start it runs rough for 3 seconds with a larger armound of blue or white smoke comming out of the tail pipe. It is now getting pretty warm so the cold should not be a issue. This event occures after the glow plug light goes out. I have replaced all glow plugs. I did install my WVO home made kit but have yet to use it. What could be causing this issue? It is more of a sudden then occationally condition that has occured. Cranking speed and the audiable start compression test sounds normal with no speed up or drop in the start rpm test.
long start times
- Thread starter haryv
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Can you give us more detail on what was done with the veggie conversion? Possible air leak in fuel line? What fuel are you running now?
My first guess would be the glow plugs since what you describe is exactly what happened to me at the end of last summer, even when it was warm. Even if you've replaced the plugs there's more to that system than just them, so I would check for continuity to the plugs and make sure the relays are all functioning properly. You could have nice fresh plugs but if they aren't getting the juice they won't help.
HTH
B
My first guess would be the glow plugs since what you describe is exactly what happened to me at the end of last summer, even when it was warm. Even if you've replaced the plugs there's more to that system than just them, so I would check for continuity to the plugs and make sure the relays are all functioning properly. You could have nice fresh plugs but if they aren't getting the juice they won't help.
HTH
B
- Thread starter
- #3
I am not running or have used my system so its not a part of the equasion. I can probebly say that during the install I did remove a vacume line from the base of the throttle body to the IP and when reinstalling I pushed the line back into the base of the throttle body and it was not tight. Its possible that air is leaking into the line and causing this long start time?
I will check the continuity of course. The engine gradualy has been getting longer to start with one cylinder firing and the engine thumping along untill all are firing. So I figured just replace the glow polugs since I did not know the previos history of the last glow plug install. I will check the start voltage of the blug rail to see what it is.
I will check the continuity of course. The engine gradualy has been getting longer to start with one cylinder firing and the engine thumping along untill all are firing. So I figured just replace the glow polugs since I did not know the previos history of the last glow plug install. I will check the start voltage of the blug rail to see what it is.
check the busbar for voltage.
check the edic arm moves to over-inject right away when the starter is engaged.
the lines on the throttle body to IP are sense lines for the throttle. They need to be tight and secure.
When was the filter last replaced? Might be be getting restricted????
check the edic arm moves to over-inject right away when the starter is engaged.
the lines on the throttle body to IP are sense lines for the throttle. They need to be tight and secure.
When was the filter last replaced? Might be be getting restricted????
- Thread starter
- #6
voltage on buss bar is...
Thankfully my wife had enough patients just to turn the iginition over and then wait while I took off the buss bar to see what the no load voltage was. It was tested and put the bar back on. The voltages are 8.9 volts and 12 volts with the glow plug light on and off.
I checked that line and it was tight.
Also, just went outside and checked the EDIC arm for movement during the start phase. The arm pulled all the way back for starting and half way forward for run operation. Once the engine was turned off it moved all the way forward and stopped. The engine this time took 1-2 seconds to start instead of 10 or more seconds. The vehicle had not been run in two hours.
I have not checked the fuel filter. Replaced it about two months ago.
Thankfully my wife had enough patients just to turn the iginition over and then wait while I took off the buss bar to see what the no load voltage was. It was tested and put the bar back on. The voltages are 8.9 volts and 12 volts with the glow plug light on and off.
I checked that line and it was tight.
Also, just went outside and checked the EDIC arm for movement during the start phase. The arm pulled all the way back for starting and half way forward for run operation. Once the engine was turned off it moved all the way forward and stopped. The engine this time took 1-2 seconds to start instead of 10 or more seconds. The vehicle had not been run in two hours.
I have not checked the fuel filter. Replaced it about two months ago.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2004
- Threads
- 49
- Messages
- 312
- Location
- Jackson Hole, Wyoming
- Website
- www.longestroad.com
This I will follow with great interest as I am having the same problem in my HJ60. I do have replaced the glow plugs, checked votage, and EDIC. I have noticed that the glow plugs don't glow for very long, i.e. the light goes off after only three-five seconds. I think I will try installing a "wilson" switch. I have to add, bad compression can cause this problem too. I just went through that on an old diesel snowblower I had. However, I think that we would be seeing problems like oil consumption and I am not. Best of luck. How about flipping the glow plug and test firing it and seeing if it is getting just warm, or trully hot enough to kick the truck into action.
oh okay then.
So you have fuel, you have voltage and changed the plugs lately. It should start fine then.
It could be air in the system..... Which is a lot harder to discover. If you buy some clear line, you could put in a couple places temporary and see if you see bubbles. Like on the nozzle return line, and from the hardline from the tank to the iP.
while it doesn't sound like this is the entire problem- check your ground connection from the motor to the battery.
Or just add another wire from the motor to the battery.
I just added an extra ground last night, and cleaned the posts on the batt-- it went from "turning over for 30 seconds" to "fires up like on On-switch" didn't change anything else at all.
Or just add another wire from the motor to the battery.
I just added an extra ground last night, and cleaned the posts on the batt-- it went from "turning over for 30 seconds" to "fires up like on On-switch" didn't change anything else at all.
Also Harvy, you could use your meter and check the resistance in ground wires to the battery post, or chassis. There should be no resistance.
Try checking between the engine and the neg post. Should be 0 ohms.
Try checking between the engine and the neg post. Should be 0 ohms.
I have been having issues with my truck starting as well, I know I should do the "wilson switch" set-up but I am one of those people that likes to know what's wrong before replacing stuff.
Here's my 2 cents: just for fun check the impedance on the new glow plugs (you never know - with the bus bar disconnected from them).
I noticed an improvement once I replaced the fuel feed pump (the one you use to do a manual pump). There was a fuel leak there and I guess oxygen was getting in while it sat. You may have a small leak somewhere else in the system as well. When is the last time you drained your fuel/water separator?
In my case I have been over everything, the timer outputs properly, when you unplug the water temp sensor there is no difference - hey you can try that.
Here's my 2 cents: just for fun check the impedance on the new glow plugs (you never know - with the bus bar disconnected from them).
I noticed an improvement once I replaced the fuel feed pump (the one you use to do a manual pump). There was a fuel leak there and I guess oxygen was getting in while it sat. You may have a small leak somewhere else in the system as well. When is the last time you drained your fuel/water separator?
In my case I have been over everything, the timer outputs properly, when you unplug the water temp sensor there is no difference - hey you can try that.
- Thread starter
- #12
I will check with my trusty fluke meter. It has started better today but with alot of white smoke and some blue smoke. Now, I have never asked this but why is it that cruisers with some older engines emit the white smoke? Is that injectors leaking over night and pudeling fuel inside the cyliners? I know blue smoke that occures in the morning and stops after warm up is from hardned and worn out valve steam seals. Is this also a possibe cuuse in these cruisers?
Lastly,
I am looking for a lift pump for my veggie oil. Anyone know of one that has worked sucsessfully for oil?
Lastly,
I am looking for a lift pump for my veggie oil. Anyone know of one that has worked sucsessfully for oil?
My best guess would be leaking injectors or one or more bad glow plugs. Both are fairly common. Sometimes a glow plug relay will be faulty. That will give you white smoke and hard starting.
not only old engines puff white, I had a new TDI VW and it also did this. To me it's just unburnt fuel in a cold engine. When one or two glowplugs are bad you get a whole lot more white.
Bluish could be a little oil from the valves like you say. But unburnt fuel can also look a little bluish sometimes too.
A little puff no worries.
Bluish could be a little oil from the valves like you say. But unburnt fuel can also look a little bluish sometimes too.
A little puff no worries.
i am not an expert , but white smoke- i would lean towards the diapraghm .
when i bought my cruiser the previous owner had to cycle the key on and off for about two to three minutes before trying to start it because the glow plug timer had packed it in .
i tapped into the super glow circuit under the driver side kick pannel and did the wilson switch - problem solved <$30
you can easily check if this is your problem , the solenoid is on the drivers side inner fender run a jumper from the battery positive to energise the glow relay ( solenoid ) let it stay on for twenty to thirty seconds try to start your truck , if it fires right away , your glow timer is shot and a wilson switch is in order .
when i bought my cruiser the previous owner had to cycle the key on and off for about two to three minutes before trying to start it because the glow plug timer had packed it in .
i tapped into the super glow circuit under the driver side kick pannel and did the wilson switch - problem solved <$30
you can easily check if this is your problem , the solenoid is on the drivers side inner fender run a jumper from the battery positive to energise the glow relay ( solenoid ) let it stay on for twenty to thirty seconds try to start your truck , if it fires right away , your glow timer is shot and a wilson switch is in order .
- Thread starter
- #16
Its possible its leaking injectors but also glow plug relay. I have the repair manual and can bypass it and see if that is the issue. It is still taking a LONG time in this warm spring day to start it. I will replace the fuel filter today and also try bypassing the glowplug relay and see if that is the issue.
you could also try using one lead off a jumper cable direct to the busbar from the battery. thats the easiest bypass. careful the glows draw upwards of 80 amps right at the start, so you might get some good sparks if you don't be firm about attaching the cable.
Has anybody mentioned compression?? You have fuel, air and juice to the glow plugs, the only thing left is poor compression...
My brothers HJ60 has low compresion and cranks for about 5-7 seconds and I have a friend that just turbo'd his truck (at 4000 000) which resulted in poor compression, long starts and a rebuild.
My brothers HJ60 has low compresion and cranks for about 5-7 seconds and I have a friend that just turbo'd his truck (at 4000 000) which resulted in poor compression, long starts and a rebuild.
and no one has mentioned timing yet, either. If your IP is not timed right (getting old, injectors getting worn, weak delivery valves etc...) then a little extra cranking can result.
If you test your glow plugs, be sure to GLOW test them. Also, make sure that you have the correct voltage units in there and that you changed them all at the same time.
~John
If you test your glow plugs, be sure to GLOW test them. Also, make sure that you have the correct voltage units in there and that you changed them all at the same time.
~John
- Thread starter
- #20
Actually this was more of a issue where the start time went from 1-2 second starts to 10-15 second starts within a day or so. Did not have time to look at it today. I will put a wire from the battery to the buss bar tomarro to see if that make a big difference. Last summer the engine starts up right away when the engines tempature was dead cold. So the glow plugs probebly even then did not have enough time to get hot before it started. Thankfully I have good batteries 
ohh I never did mention that the valves have not been adjusted since I have owned it and it really sounds like it is way overdue to have them adjusted. Thay are definatly noticable when running the engine. What is the cold/warm adjustment measuments for these?
ohh I never did mention that the valves have not been adjusted since I have owned it and it really sounds like it is way overdue to have them adjusted. Thay are definatly noticable when running the engine. What is the cold/warm adjustment measuments for these?