List-O-Priorities vs resurfacing cylinder head

[gnavarroo]

So i've been patiently waiting for parts and the time to come along when I can finally put my exhaust manifold back together to put it back in the cruiser. Mean while this time has aforded me the opportunity to come up with a list of priorities:

I. ENGINE:

1. Exhaust (#1 just because that's where I'm at right now)

2. Carburator: possibly replacing or rebuilding

3. Cooling system: getting radiator patched up/cored, replacing thermo, water pump, hoses... etc.

4. smog pump: replacing

5. Power stearing: tightens up, makes a lot of noise at low RPM... May need replacing or just a good flush and the REAL stuff (ATF) put in it, who knows what's in it now... I like the fab softener idea that some one suggested...

II. TRANSMISSION (main, differentials, T-case)

1. New main seals/fluid

2. New T-case seals/ fluid

3. New U-joints all around

This is the break down according to ME! this is what I think might be important...
I was wondering what the process/procedure for resurfacing the cylinder heads is? What else might I as well do at this point?
I dropped this idea by a buddy of mine and he says that If i'm looking to resurface cylinder head I may as well replace rings and some other things that I can't remember...
Where In my priority list should resurfacing cyl. head & all that need to be replaced lie?

Anyone? Any suggestions would be much appreciated
TIA

GN

 

[tonkota]

I dropped this idea by a buddy of mine and he says that If i'm looking to resurface cylinder head I may as well replace rings and some other things that I can't remember...
Where In my priority list should resurfacing cyl. head & all that need to be replaced lie?

Anyone? Any suggestions would be much appreciated
TIA

GN

And if you are going to take the pistons out, may as well replace the crank and rod bearings.

If the engine isn't coming all the way out, I'd leave the pistons in. I don't know the whole story, but is there something wrong with your head?

Your list looks good. But it's my experience that one thing leads to another. And the list will grow and grow.

 

[gnavarroo]

Head Gasket: Requires machining?

And if you are going to take the pistons out, may as well replace the crank and rod bearings.

If the engine isn't coming all the way out, I'd leave the pistons in. I don't know the whole story, but is there something wrong with your head?

Your list looks good. But it's my experience that one thing leads to another. And the list will grow and grow.

No, the engine isn't coming all the way out... I was just thinking that resurfacing the head would be a good thing to do. Can you get away with just resurfacing? What needs to be replaced when you do that job? And can it be done with out pulling the engine?
I guess I'm really concerned with the amount of oil that seems to have leaked out from between the seal. I knew it was leaking oil but when I took the manifold off... Oh'grief, man. I'm wondering if I can just replace the head gasket? would it be worth doing? The story is that I've owned the car for 3 years now but haven't driven it enough or pobed around to discover ALL of the bugs... The list above may only be scrating the surface... believe you me, I know how lists tend to grow and grow!

 

[cruiser_guy]

Maybe give an explaination of what exactly is happening and then we can give you some ideas! Personally, I don't resurface the head "just because". There HAS to be a reason! For me that would be a leaky head gasket caused by a warped head. If there is oil in the exhaust you need to determine if it is rings or valve seals. A leakdown test can help you with that. If the leakdown test determines that the valve seals are bad pull the seals and replace (you likely need to pull the head for that but some folks seem to be able to do it without pulling the head). If, on the other hand, the leakdown test determines it's rings then your bill just went way up! You will be pulling and rebuilding the engine or finding a replacement.

As for the rest of your list, repair or replace parts as they fail. Why replace functioning parts? I travel from Guatemala City in Central America to Canada and back each year and I only replace parts that are failing. I also carry spare belts, hoses, a "U" joint a selection of seals and other consumables. If I am concerned about some particular part then I might buy a spare but if it shows ANY sign of failure it gets replaced.

 

[tonkota]

If the head gasket is leaky, get a new OEM head gasket and have the head milled true. And since it will be out, have the shop (or you could do it) give it a valve job and replace the valve stem seals. I think that if you call Cdan he has a "head job gasket set".

I would take a look at the wheel bearings in the front hubs. They are easy to re-pack and often people over look them.

Flush the PS pump like this:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1272091.html

When you do this, get a piece of old hose that is long enough to run down to the ground level and put a coffee can there to catch all that oil. You will avoid a large mess.

My pump was making noise and I used this method and now it is quiet again. I replaced with synthetic ATF since it is less than a quart.

Good luck.

 

[gnavarroo]

Maybe give an explaination of what exactly is happening and then we can give you some ideas! Personally, I don't resurface the head "just because". There HAS to be a reason! For me that would be a leaky head gasket caused by a warped head. If there is oil in the exhaust you need to determine if it is rings or valve seals. A leakdown test can help you with that. If the leakdown test determines that the valve seals are bad pull the seals and replace (you likely need to pull the head for that but some folks seem to be able to do it without pulling the head). If, on the other hand, the leakdown test determines it's rings then your bill just went way up! You will be pulling and rebuilding the engine or finding a replacement.

As for the rest of your list, repair or replace parts as they fail. Why replace functioning parts? I travel from Guatemala City in Central America to Canada and back each year and I only replace parts that are failing. I also carry spare belts, hoses, a "U" joint a selection of seals and other consumables. If I am concerned about some particular part then I might buy a spare but if it shows ANY sign of failure it gets replaced.

Ok, so that jogs my memory a bit... My buddy had mentioned replacing the rings and the VALVE SEALS... That's what it was. What may have lead him to say that is that it appears as if oil has leaked into the exhaust. The leak down test, I've never heard of and is a good tip... just what I was looking for, some sort of diagnostic test that I might be able to administer... As far as what's going on, it's just the leak at what seems to be the head gasket... May be no reason to resurface... just replace the head gasket???
Leak down test... any useful threads offering some sort of guidance? What type of discription would one enter when looking for rings on sor per say (excuse my ignorance) Are they head rings, valve rings, wedding rings, magic rings... I don't know. Same for valve seals, are they just valve seals? I'm going to look right now!

Thanks

 

[gnavarroo]

If the head gasket is leaky, get a new OEM head gasket and have the head milled true. And since it will be out, have the shop (or you could do it) give it a valve job and replace the valve stem seals. I think that if you call Cdan he has a "head job gasket set".

I would take a look at the wheel bearings in the front hubs. They are easy to re-pack and often people over look them.

Flush the PS pump like this:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1272091.html

When you do this, get a piece of old hose that is long enough to run down to the ground level and put a coffee can there to catch all that oil. You will avoid a large mess.

My pump was making noise and I used this method and now it is quiet again. I replaced with synthetic ATF since it is less than a quart.

Good luck.

Hey good link on the PS pump... That will be my next project, once I get the manifold but back in since I have to be able to run the engine! I just hope that its a matter of putting the correct fluid in. The PO was a bit of a goof, who knows what's in there.
Thanks

GN

 

[cruiser_guy]

Ok, so that jogs my memory a bit... My buddy had mentioned replacing the rings and the VALVE SEALS... That's what it was. What may have lead him to say that is that it appears as if oil has leaked into the exhaust. The leak down test, I've never heard of and is a good tip... just what I was looking for, some sort of diagnostic test that I might be able to administer... As far as what's going on, it's just the leak at what seems to be the head gasket... May be no reason to resurface... just replace the head gasket???
Leak down test... any useful threads offering some sort of guidance? What type of discription would one enter when looking for rings on sor per say (excuse my ignorance) Are they head rings, valve rings, wedding rings, magic rings... I don't know. Same for valve seals, are they just valve seals? I'm going to look right now!

Thanks

The leak down test is something that a shop can do for you. It will tell you if the rings need doing. By rings we mean piston rings. To do the piston rings you need to pull the pistons out of the engine, basically an engine rebuild by the time you've gotten that deep into it.

Valve seals keeps the oil from leaking down the valve guides and into the intake/exhaust manifolds and cylinders. I'd bet this is you problem but do a leakdown test so you KNOW. It generally requires removing the cylinder head and normally you'd do a valve job while your at it.

As for the front wheel bearings and knuckles. If there is a large amount of grease around the front knuckles and/or oil runs out when the hub locking handles are removed then you need to do a knuckle rebuild which will include a wheel bearing repack as well.

 

[Tinker]

If you do the top end (valves & seals) it will put more pressure on the rings. If you to the top end & rings, it will put more pressure on the rod & main bearings. If you do all of this, it puts extreme pressure on your time & money budgets.

It often works fine until you start fixing it.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.