Local shop (1 Viewer)

[Riad]

This may/may not have been discussed before. Can you rent a local shop with tools and lift to do your own work around here? It would be nice to have that around. So in a bad weather day members/people could go to this certain place to get their work done, on their own or in a team effort. I hear people don't do this for liability issues or that may put all the other proffesional shops out of business . Anyway, does such facility exist around here? If not, did you guys ever thought of doing this?

 

[Felix]

I don't know of any rental shops, but Lance at Iron Pig has offered to let us come down and use a lift in his shop for a Tech Day. That would have to be scheduled well in advance, though.

Also, a couple guys in the club are military and can signout the use of a bay in the auto shop at Ft. Belvior. I don't know if they're allowed to do that for a friend's truck, though.

Felix

 

[Riad]

Cool, so it does exist to a certain extent. I have been to Quatico base, about 4+ years ago. We had a mod day from the (Nissan) club I used to be part of and one of the guys arranged for number us to go in there and use the lifts and stuff. That was cool but it was a HIKE to get there. I guess I could say the same for Fredricksburg, but a tech day, planned in advance would do the job, depending upon the job. I wish there was a shop near by around here at Alexandria, Fairfax or Gaithersburg, Rockville area. Maybe someday....

Thanks

 

[Blue77FJ40]

All I know are people's houses/garages. John has a nice garage... and I thought he has volunteered to host a tech day - so maybe that's a possible option. John?

I have no garage, but do have a nice long driveway. Depending on the task if it's a quick job, that's a possiblity.

 

[John Smith]

Dan speaks the truth. Once the weather gets warmer and I clean up my garage I am going to have some tech days this year at my place. What project were you wanting to undertake?

 

[Rosscanup]

I can get people on Belvior or Andrews to use the Auto Shops there but it's limited to the number of people you can get in without miltary IDs. They have to be escourted.

 

[Riad]

I was thinking of replacing the engine main and front oil seal, at least for now. Since those seals are out of spec and definitely keep my truck's underbelly greasy. Can that be done at your place John? But at a macro level, it is very convenient to have a place where folks (members) can go and do there own work, with at least a lift and in best case with tools, I have got all the power/ non-power tools. I'd pay for it too.

 

[John Smith]

I know nothing about the 80 series engines but I would say that a rear main seal replacement is not something I am willing to undertake on an 80 series be it tech day or not. Sorry, but that job would be a nightmare without a lift. It is hard enough to pull the tranny/transfer combo from a lifted 40. Have you been able to track the leak down to the source? You may find it is something much easier like a oil pan gasket or something. I have no idea how difficult it is to do the front main on a 80 series but that may be doable. Perhaps a 80s series owner will post up and let us know.

 

[fjman]

Before you go ahead w/ replacing the rear seal, make sure the engine side cover gasket is okay. I was told my rear seal was bad and leaky but recently I realized its probably just the side cover... I think the 80 series have one just like the 60s (I think!)

 

[76LC]

I can get people on Belvior or Andrews to use the Auto Shops there but it's limited to the number of people you can get in without miltary IDs. They have to be escourted.

Ross, I can escort people on Andrews also.

 

[Riad]

Well, I have concluded that my front oil seal has more leak so I can handle that myself. The rear main should be fine for a while. What I would like to get done though is the head gaskett . Maybe we can do this in a joint effort. I am sure at least one of us here with an 80 needs a new HG. So what do ya'll think? Can this be done in a tech day? Ofcourse when the weather is at least 70+ outside.

 

[John Smith]

The head gasket sounds like quite a job. Only 9.9 shop hours and 126 steps.

1FZ-FE Engine
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery and the battery tray.
Drain the engine coolant.
Remove the air cleaner hose and cap.
Disconnect the cruise control actuator cable from the throttle body.

Fig. 15: Exploded view of the cylinder head components — 1FZ-FE engine




Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body.
Disconnect the engine ground strap from the engine hanger and the ground strap from the air intake chamber.
Unplug the connector on the intake manifold from the left fender apron.
Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose.
Disconnect the EVAP hose and disconnect the fuel return hose.
Disconnect the heater hoses.
Disconnect the engine wire and heater valve from the cowl panel.
Remove the cylinder head covers
Remove the distributor.
Disconnect the power steering reservoir tank.
Disconnect the radiator inlet hose and the water bypass hose.
Remove the alternator.
Remove the throttle body.
Remove the oil dipsticks and guides for the engine and transmission.
Remove the intake manifold stay.
Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the fuel filter.
Unplug the following connectors:
ECT sender gauge connector, the ECT cut switch connector, and the ECT sensor connector
Knock sensor connector
Crankshaft position sensor connector
Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine wire harness from the cylinder block.
Disconnect the following:
Oil level sensor connector
Two connectors from the transmission
Starter connector
Two heated oxygen sensor connectors
Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch connector
Remove the two bolts and disconnect the engine wire from the intake manifold and the cylinder block
Disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve
Remove the bolt holding the engine wire to the intake manifold
Unplug the connector for the emission control valve set assembly and the three injector connectors
Disconnect the engine wire harness clamp
Disconnect the EGR gas temperature sensor connector
Disconnect the clamp of the No. 6 injector wire from the bracket
Disconnect the engine wire harness from the cylinder head and the intake manifold
Remove the three bolts and disconnect the water bypass pipe from the cylinder head.
Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor connector.
Remove the nuts and bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the rear TWC.
Disconnect the front exhaust pipe and remove the gasket.
Remove the clamp from the support bracket and remove the bracket.
Remove the front exhaust pipe and the gaskets.
Remove the exhaust manifolds.
Remove the heat insulators.
Remove the ground cable, heater pipe and gasket.

Fig. 16: The ground cable is secured to the front of the heater pipe — 1FZ-FE engine




Remove the water bypass outlet and the pipe. Remove the three O-rings from the water bypass outlet and the pipe.
Remove the valve cover.
Remove the semi–circular plug from the cylinder head.
Remove the spark plugs.
Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke as follows:

Fig. 17: Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the 0 mark on the timing chain cover — 1FZ-FE engine



Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the 0 mark on the timing chain cover.
Check that the timing marks (one and two dots) of the camshaft drive and driven gears are in straight line on the cylinder head surface. If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360 degrees) and align the marks as above.

Fig. 18: Check that the marks on the camshaft pulley are aligned — 1FZ-FE engine




Remove the chain tensioner.
Place matchmarks on the camshaft timing gear and the timing chain.

Fig. 19: Matchmark the position of the chain on the gear — 1FZ-FE engine




Hold the intake camshaft with a wrench and remove the bolt and the distributor gear.
Remove the camshaft timing gear and chain from the intake camshaft and leave on the slipper and the damper.
Remove the camshafts.
WARNING
Do not pry on or attempt to force the camshaft with a tool or any other object.


Fig. 20: Remove these two bolts prior to the rest of the head bolts — 1FZ-FE engine




Fig. 21: Uniformly loosen and remove the 14 head bolts in several passes — 1FZ-FE engine




Remove the two bolts in the front of the head first.
Loosen and remove the 14 cylinder head bolts in sequence using several passes.
WARNING
Cylinder head warpage or cracking could result from removing bolts in incorrect order.


Lift the cylinder head from the dowels on the cylinder block and place the cylinder head on wooden blocks on the bench. If the cylinder head is difficult to lift off, pry between the cylinder head and the cylinder block with a flat prying tool.
Remove the alternator bracket.
Remove the two nuts, the water outlet, and the gasket.
Loosen the union nut and remove the EGR pipe and gasket.
Remove the heater inlet pipe and hose.
Remove the air intake chamber and the intake manifold assembly.
Remove the water bypass hose.
Remove the engine hanger brackets.
Remove the two engine wire clamp brackets.
Remove the accelerator cable bracket and the throttle cable bracket.
Remove the valve lifters and shims. Arrange the valve lifters and shims in correct order for reinstallation.
To install:

Clean all parts well. Cylinder head rebuilding is best left to professionals. The head should be cleaned and inspected before installation. More information is available in the Engine Reconditioning section.
NOTE: The head bolts used in this engine are designed to stretch and deform slightly. They should be carefully inspected. New service replacement head bolts are strongly recommended.


Install the valve lifters and shims. Check to make sure that the valve lifter rotates smoothly by hand.
Install the accelerator cable bracket and the throttle cable bracket.
Install the engine wire clamp brackets.
Install the engine hangers. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
Install the air intake chamber and intake manifold assembly.
Install the heater hose to the cylinder head, and connect the pipe to the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Temporarily install the union nut to the EGR valve. Install the EGR pipe to the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Tighten the union nut to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Install a new gasket and the water outlet. Tighten the nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Install the alternator bracket and tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Apply sealant on the end of the engine block by the timing belt.
Install a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.
Install the cylinder head.
Install the cylinder head bolts as follows:
The cylinder head bolts are tightened in three progressive steps. Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the cylinder head bolts.
Install the 14 cylinder head bolts and tighten progressively in sequence to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Use the reverse of the loosening sequence.
Mark the front of the cylinder head bolt head with paint.
Retighten the cylinder head bolts by 90 degrees in numerical order.
Retighten the cylinder head bolts an additional 90 degrees so that the painted mark is now facing to the rear.
WARNING
Do not combine steps D and E in one pass; the above steps must be followed exactly and in order to prevent cylinder head damage or pre-mature gasket failure.


Install and tighten the two bolts at the front of the head to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Install the camshafts.
Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke. Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the timing mark 0 of the timing chain cover. Turn the camshaft so that the timing marks with one and two dots will be in straight line on the cylinder head surface.
Install the camshaft timing gear as follows:
Check that the matchmarks on the camshaft timing gear and the timing chain are aligned. Place the gear over the straight pin of the intake camshaft.
Align the straight pin of the distributor gear with the straight pin groove of the intake camshaft gear.
Hold the intake camshaft with a wrench, install and tighten the bolt to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
Install the chain tensioner. Push the tensioner by hand until it touches the head installation surface, then install and tighten the two nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the timing mark 0 of the timing chain cover. Always turn the crankshaft clockwise. Check that the timing marks (one and two dots) of the camshaft drive and driven gears are in straight line on the cylinder head surface. If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360 degrees) and align the marks.
Check valve clearance and adjust if necessary.
Install the spark plugs.
Install the semi-circular plug to the cylinder head.
Make sure that the No. 1 cylinder is in TDC of the compression stroke.
Install the valve cover.
Install the water bypass outlet and the pipe as flows:
Install a new O-ring to the water bypass outlet. Install new O-rings to the water bypass pipe.
Assemble the water bypass outlet and the pipe and install with the two bolts tightened to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Install the heater pipe and the ground cable. Tighten the heater pipe bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Install the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
Install the insulator and heat insulator and tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Install the front exhaust pipe. Tighten the nuts to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
Install the support bracket and tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
Connect the clamp and tighten the clamp bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Connect the front exhaust pipe to the rear catalytic converter and tighten the bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (46 Nm).
Connect the water bypass pipe to the cylinder head and tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Connect the following:
Connect the engine wire harness to the cylinder head and the intake manifold
Connect the clamp of the No. 6 injector wire to the bracket
Connect the EGR gas temperature sensor connector
Connect the engine wire harness clamp
Attach the connector for the emission control valve set assembly and the three injector connectors
Install the bolt holding the engine wire to the intake manifold
Connect the PCV hose from the PCV valve
Install the two bolts and connect the engine wire to the intake manifold and the cylinder block
Connect the Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch connector
Connect the two heated oxygen sensor connectors
Starter connector
Two connectors to the transmission
Oil level sensor connector
Install the bolt and connect the engine wire harness from the cylinder block.
Engage the following connectors:
ECT sender gauge connector, the ECT cut switch connector, and the ECT sensor connector
Knock sensor connector
Crankshaft position sensor connector
Connect the fuel inlet hose to the fuel filter with the union bolt. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
Install the intake manifold stay and tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
Install the oil dipsticks and the guides for the engine and the transmission. Tighten the oil dipstick guide bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Install the throttle body.
Install the alternator and the drive belts.
Connect the water bypass hose.
Connect the radiator inlet hose.
Connect the power steering reservoir tank and tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Install the distributor.
Install the cylinder head covers.
Connect the heater valve and the engine wire harness to the cowl panel.
Connect the heater hoses.
Connect the fuel return hose, the EVAP hose, and the brake booster vacuum hose.
Attach the connector on the intake manifold to the left fender apron.
Connect the ground strap to the engine hanger and the air intake chamber.
Attach the throttle cable to the throttle body. Adjust the throttle cable.
Connect the accelerator cable to the throttle body.
Connect the cruise control actuator cable to the throttle body.
Install the air cleaner hose and cap.
Install the battery tray, the battery, and connect the cables.
Refill the engine coolant.
Because coolant can contaminate the oil system when a cylinder head is removed, drain and refill the engine oil. A filter change is recommended.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Make necessary engine adjustments.
Road test the vehicle and recheck the engine coolant level.

 

[Riad]

Well thanks John . I've got the DVD coming in the mail. I will let you know if some of these steps can be eliminated (at all). BTW: I don't see any pictures